September Tips for the Garden 2009

The Best Time of the Year is NOW!!!

When I was a kid, I loved summer - no school, warm sunshine and lots of fun and mischief to get into. Now that I am a Grandma, my season preferences have also matured. Over the years, I have come to enjoy all the offerings of fall. The cool, crisp mornings that gives way to warm days and starry nights. Fall color in Missouri is exceptional with the turning of leaves on trees - colors so vivid and alive that they jump out of the landscape. Driving past fields of pumpkins gets the kids excited that Halloween candy is yet to come. The treat of eating sweet grapes fresh off the vine and juicy apples plucked from the trees. And of course, fall sports begin soon.

There is no better time of year than this abundant season to catch your bearings, reevaluate the year, enjoy the harvest and relax. It is also the best time to take a few moments to invest in your home. You can do many simple tasks now that save you time in the spring when you are twice as busy.

PLANT, PLANT, PLANT
Fall in Missouri is the ideal time of year to plant all kinds of things from cool-season vegetables to turf grasses, and especially shrubs, evergreens or deciduous trees. Yet, when it comes to planting, many gardeners only think of the spring. Why is fall such an ideal time to plant? First, the warm soil in the fall helps encourage root growth. The roots continue to grow through our mild winters becoming well established by the spring. This makes fall plantings much better equipped to handle our heat and drought once summer finally arrives. In addition, our fall and spring rains help do the work in establishing your plants, which reduces the care responsibilities and increases your success rate. There are also fewer pests and disease problems to attack your plant while it is young.

When fall arrives, I want to see bright oranges, vibrant yellows, and fiery reds. These fall colors bring life back to our landscapes after the summer sun has faded most of the blooms. The natural turning of leaves into their disguised color of glory brings a new energy to our yards and awakens our senses. Nowadays, you can find selections of trees and shrubs especially bred for fall color. There is no reason to have humdrum containers and flowerbeds during fall when there are Garden Mums and Fall/Winter Pansies to replace our burnt out summer annuals. Fall cool season plants known as Fall Magic are also great additions to beautiful fall containers and beds. Home decorating in fall is great fun also by adding pumpkins, corn stalks, gourds and other harvest items to the landscape or porch décor.

Fall bulbs is another subject you should consider at this time. You will find the best selection now, and you have until Christmas to get them into the ground for spring blooming. Bulbs need 10 weeks of cold weather to create their magnificent show. Many varieties and colors are popping up in this category of plants as well. I will talk more about bulbs in the October “Tips for the Garden” article.

THE POST SEASON WRAP UP
One of the best-kept secrets to the most lavish landscapes is autumn restoration. Just a few garden chores done in the fall will lead to spring and summer pay-offs that are well worth the work.

Things to do now include:
Pull Weeds: Clean up your yard by pulling weeds. Then apply a pre-emergent such as Preen containing Trifluran in the landscape beds. This will keep your yard looking nice and weed free for months to come.
Fertilize: It is important to fertilize your evergreens and conifers at this time because their root systems continue to grow throughout the late fall and even into the winter until ground frost appears. An application of Osmocote or plants spikes is ideal for this chore. The plants take up these nutrients and are ready to explode when the spring growing season arrives.
Prepare Your Lawn: Were you disappointed in your lawn this year? Well, now is the time to prepare your lawn for next spring! Aerate and de-thatch it if the soil is compacted. This will allow the soil to drain better and give it much needed oxygen. It is a good time to seed lawns as well as fertilize them. Seeding in early fall will give the roots plenty of time to become established before winter. Fertilize with a winter type fertilizer in late fall to build nutrients up in the root system. This will keep your lawn from going into the winter hungry stage, and it will help it take off much faster this spring.

Enjoy the cool crisp air and I will …...See you in the Garden
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

August Tips for the Garden 2009

August… besides vacations, other activities that will pull you away from your list of gardening duties are fairs, festivals, family outings, and back to school preparations. It really is a good thing that August is a slow month for working in your landscape.

