12/6/11

Garden Solutions - December 2011

The month of December brings the holiday season and warm thoughts of family, friends and community. I would like to say “Thank You” and I wish you and yours a “Blessed Holiday Season” with all the best in the New Year! Furthermore, fall will turn into winter this month. With the addition of fire pits in our outdoor rooms, evenings outdoors can still be enjoyable sampling hot chocolate or cider with friends around the blaze of a comfortable warm fire. You can even gather the kids for the making of s’mores! Enjoy the crisp cool weather.

It may not always be the most comfortable time to be planting anything in your landscape, but it is a great time for the plants. Trees and shrubs are completely dormant now, so the concept of transplant shock does not apply. However, you do need to treat any new plantings the same now as you would if it were the middle of summer. New plantings need to be thoroughly watered in regardless of the weather conditions. If it is below freezing but the ground is not frozen, go ahead and plant, taking care to backfill the hole with as loose a soil mix as you can. As soon as the temperatures are back, above freezing go back to your new plantings and water them in. If you have spring bulbs that you have not planted in the ground yet, you need to make that a priority. A little bone or blood meal placed over the planting areas will help keep the squirrels away from your bulbs. They are also great additives for your bulbs.

Leaf removal is the next task. I had all of the leaves collected out of my yard a week ago, only to see a lot of my neighbors leaves come to visit my yard, with the help of the wind we have had. The point I am trying to make is that leaf removal is an ongoing task. Composted or mulched leaves are great as flower bed coverings for winter and a wonderful addition to your compost piles. So recycle your leaf collections and put them to good work in the garden!

Trimming or pruning of some of your trees and shrubs can be done at this time. Basically it breaks down like this, if the tree or shrub flowers before the 1st of June don’t touch it now. If it flowers after the 1st of June, you can safely cut it now. Resist the urge to cut back everything. Most perennials benefit from a layer of mulched dead leaves. If you had any fungus or disease problems in an area, go ahead and cut back the plants in that area and rake up the debris. Mulch any plants that need extra protection, like those hardy banana trees! Keep your ornamental grasses up until mid-March (I’ll let you know when it’s time to cut them back).

Roses: a winter “hair-cut” can be given, but don’t cut them back all the way. Some winters can be so cold that the roses could get winter die-back which would need to be removed in the spring anyway, so plant on your heaviest rose trimming in spring around the first of April. Apply a thick layer (10-12”) of mulch at the base of your roses now.

Lawns: It is still a great time to apply a Winterizer fertilizer to the lawn. This fertilizer will help keep your cool season turf greener, even in the coldest part of the year.

Plants get “chapped lips” too. Cold, dry winter winds and bright winter sun make our skin chapped and unhealthy. Those winds have a similar devastating effect on your plants, which are out in the winds all winter. No wonder your evergreens don’t look so great come spring. This drying effect is called desiccation and is often the most devastating aspect of winter damage on plants in our Midwest region. To fight desiccation, first choose the right plants for windy, dry areas. Especially try to avoid placing broadleaf evergreens, such as azaleas, in places shady in summer but sunny and windy in winter. Second, make sure to water your evergreens well through early December, before the ground freezes and plants cannot “drink” from the soil. Third, mulch your plants for winter to retain soil moisture as well as soil temperature. Fourth, use an anti-desiccant. These products coat leaves and needles to slow down the loss of moisture. One of the best products to use is Wilt Stop by Bonide. This product is a natural polymer that covers plants with a FLEXIBLE coating to lock moisture in the plant tissue. The flexible coating is important to keep on the plants through winter as they bend and sway in the wind. Wilt Stop lasts 45-60 days so apply the first treatment in early December and again in early February.

Here are a few tips on winter houseplant care. When the heat goes on and the daylight becomes shorter, houseplants sometimes begin to yellow and drop their leaves. It may be necessary to move the plants to a different place in the home and to give them different treatment from that given during the summer. Flowering plants need at least half a day of direct sunlight to develop flower buds. Cacti and many succulents require a sunny location, and coleus and crotons need direct sun to maintain the decorative color. The ideal temperatures for foliage plants are 68-70 degrees during the day and slightly lower at night. Flowering plants retain blossoms longer at lower temps. Remember, windowsill locations are much colder during the winter and plants may need to be moved to prevent getting chilled. The amount of water the houseplants need declines during winter, so increase the amount of time between watering. Reduce fertilizing as well: flowering plants should be fertilized half as often and foliage plants should only be fertilized if needed.

Some of the plants in your landscape can help you decorate for the Christmas season as you prune them for next year. Holly and Boxwood can be trimmed now with some of the cuttings used to accent wreaths or live indoor plants. And, some of the inside growth of evergreens such as White Pine, Norway Spruce, Blue Spruce, even some of the seed heads of ornamental grassed can be used to make a harvest wreath or basket for your front door or porch. Talk about recycling! After Christmas, you can take them to your compost bin and make them future fertilizer! Along with these Holiday tips, here are a few other ideas for the month:

• Use caution when spreading salt or calcium on ice or snow packed walks or driveways. Salt can damage lawns and plantings, calcium is much safer to use. Be sure to designate areas to for piling snow from plowing in advance to prevent damage to trees, shrubs and lawns.
• Continue to feed our fine feathered friends and place heated birdbaths with fresh water out for them.
One last task is to remember your tools. Steel and wood don’t like dirt and water. Keep them clean and well oiled and they will serve you for years to come. And gasoline powered tools should also be serviced according to the manufacturers specifications so that they will start for you on the first pull next year.