Your main tasks for this month both begin with the letter W. Weeding and watering. Both tasks are self-explanatory. However, I feel the need to explain them to some extent. It is important to stay on top of the weeds. If you let them get ahead of you and they go to seed, you are going to have hundreds more to deal with this fall and next spring. Spraying weeds with an herbicide such as Roundup is one of the easiest ways to rid of weeds. When using herbicides be sure to read and follow all label directions thoroughly. They are written for your protection. Also, be very careful when spraying around the plants that you want to grow in your landscape. It generally is best to pull weeds that are growing in and immediately around your desirable plants, and spray those that are “in the open”. As far as watering goes, most plants will survive on 1” of water a week. A rain gauge will help measure this.

Bugs, they really bug me, and some of them can really mess up your plants. Before you grab that bottle of insecticide, run outside, and spray every bug in sight, it is important that you identify the bug that is bugging you. Most insecticides can’t tell the difference between a beneficial insect like a honey bee and the destructive spider mite. Therefore, it is important that you identify what insect you are trying to kill and the best method to do it. You can collect some samples of your bug to bring to a garden center for Identification, but please, put them in a Ziploc bag and seal it before you do. This way the staff can safely examine and identify the pest without passing the problem on to their own plant stock. Once they identify the bug, the garden center staff can give you advice on the best way to control it.

Mowing the lawn is another task that continues in August. Due to the usually hot and dry conditions that are the norm in August, you may be able to space your mowing times further apart. That is unless you have an irrigation system to keep your lawn growing vigorously.

If you are thinking about a new addition to your landscape this fall, now is the time to talk to your favorite landscape designer. Your designer can discuss your needs with you, design the changes or new additions, and get you on the schedule for a fall installation.

If you tried your hand at seasonal vegetable or square foot gardening this spring, here are a few ways you can enjoy a fall garden. Carry tomatoes, peppers and basil plants over in your fall garden. Direct sow beets, radishes, peas, and spinach now where other spring crops such as broccoli and cauliflower have come and gone for this year. Replant nursery starts of broccoli and cauliflower.

Last but not least, take care of yourself. In the heat that is referred to as August, it is easy to over exert yourself. Drink plenty of fluids and rest in the shade as needed.

See you next month……….in the garden
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

July Tips for the Garden 2009

I, for one, cannot believe it is the first of July already. This year is really flying by. This is the month for picnics, vacations, family reunions, and for just enjoying the outdoors in general. One of the tasks to take care of this month is weeding. If you put a pre-emergent weed control product in your landscape beds in March or April, you are due for a second application now. There are two reasons for this. First, most of the pre-emergent products that are available to the homeowner have a short life span, up to 60 days. The second reason is due to all of the rain we have had. However, there are many benefits to the very adequate rainfalls this year. One of them is the ease with which some normally difficult weeds can be pulled. So take time to clean up your landscape beds and apply a pre-emergent as soon as possible.

The long hot days of summer are stressful to every living creature, including all your plants. If you are tired of the endless task of keeping your plants watered, it is time to think about adding mulch to your beds.

I know that hotter weather is just ahead, so do yourself and your plantings a huge favor and apply mulch. If you have beds that have never been mulched, add 3” around all annuals, perennials, roses, trees and shrubs. Top dress previously mulched beds with an additional inch of fresh mulch. Not only does mulch hold in moisture, relieving you of some of your watering tasks, it also keeps the soil cooler, so your plants will be less heat-stressed. An added bonus is that weed seeds have a difficult time germinating when buried in mulch, reducing the time you spend weeding.

One of the most common questions that we receive at this time of year is, “How much do I water my ______?” I will try to explain some basic guidelines here:

Vegetables and Bedding Plants planted in the ground: established plants need at least one inch of water per week, more when bearing fruit. Check the soil around the plants, when it is dry one inch down, it’s time to water.

Container Gardens and Hanging Baskets: check your containers every day for water. Either test the soil by touch or lift the pot. Most baskets and many containers will need to be watered once, or even twice a day, depending on the weather. I suggest you fertilize once a week.

Perennials: newly planted perennials need daily watering until established, at least one to two weeks, depending on weather. After they show signs of new growth, apply a one inch per week rule.

Trees and Shrubs: newly planted trees and shrubs should be watered every 4-5 days for the entire first year after planting, unless rainfall is abundant. Place the end of your hose next to the base of the plant and let the water trickle very slowly for about two hours. This will allow the root zone to become thoroughly saturated.

Established Lawns: your lawn should be watered when the grass blades don’t bounce back after being walked on. One inch of water per week should keep your lawn green and healthy. It is best to water early in the morning, before the heat of the day. This keeps evaporation to a minimum, and allows plenty of time for the grass to dry before nightfall, which will help prevent fungus problems.

Newly Seeded or Sodded Lawns: for better germination, I suggest you mulch grass seed with straw as soon as it is planted. Once seed has germinated or sod has been laid, they must not be allowed to dry out. Water daily with a sprinkler until there is good growth. Early morning is again the best time. Once established, go back to the one inch per week rule.

Water Gardens: also require an occasional addition of water. Check your pond weekly and add water as needed. Water plants have variable depth requirements, so you need to keep the water levels consistent.

So continue to enjoy your outdoor spaces and make relationships with your plants! They can give you so much in return!

See you in the Garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

June Tips for the Garden 2009

Let’s talk PERENNIALS! June is National Perennial Gardening Month. The 2009 Perennial Plant Symposium will be held in St Louis this year on July 19-21. They are expecting hundreds of visitors to tour gardens and garden centers around the region to see what we have to offer in the Midwest. That is pretty exciting! Perennials are plants that grow and flower every year, and only need to be planted once! They die back to the ground in the fall, but the roots remain alive and will produce new foliage in the Spring. A wide range of sizes, flower colors and blooming times are available to fit any size garden. Most perennials are considered low maintenance and just need some general care to keep them happy and healthy.

It is important to choose plants that are appropriate to your garden site. You need to know whether it is a sun or shade garden. Full sun plants can be in areas with six or more hours of sunlight every day, four to six hours is partly sunny, and four hours or less is a shade garden. Remove any grass or weeds from the area you wish to plant. Good drainage is essential for successful plants. Amend the soil with Missouri Botanical Garden Compost, also known as Black Gold, now locally available. This will help improve drainage and aeration. Prepare the bed to a depth of 18” to allow for maximum root development. Fertilizer can be mixed into the soil prior to planting.

When planting, dig the hole as deep and twice as wide as the container it is currently growing in. Loosen the root ball and tease the roots so they will grow outward. The plant should be set at the same depth as they were growing in the container. After filling the hole back in with soil/compost mixture, water thoroughly and apply Fertilome Root Stimulator for plant success. Read the plant tags for spacing recommendations because many will spread more than their current size. Don’t be afraid to mix textures.

Perennials should receive 1-2” of water each week to develop a deep root system. A soaker hose works well for this purpose and saves water usage. Fertilize in Early Spring when new growth begins. During the growing season, fertilize once a month until the end of July. This will help the plants harden off for winter. Mulch should be applied after planting to help hold in moisture and reduce weeds. Apply 2” over the soil, leaving 2-3” of space around the base of the plant. Do not smother the crowns of shallow rooted plants. Additional mulch applied in winter is also recommended, especially for new plantings.

The art of deadheading is removing the faded, spent flowers on a plant. It will help lengthen the bloom season of many plants as well as improves the appearance of the plant. Some perennials with attractive seedpods such as Rudbeckia, Sedum, and Ornamental Grasses can be left alone. Once the initial display of flowering has ended, cut back the entire plant by two-thirds. This will help promote additional blooms.

I hope this information gives you the desire to plant some perennial color and texture in your yard! There has been a “Perennial of the Year” named by the Perennial Plant Association since 1991. These varieties are tried and true plants. You may check out the list at http://www.perennialplant.org/.