Again, I wish you and your family a very Blessed Christmas season. Let’s get to work on planning that beautiful garden scene for next year!

See you in the Garden…………..
Sandi Hillermann Mcdonald

10/27/11

Garden Solutions - November 2011

Water is the word of the month!! It is imperative to water your trees & shrubs, especially new plantings. Our fall season has been very dry - following a record heat summer. Even though the foliage is gone, the roots need moisture to build up spring buds and increase root growth. The amount of water needed may be less than when the foliage was on the plants, but water is still very important.

It is sad to watch the garden fading into winter, but at least we don’t have to say goodbye. Spring will return, as naturally as the sun will rise tomorrow morning. All we have to do is get the garden prepped so that it can rest until its renewal a few months from now. Here is a to-do list that will help you prepare your garden for its winter’s nap.

Clean out and cut back. Loads of dead leaves and rotten stalks on plants can harbor disease, even through the winter season. But, don’t cut all your plants back to the ground, and don’t pick up every leaf. It is a great treat to leave some seed heads on plants for the winter birds and ornamental grasses for their winter art in the garden. Leaving some plant stalks to protect the crowns of tender perennials is also beneficial.

Cover up. Mulch is the best winter protection for your plants. Wood mulch is the most common. Mulched leaves will also work. Wait until the ground has frozen slightly, usually around Thanksgiving for us, to ensure the plants are in their dormancy state. If the snow falls before you get the opportunity to get the job done, mulch over the snow. Some woody perennials and shrubs may benefit from soil mounded around the base. These plants, in our area include, roses, crape myrtle, butterfly bushes to name a few. Tender shrubs may need to be screened or wrapped with burlap or something similar, not plastic.

Dig in. There is still time to plant some garden jewels this month. Trees, shrubs and plants that have a root ball larger than a gallon can be put into the ground. In addition, now is the time to plant those spring beauties we call bulbs. To enjoy the beauty and bright colors of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils as well as crocus and alliums, plant them NOW. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks of cold soil temperatures. Therefore, in our area you can plant up to the Christmas season, as long as frost hasn’t built up in the soil.

Write down. You will find that a garden log or journal will be very helpful next spring when you’re trying to identify those first tentative green shoots and wondering whether you divided that Hosta plant last fall or should you do it now. Draw a basic diagram of each bed, noting the plants and adding photos where you can. A little extra effort with your journal will pay off next spring.

Here are a few other duties to think about this month of November. Continue mowing lawn grasses as long as they keep growing, 3” is a good height. Apply Winterizer fertilizer to lawns to strengthen plant stems and roots for winter growth and early spring green up.

Cover garden ponds with bird or pond netting to prevent leaves from fouling the water. Oxygen depletion from rotting organic matter can cause a winterkill of pond fish. Take steps to prevent garden ponds from freezing solid in winter. Using a floating garden heater in the pond will lessen the chance of ice damage.

Set up bird feeders. Birds also appreciate a source of unfrozen drinking water during the winter. Use one of the many styles of birdbath heaters or heated birdbaths available at garden centers. When feeding the birds, set up a variety of feeder types to get the best assortment of birds to come to your yard. Tube feeders are good for songbirds, platform feeders are good for cardinals and larger birds, and suet is a great source of fat and energy for woodpeckers and all bird types.

Enjoy the antics of wildlife and the beauty of plant art in the garden during this upcoming winter season. I will give you more to look forward to in the winter garden in December. Until then, Happy Thanksgiving to all and enjoy the outdoors as much as possible.

See you in the garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

10/3/11

Garden Solutions - October 2011


Wow! What a welcome feeling to have cooler days and lower humidity. This is truly a beautiful time of year. It is a time of year we want to get back outside, reclaim our yards and gardens, and enjoy the fresh air. It is time for fall barbeques and bonfires and hayrides. Fall is the perfect time to evaluate the garden for improvement to your curb appeal, and it is the perfect planting time. The cooler crisp days of October are great for these following garden tips:

• Lawn seeding should be finished by October 15th this month to insure germination and plant growth yet this fall. Choose a seed mix for your specific lawn area: sun, shade, sun/shade, play, drought, etc. Fescue mixtures are best for durability for our area. Fescue blends are spread at a rate of 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq ft on bare ground and 2-3 lbs. per 1,000 sq ft on a lawn with a 50% stand of grass.
• Be sure to aerate and renovate your yard when over seeding for BEST results. Without these steps, it is like throwing grass seed on to concrete because our soil is so hard now from such a dry summer. Have questions??? Ask the experts at your local garden center.
• Keep leaves raked or blown off of lawns to prevent smothering new grass plants, especially in shady areas.
• Winterize your lawn mowers before storage, by draining gasoline from the tank and the gas line. It is also a great time to sharpen the blades so you will be ready for spring!
• Put a Winterizer type fertilizer on all lawns from mid October through November to promote early spring green growth, and have the best-looking lawn in the neighborhood.
• Now is a good time to apply lime if your soil tests indicate the need. (Acidic soils require lime, a pH of 6.8 or below.) Use the recommended rate of 50 pounds per 500 square feet per treatment. Free pH testing is available at most independent garden centers.
• YOUR HOME’S CURB APPEAL can be enhanced with pumpkins, gourds, corn stalks, mums, pansies, kale, and the great selection of other plants that are grown for the fall season!! Check out some of the great new selections available today! Ornamental grasses add a lot of texture as well. Let your imagine run wild!
• Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied to control cool season weeds, such as chickweed and henbit now. You can apply either a granular or liquid application to an established lawn.
• The average first frost usually arrives about October 15th to October 20th. A few degrees of frost protection can be gained by covering tender plants with sheets, newspaper, burlap or lightweight fabric row covers. DO NOT USE PLASTIC; this tends to “draw in” the cold temperatures.
• Cannas, Dahlias and Elephant Ears can be dug when frost nips their foliage. Before storing them, allow the plants to dry under cover in an airy frost-free place, such as a carport. Store them in a cool, dry area such as a basement in paper sacks packed with peat moss. Drying bulbs thoroughly will keep them from rotting.
• Plant bulbs now for spring bloom (Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils, Crocus, etc.). Plant bulbs into groupings for a massed effect of spring color. To fertilize them, use bone meal or a complete bulb fertilizer at planting time.
• Bulb container gardens can be planted with a lasagna type planting arrangement (layering of bulbs in potting soil). Check with your garden center for ideas and recipes on this feature.
• October is an excellent month to plant trees, shrubs and perennials. This gives the plants a great start in the warm soil and cool weather of fall with plenty of moisture in the spring to become established before the harsh summer heat and drought arrives. The plants’ roots will continue to develop under ground until frost in the ground literally stops them!
• Continue to water your plants, especially evergreens, since soils are dry. Until the ground freezes, they need moisture for root growth even if they are going dormant. Once a week should be sufficient.
• After perennial and flower beds have been cleaned and raked for winter preparation, refresh them with a bark mulch for the winter months at a depth of 2-3”.
• Towards the end of October, trees should be fertilized and tree spikes at their drip line are a perfect choice. Use one tree spike per one inch of tree trunk diameter. This will make for beautiful foliage next spring! (The diameter of the tree is a measurement found at a cross section of the trunk 12” above the ground)
• Gourds should be harvested when their shells become hard or when their color changes from green to brown.
• DON’T take hummingbird feeders down before mid October. The bird’s biological clock tells them when to migrate south. THEY ARE NOT dependent on us removing the feeders at a certain time! Hummingbirds who have started their migration will appreciate finding your feeders along the way.

Enjoy your yard and garden in every season!

Time to go……….See you in the Garden…………..
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

9/9/11

Garden Solutions - September 2011

The kids are back in school and off to college, and it is time to get back to work in the yard and garden since you may have put off your outdoor living projects this summer because of bonding, vacations and sports programs … or hot, dry weather.

Our yards definitely DID suffer this summer. Thank goodness, the hottest month of the year is now behind us. Well, there is no better time to renovate and reseed than this month of September. In fact, the perfect window of opportunity for yard growth is August 15th- October 15th. Even though it may be hot and dry, it is the perfect time of year to aerate and over seed established yards. The process should be done as follows: Cut the lawn a little shorter than normal, 2-3 inches. Then run over the yard with a core aerator (this machine pulls plugs out of the ground about the size of your little finger). This whole process works best after a good rain or a deep watering. The core aeration process helps with the soil aeration, lessens soil compaction and makes for better, stronger grass root systems. Now, run a renovator over the area. This machine slices the ground with many little teeth and will break down the dirt clods from the core aeration process and bring up any dead thatch in the area. Now you are ready to sow your grass seed (use a 50% spread rate for a 50% stand of grass) and add fertilizer (a starter type fertilizer that is high in phosphorus is best). For a 50% stand of grass or less you will not need additional cover such as straw. If you are over seeding bare areas or new lawn areas, you will need to straw these areas to hold moisture for seed protection. For the specific grass seed type, shop for seed specific to your area of need: shade, sun, part-shade and sun, etc. There are special grass seed mixes made up for our Mid-Missouri region that perform beautifully here so, make sure you check that out for guaranteed success.

You can then re-fertilize and add a Winterizer fertilizer to the entire area in late October or November. This whole process will “promise” you a beautiful strong lawn for spring of next year. Water is, of course, essential for this growth if Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate. New lawn installations are also best at this time of year as well.

You need to continue thinking about watering during this month … and remember that there are ways to make it economical and easy, just ask the experts. The wildlife in your yard, as well as all new and established plantings, needs our help this year as we have experienced several exceptionally dry summers.

Now turn your focus to Fall Decorations … and change the Curb Appeal of your yard by giving it a face lift for fall. Change out those summer containers and flower beds with fall bedding plants that work long into the fall season, which in our case here in MO can be thru mid Nov. You should be able to find such plants as pansies, ornamental cabbage, kale, cool season annuals, ornamental grasses, hardy garden mums and MUCH more. Don’t forget to add in straw, corn stalks, pumpkins and gourds to give your displays a complete look. Extend the look of your outdoor room and enjoy the fall season outdoors.

Fall bulbs are available now and should be considered for spring color in your garden! So start to think ahead to next year’s blooms, and get in on the action now.

For additional information about fall garden tips, check out this website: www.hillermann.com.

Time to go……….See you in the Garden…………..
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

8/3/11

Garden Solutions - August 2011


August brings us the dog days of summer... there is no doubt about that. If you have not started enjoying “Outdoor Living,” it is NOT TOO LATE. With the price of gas lately, it is only understandable that more and more people are retreating to their own backyards and spending vacations at home this year. So, forget the stress of planning and traveling and enjoy your own “Stay-cation!” Our designers are here to help you with ideas that will turn your yard into an outdoor oasis. Look for inspiration at every “independent lawn and garden retailer.” Add patios, walkways, walls, water, hammocks and more!

Be sure to visit the Washington Town & Country Fair this year (August 3rd-7th). Don’t miss these two educational areas: the Agri-Land booth (near the livestock barns) and Hillermann’s “Gardening Solutions” (near the North Entrance Gate). Both of these booths offer hands on learning opportunities (for kids and adults) and helpful handout sheets on outdoor activities and gardening!

Here are additional tips for the heat and drought period of August:
  • It is not too late to put up Japanese Beetle traps to catch those pesky critters in a natural, safe way.
  • You can still apply lawn insecticides until August 15 to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.
  • Compost or till under residues and debris from harvested crops.
  • Prop up the branches of your fruit trees that are threatening to break under the weight of a heavy crop.
  • Keep deadheading your spent annual and perennial flowers for continued blooms into fall.
  • Feed hardy garden mums and asters for the last time this season.
  • Monitor plants for spider mite activity. Hose affected plants off with a forceful spray of water, or spray with Bonide Eight (with Permethrin). To test for spider mites, hold a piece of white paper under the leaves. Tap on the leaves and then run your hand over the piece of white paper. If you see evidence of red streaks on the paper, you have an infestation of spider mites!
  • Roses should receive no further nitrogen fertilizer after the end of August to prevent the production of late tender growth that could be damaged by fall frosts.
  • Deep root water established trees around the drip line (this is where the edge of the branches stop) to help alleviate stress on trees going into winter.
  • Soak shrubs periodically during dry spells with enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches.
  • Toward the end of August, dormant lawns should be soaked to encourage strong fall growth.
  • Prune to shape hedges for the last time this season.
  • Once bagworms reach full size, insecticides are ineffective. Pruning off or pulling and burning or discarding of large bags provides better control for next year.
  • Watch for fall webworm activity. Apply Fertilome bagworm and Tent Caterpillar Spray when webs are first spotted. Rip open the web bag before spraying for best control.
  • Cultivate Strawberries and apply weed preventer immediately, after fertilizing.
  • Protect ripening fruits from birds by covering plants with bird netting. (This is a poly type product readily available at Garden Centers).
  • Pinch the growing tips of gourds once the adequate fruit set amount is achieved. This directs energy into the ripening fruits, rather than vine production.
  • Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower transplants should be set out for the fall garden. Also, sow seeds of lettuce, radish, beans, beets, spinach and turnips now. (Spinach may germinate better if the seeds are refrigerated.)
  • Lawn renovation and over-seeding time is right around the corner. I will discuss this more in September.
  • For additional information about garden tips for summer and all seasons, check out this website www.hillermann.com.

Time to go... See you in the Garden!!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

7/5/11

Garden Solutions - July 2011

Tip for the month of July—Sit Back and Relax!! For many of us, the 4th of July date marks the beginning of the entertainment season. And what a season it is! We plan, we phone, we shop, we decorate, we mow, we clean, we check supplies, we shop again, we cook, we carry lawn chairs and coolers outside, and we fret about the weather. When the guests arrive it all starts over. Pouring, serving, clearing, fetching, and recycling can fill hours, if we let them. So part of the planning needs to include ways to have some time for you to sit back and enjoy your party, too. Maybe an e-mail sent to everyone with one push of the button can replace two hours of phone calls. Making your event a potluck will eliminate much of the shopping and cooking. Be sure to have everyone bring their own beverages, table service and lawn chairs. And finally, don’t mow. Your lawn will do better with foot traffic if it is left a little bit longer. With all that settled, all that’s left for you to do is enjoy a good time! Now that we have talked about having parties and enjoying your yard and garden at home, let’s get down to other tasks at hand for July.

It’s not too late to plant shrubs, perennials and annual flowers, but you will need to give them a little TLC for the summer. If you haven’t been pinching back your garden mums all summer, cut them back by half as soon as possible and feed them. This task should not be done much after the 4th of July. This will help them to grow bushier and bloom in the fall when anticipated until Thanksgiving for late blooming varieties. Avoid applying weed killers, insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers to plants when the temperatures are above 90 degrees. Spray early in the morning when temperatures are below 85.

If Japanese beetles are attacking your plants, you have several options for controlling them, from handpicking (not my favorite) to trapping (the safest) or spraying them. Japanese beetle traps are readily available and do a fantastic job of eradicating the problem naturally. Remove infected leaves from roses and pick up fallen leaves. Continue fungicidal sprays as needed on these beauties. Keep deadheading spent annual and perennial flowers for continued bloom. Keep weeds from making seeds now. This will mean fewer weeds next year.

Hot, dry weather is ideal for spider mite development. Damage may be present even before the webs are noticed. With spider mite damage, leaves may be speckled above and yellowed below. Evergreen needles appear dull gray-green to yellow to brown. Spray with permethrin to control this critter. Sweet corn is ripe when the silks turn brown. Blossom –end rot occurs on tomato and peppers when soil moisture is uneven and the calcium level in the soil is not right. Liming the garden will help these issues next year.

Water conservation is of the utmost importance during our dry summer months. These following simple tips can save time and money. Water where it counts, water at the roots, not the leaves. Drip irrigation systems in landscape beds do wonders for water conservation. Drip irrigation systems are easy for the homeowner to install. Trees and shrubs would also benefit from a deep root watering this time of year. You can use a deep root feeder (without the fertilizer) for this purpose. Water them around the drip line of the tree for best success. Doing this every 2-3 weeks will keep your trees stress free. Water frequently enough to prevent wilting. When you mow your grass, cut it less frequently and at a higher level. Cutting it short promotes growth, and growth promotes water consumption. Longer grass blades shade the soil and conserve moisture. Plant drought tolerant, native plants where possible. Native plants are becoming more readily available in nursery settings.

Check your plant containers daily for water. Put your finger at least one inch down in the soil, if it is dry, water thoroughly. Hanging baskets will need a drink at least once a day, sometimes even twice a day, depending on the weather. Provide water in the garden for birds during dry weather and they will repay you with wonderful antics and bird song. Enjoy nature and your gardens this summer. You won’t regret it.

See you in the Garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

6/1/11

Garden Solutions - June 2011



This month I will begin with a reminder that June is Perennial Gardening Month. Perennials are herbaceous plants that die back to the ground in the winter but return year after year to dazzle us with color.

The Perennial Plant Association’s “Perennials of the Year” (proven performance perennials that have been named since 1991) are usually great choices for anyone’s garden, as they are tried and true varieties. We are in planting zone 5, so it is always important to check that bit of information as well, on all plants you plan to leave from year to year in your yard.

Here are some quick tips to Fabulous Perennials: Begin by preparing the soil, then choose plants carefully, sun vs. shade, etc. Purchase plants that can establish in one season and space perennials to give them room to grow. Fertilize, mulch, control weeds and insects. Clean up your beds at the end of each season and enjoy!!!

Well, June is also the month of graduations, weddings, vacations, Father’s Day, and the beginning of summer. This is the month that we all begin to spend more of our free time outdoors, enjoying our gardens and the fruits of our labor from the last several months. If all of you have kept up with your tasks, then this month should be easy. However, if you are like me, June will be a month you get caught up.

The first task that we need to do this month is to get the spring flowering trees and shrubs trimmed. Flowering crabapples, serviceberry, dogwoods, magnolias, lilacs and viburnums all set their buds for next years’ flower on the new growth they develop this year. These plants should be pruned now to encourage new growth and therefore flower buds for next year. I recommend that you complete the pruning of these plants by early this month.

Here are other tips for the garden for June:
• Watch for the outbreak of bagworms on garden plants, especially junipers. Then spray affected plants with Permethrin sold under the label ‘Eight’.
• Deadhead bulbs and spring perennials as blossoms fade.
• Repeat plantings of corn and beans to extend the harvest season.
• Fertilize Zoysia grass now while it is actively growing.
• Renovate strawberries after harvest. Mow the rows; thin out excess plants; remove weeds; fertilize and apply mulch for weed control.
• Spray roses with a fungicide to prevent black spot disease and fertilize monthly.
• Continue pinching back your garden mums until July 4th to promote full, bushy growth and good fall color.
• Water turf as needed to prevent drought stress, and watch for fungus problems.
• Mow lawns frequently enough to remove no more than one-third the total height per mowing.
• Continue enjoying the antics of the wildlife in your yard and gardens by continuing to supply food and water sources for them.
• Change hummingbird nectar at least weekly to prevent fungus from growing. You can make your own nectar, 1 part sugar to 4 parts water---no food coloring please!
• Rejuvenate your older lilacs by cutting to the ground one third of the largest branches. This will create a fuller, lusher specimen.
• Orioles (if you were lucky enough to keep them around) begin building a gray woven nest; this takes about a week.
• Watch for birds carrying food to their young.
• Gray squirrels begin a second breeding.

Fully enjoy your garden; it is the only true place to connect you to Mother Nature.

See you in the Garden…
Sandi Hillermann McDonald




5/11/11

Garden Solutions - May 2011

Times are changing and everyone is busier then ever; with kids to coach, meetings to attend and work to do. So “coming” home at the end of a day can be even more important to us then ever. Enjoy daylight savings time and extend your living quarters to your yard and garden. Think of your outdoor spaces as an extension of your home. And in doing so, consider the floor, walls, and ceiling per se. Outdoor firepits, grill and bar centers, rugs, clocks, décor and more are available to add a cozy room effect to outdoor living spaces. Adding resting areas is easy to do…hang a hammock in a tree, set a bistro set in the perennial garden, or put benches in your Hosta beds. Then invite friends over and have a cook out. Let the nature in your yard tickle your senses with the sounds of birds, smells of flowers, sound of running water, and splashes of color. Hardscapes can enhance your outdoor rooms by adding a “floor” to your area of enjoyment.

While you are enjoying your yard, and I hope that you are, here are some items to put onto your gardening checklist. Begin planting summer annuals to add color and spice to the landscape, and don’t just stop with the flowerbeds. There are many new introductions in annuals this year that will prove to be very exciting. One worth mentioning is the “NEW” Potunia. This new Petunia variety is a wonderful filler plant as well as a stand alone plant. It comes in a beautiful “orange” as well as red and yellow and they bloom all season long. It thrives in full to part sun. It has a bold beautiful colors.

Container gardening continues to be a trendy thing. The many choices, styles, shapes, and colors of containers make great accent pieces for inside or out. Let your imagination soar and express yourself. Use imaginative containers you pick up at flea markets and auction yards. Learn to mix annuals and perennials for great combinations. Try hostas with begonias and impatiens….or hydrangeas with groundcovers. These containers can make great accent pieces on the front porch, the back deck, in a flower bed, around the pool, or at the end of the driveway. And you can rearrange them as often as you wish. No room for a vegetable garden? Try one in a container. You can enjoy fresh tomatoes easily this way.

Take your houseplants outdoors once the evening temperatures will remain above 50`. Move sun loving plants (hibiscus, gardenias, mandevillas, etc.) gradually to sunny locations, as they have not had full sun in your home and will need to be acclimated to those conditions. Check out the many new varieties of tropical plants available this year.

Plant summer bulbs now and fertilize with bone meal or bulb food. Pinch hardy garden mums back now and continue to do so until July 4th to insure proper fall blooming. Treat slugs in your garden with organic diatomaceous earth. This is a powder product, 100% safe, and is good for the treatment of slugs, ants, fleas and ticks outside, as well as roaches and ants indoors. This organic product is very safe to use and a good one to have on hand. “Natural Gardening” with eco-friendly products is a very “trendy” and SAFE thing to do for your own health as well as the environment. Check out the chemical-free options available to you today. Then sit back and watch your kids and pets enjoy the beautiful outdoors.

Insect problems to watch for this month are pine sawflies, aphids, scale crawlers, cucumber beetles, and grubs, to name a few. Permethrin is the chemical product on the market today that is labeled for indoor and outdoor use. Permethrin will kill a large variety of insects on plants, in the soil, and in the home. It comes in many formulations and strengths. See a professional for questions of use of this product.

Other May tips include:
• Pinch azalea and rhododendron blossoms as the flowers fade.
• Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons with an acid base fertilizer now.
• Don’t remove spring bulb foliage too early or next year’s flower production will decline. Let the foliage die back naturally.
• Plant hardy water lilies now.
• Begin fertilizing annuals now and continue at regular intervals all season long.
• Treat trees with borer problems now with Fertilome Systemic Insecticide Drench.
• Keep bluegrass lawns cut at 3” high, fescue lawns at 3.5” high and zoysia at 2” high.
• Apply post-emergence broadleaf weed controls to the lawn now if needed.
• Begin planting sweet corn, tomato plants, peppers and sweet potatoes as the soil warms up.
• Keep asparagus harvested for continued spear production.
• Remove rhubarb seed stalks as they appear.
• Don’t spray any fruits while in bloom, you may ruin the pollination process.
• Birds eat many insects so attract them to your garden by providing good nesting habitats.
• Herbs planted in average soils need no extra fertilizer. Too much may reduce flavor and
pungency at harvest.
• Watch for fireflies on warm nights. Both adults and larvae are important predators for garden pests.

Until next month,…Enjoy connecting with nature and….see you in the garden….

Sandi Hillermann McDonald
www.hillermann.com

4/20/11

Garden Solutions - April 2011

Vegetable gardening is making a comeback since food has made dramatic price increases over the past year. This is also because of the fact that more and more people are concerned with what they put on the family table. When you grow it yourself, you control what goes in the soil and on the plants, and you get to pick a much broader selection of vegetable varieties. The supermarket may have 2-3 varieties of tomatoes, where you can choose from dozens of varieties to plant yourself. Why are there more varieties available at garden centers? Tomatoes don’t ship well, and they taste a whole lot better home grown. In fact, a tomato from your own garden is the ultimate standard for taste. Some, who grow them annually, never buy them from the supermarket, because they pale in comparison to what they can grow in the summer.

If you’re thinking of growing a vegetable garden this year, you are not alone. If you’re a little timid, there is help available. Start small and expand as your interest and time permits. No summertime garden is complete without tomatoes, and the perfect accompaniment to fresh tomatoes on your table is basil. If your garden has anything this year, consider both. If you want a little more, some bush cucumbers will fit in small gardens, and so will the bush summer squash varieties. Most of these bush varieties can be planted in nontraditional garden areas like flower beds or as a small addition to the landscape. In short, a vegetable garden can find its way into every area of your home’s landscape. Whether it’s confined to its own area, combined into the annual or perennial gardens that you already have, or planted in containers on your deck or patio - it will provide the ultimate in fresh vegetable taste, and the safest vegetables you can produce for your family table.

The lengthening of daylight also seems to brighten peoples’ spirits and relieve some stress as we can now move outdoors and enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer. Therefore, I invite you to go outside and “dig in.” Here are other areas of consideration:
• Remove winter mulch now from your rose bushes. Trim out dead and diseased canes. Cut all other green wood to about 18” on Floribunda and tea rose varieties. A 24-30” height is good on shrub roses.
• Fertilize your roses with a slow release fertilizer and begin fungicide treatments to control black spot disease.
• When Crabapples are in bloom, hardy annuals can be planted.
• Transplant trees, shrubs and perennials early in the month for best success.
• Spots and bare patches in the lawn can still be over seeded if you did not apply a Crabgrass Preventer. During spring there are more issues to be aware of when seeding a lawn rather than in the fall. Talk to a professional about seed choices and procedures.
• Easter lilies can be planted after they finish blooming. Set the bulbs 2-3” deeper then they are in the pot.
• Liquid weed control should be applied this month to control dandelions, henbit and other broadleaf weeds. New grass from seed MUST be mowed 3 times to make it strong enough to withstand weed chemicals.
• Prune spring flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.
• Asparagus and rhubarb harvests begin. Keep your hoe sharp!!
• Start cucumber, squash, cantaloupe and watermelon seeds indoors this month.
• Shrubs such as Crepe Myrtle, Butterfly Bush, and Hardy Hibiscus can be pruned back to green wood this month. REMINDER—that these plants leaf out very late (early May) and should not be considered to have died or be replaced until after Mother’s Day.
• Termites begin swarming. Termites can be distinguished from ants by their thick waists and straight antennae. Ants have slender waists and elbowed antennae.
• Apply Bayer Advance Insect Control this month to control borers in shade trees and shrubs.
• Remove old tree wraps from trees planted last fall so you don’t make a place for insects to harbor.
• Mole young are born in chambers deep underground.
• Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit trees that are in bloom. Bees are in danger and it is very important to be careful around them.
• Ornamental Pear trees need to be sprayed “during” the flowering stage to prevent “Fire Blight” disease.
• Water gardens may be cleaned out and the water changed. Do not scrub the walls since this will remove accumulated beneficial bacteria. Begin adding additional bacteria and barley bales now to begin the natural cycle of pond clean-up.
• Hang out hummingbird feeders the first of this month. Use a solution of 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. Change the solution frequently to keep if from fermenting. Food coloring is not needed nor is it recommended for the hummingbirds.
• The last week of April is a good time to try an early sowing of warm season crops such as green beans, sweet corn, etc. Transplants of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and sweet potatoes can also begin being planted outdoors.
• Container gardening is good choice for flower and vegetable gardening if space is in short supply. It can be done by anyone, anywhere, check it out!!
• “Natural Gardening” is a wave of the future………..keep your family safe and check out what organic options are available to you when gardening this year. There are many.

Well, time is running short…see you in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

3/16/11

Garden Solutions - March 2011


March welcomes ‘Spring’, and it will be met with open arms this year!! This is the month to open up the gardens and get things in shape for the new growing season, which means there is plenty that can be done. To name a few; mowing time is upon us; have you sharpened those mower blades? To keep that lawn looking fantastic, it is time to add Fertilizer with Crabgrass Prevention. Make sure to follow directions and do not try to skimp on the amount of product used, so you get great coverage from the Crabgrass Prevention. If you feel you need to over-seed the lawn, check with the professionals on proper steps for spring treatments.

Clean up those perennial beds and cut down all Liriope and Ornamental Grasses to about 3-5” above the ground. Once this has been done, it is time to re-mulch your shrub and flower beds. Top-dress these areas with a slow release fertilizer as well, such as Osmocote. Do not put mulch or fertilizer too close to the crowns of plants. You could cause either rot or burning of the plant crown.

Nesting boxes for Bluebirds and Purple Martin houses should be put out early this month. Purple Martins return to our area between St. Patrick’s Day and the end of the month. So now is
the time to be prepared. Are you considering doing some vegetable gardening this year? Well there is no better time than now to start those preparations. You can start seed in the house for plants such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. Plant or sow seed for peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, collards, turnips, potatoes, spinach, onion sets, beets, carrots, and parsley outside this month. Set out broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and pansy transplants now. This month is also good to set out strawberries, blueberries, blackberries grapes and other fruiting plants. It is likely we will see an influx of home gardening this year. It can be done in containers on the patio, as square foot gardens, or large plot gardening. There is nothing better than a home grown tomato!! Check out our website for instructions on these items, www/hillermann.com.

Here is a fun project for the family to try --‘Taters in a Basket’. Have you ever tried growing potatoes in tough clay soil? The results are usually less than bad. However, here is the perfect solution for growing great potatoes. Grow them in a pot. Now, whether you’ve got clay soil, live in an apartment, or don’t have a garden at all, you can grow potatoes the ole’ yard boy way. And that’s in a container.

Here is what you will need:
1. The container, I like to use bushel baskets. They breathe well, allow for good drainage, and they look great! However, any container, plastic, wood or clay will work as long as it has good drainage and is at least 14-18 inches wide and at least 10-12 inches deep.
2. Soil-less potting mix works best. Use the good stuff for better results. If you have a compost pile, good compost will work too. Finely shredded is best. People have even used straw and ground leaves.
3. An all purpose garden food such as Osmocote is great.
4. Seed potatoes - these aren’t the ones you buy from the grocery store. They can be found at the garden center and are used specifically for growing potatoes. Do not use potatoes from the produce department at the grocery store; they have been treated with a growth inhibitor to keep them from sprouting.

Fill the bottom of your pot with 2-3 inches of soil-less mix or compost. Take a large seed potato, or a couple medium sized, cut up into pieces that contain the eyes, and evenly distribute those on top of the soil-less mix. You can plant 6-8-10 pieces with eyes per basket. If you’re not sure about the ‘eyes’, you can plant whole potatoes, or cut them in half and plant the halves. Cover with another 3-4 inches of soil-less mix, add the fertilizer and water in thoroughly, and place in the sun. Water as needed, thoroughly moistening the soil, then letting it dry before watering again. Once your potatoes start to grow, water regularly, being careful not to over water, which can cause the tubers to rot.

When your potatoes are growing, you have a couple options: 1) As the potatoes grow, keep adding soil-less mix or compost to the container, keeping about 4 inches of foliage showing. Continue this process until the container is filled to within 1 inch of the top of the basket. 2) Let the foliage grow until it’s approximately 3-4 inches above the basket, and then fill in around the foliage with your soil-less mix or compost unit the basket is full. Now you’re set for growing potatoes! Let your potatoes grow all summer. Don’t forget to keep them fed too. Come late summer or fall when the foliage starts to yellow, cut the foliage off, dump out your soil, and you’ll have a basket full of taters! It is that easy. Good Luck!!

Now it is time to go, so we will “See you in the garden!”
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

2/3/11

Garden Solutions - February 2011

You would think that we gardeners would spend the winter months curled up by the fire, perusing seed and bulb catalogs and daydreaming about our gardens in the warmer months ahead. That is well and good from about Christmas mid-January and then we start to get the itch - you know the one - our fingernails are just too clean and it’s time to get our hands in the soil. A great way to satisfy your green thumb during the winter is to tackle two classic indoor gardening projects: terrariums and, topiaries.

Terrariums
As temperatures cool, I turn my attention to the many ways I can enjoy the garden indoors. Houseplants are a popular option, but if you are like me, my woeful neglect of the plants often leads to their quick demise. I suppose that is why I am so excited about terrariums. These houseplant arrangements are simple to assemble and the best news is that they will pretty much take care of themselves.
I have a terrarium that has thrived for months with low light and no additional water. It's not so much a miracle as it is the science of nature. The plants inside the terrarium create their own miniclimate, transpiring water vapor that condenses on the glass and then flows back into the soil. Science aside, I find a terrarium fascinating to look at, like a miniature landscape in a jar.
Don't be intimidated by the process of building a terrarium. With all the supplies in hand, you can put one together in a few hours.

Materials:
• Wide-mouth glass container
• Something to cover the jar top such as clear plastic wrap, a pane of glass or Plexiglas
• Potting soil
• Small plants
• Pea gravel
• charcoal
• Watering can or spray bottle

Directions:
Select a container for the terrarium. For easy access, choose one that has a wide mouth. A fishbowl or aquarium is a good choice. Or an apothecary jar with a glass top is a great choice. If your container does not have a lid, you can cover it with clear plastic wrap, a piece of clear Plexiglas or a sheet of glass.
To avoid insect and disease problems, wash the gravel with hot water and use top-quality, sterile potting soil.

Fill the bottom of the container with about 1 inch of gravel. If your container is especially deep, you may want to use 2 inches. Next add about ½” to ¾’of charcoal, this helps keep the soil sweet and not sour to cause disease. Top the gravel with 3 inches of soil.

Now comes the fun part: planting the landscape. When you choose plants, select varieties that all have the same growing needs when it comes to light, water and humidity. Slow growers with small leaves are best suited for the confines of a terrarium.

Remove the plants from their pots and plant them in the terrarium just like you would in the garden. Place the taller plants in the back, mid-size plants in the middle and low-growing things like moss toward the front. If possible, keep the foliage away from the sides of the container. Once you have the plants in place, moisten the soil lightly and put the lid in place.

How often you will need to water your terrarium depends on how tightly the lid fits. A loose-fitting lid lets moisture escape. A good indication of when to water is the condensation on the glass. If there is no condensation, water the soil very lightly. If there is heavy condensation, remove the lid to allow the terrarium to air out.

The neat thing about terrariums is that you are only limited by your imagination. Add large rocks to represent craggy mountains or small mirrors for ponds. You can even create a desert landscape with succulents and cacti. Good terrarium plants include:
• Acorus African violets
• Creeping fig Moss
• Maidenhair FERN Needlepoint ivy
• Oxalis Peperomia
• Prayer plant Peacock moss OR Irish moss

Topiary
Topiary can be described as the art of clipping shrubs into ornamental forms to create living sculptures. The word comes from the Latin word topiarus, meaning landscape gardener. This artful form of gardening can be traced to 1st century A.D. Roman gardeners. I like topiary because, in spite of its rigid appearance, it is quite flexible in application. A standard topiary is an excellent choice for punctuating an entry or, when used in a series, to create a sense of rhythm. And of course, the fantastic forms one can create are a natural for bringing your garden a touch of whimsy.

I always enjoy discovering new and interesting plants. Wire vine is a vigorous climber ideal for training into topiaries. Usually plants that look this delicate can be fussy, but don’t let its appearance fool you. This little guy is tough and is a rapid grower. Wire vine is native to the Mediterranean region so it’s accustomed to hot, dry conditions. I think that’s why it’s so ideally suited to our homes because, particularly in the winter, the air can become hot and dry. It can also withstand the caretaker who forgets to water it from