Now in closing, let’s discuss several other tips for the month of June. Soaker hoses and Raindrip irrigation systems make the most efficient use of water during dry times. Check out the systems available. Continue spraying roses with fungicide to prevent black spot. Mow lawns frequently enough so you don’t have to remove more than 1/3 of the total height of grass per mowing. There is no need to remove grass clippings from the lawn unless they are excessive. Prune flowering shrubs after they have bloomed. Hand prune or shear evergreens now. Watch for bagworms AND JAPANESE BEETLES. Milky Spore, Grub killer, and Japanese Beetle traps are available to eradicate Japanese Beetles. For bagworms, use insecticide with the pest listed on the label or hand pick them if the numbers are light.

Plant pumpkin seeds now to have Jack-o-lanterns for Halloween. Stop harvesting asparagus when the spears become thin. Repeat plantings of corn and beans to extend the harvest season. As soon as cucumber and squash vines start to “run,” begin spray treatments of Permethrin to control cucumber beetles and squash vine borers.

Enjoy your harvest………………………….see you in the garden.
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

May Tips for the Garden 2009

Gardeners, start your containers!! Spring has sprung! The weather is beginning to turn warmer and the sun is beginning to hang around a little more each day. Now is the time to plant warm season annuals and vegetables. I want to focus on veggie garden containers this month. Even small space gardeners can grow enough nutritious produce to prepare a few meals, supplement your diet, and save some bucks. With a little planning and attention, container gardens can produce like mini farms.

Almost any vessel can be used as a container, but it must have drainage holes that allow water to freely flow through the pot. Most veggies only need 8” of soil depth. Trays and smaller containers work fine for lettuce, radishes, spinach, and peppers. Root crops like carrots and onions, and large plants like most tomatoes and squash, require containers larger than 16 inches in diameter. Generally as a rule, bigger is better for root growth and overall vigor.

When growing veggies in containers, packaged potting mixes are typically the best choice to use for a planting medium. Using garden soil in containers is never ideal. Packaged potting mixes are lightweight, moisture retentive, and well aerated. In addition, they do not harbor any fungi, bacteria, insects, or weed seeds that would cause problems later.


Sunlight, not space, is probably the biggest limiting factor in urban environments. Without at least six hours of sun a day, it will be tough to grow quality vegetables. Crops need a lot of solar energy to make nutritious fruits, seeds, and leaves. Southern exposure is best, but six hours from any direction should be sufficient. To avoid leaning or uneven ground, rotate the containers weekly. Use wire cages or other sturdy supports to protect large plants like tomatoes, beans, peas, and squash.

Regular watering is crucial when you grow in containers because there is a limited soil mass for storing water. During the peak of summer heat, gardeners may need to water daily to keep plants growing at full potential. A drip irrigation system allows you to water automatically, and with a timer, you can even water containers while you’re away. However, the best option for vacation watering is always a reliable neighbor. Vegetables grown in containers also need regular fertilizing. Follow the label instructions, and make sure the container is well drained or plants may suffer from high salt levels due to fertilizer buildup. Some gardeners combine the two tasks and simply water with a quarter-length fertilizer solution once a week.

If plants don’t appear vigorous and healthy, check them closely because disease and pest infestations can quickly get out of hand. If caught early, most are easy to treat. Check the undersides of leaves for insects. Many of them can be picked off or sprayed with a strong stream of water. Some pests require other treatments. Natural insecticides are very popular with home gardeners. Always read insecticide labels to make sure the product is compatible with food crops, and follow the directions carefully.

When looking for plants, look for vigorous young seedlings with bushy growth. Check to make sure each seedling is securely anchored in the six-pack or pot, which implies a well-established root system. Dip the seedling in a bucket of water to moisten the root ball, tease out any circling roots, and plant it at the same depth it was previously growing. (Tomatoes are an exception to the planting depth rule because they can be planted with the bare stem several inches below the ground, and roots will form along the stem.)

Some crops like lettuce, beets, and carrots, are best grown from seed. Simply follow the instructions on the packet. Be sure to thin sprouts to the recommended spacing. Thinning is a ruthless task, but fortunately most veggie sprouts can be used in salads and other dishes for a spring treat.

If you have space to do a small raised bed garden in place of containers, check out http://www.squarefootgardening.com/ for a complete listing and schedule to produce a plentiful harvest for a family of four. Dig in and see how great and beneficial veggie gardening is!

Enjoy the season,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald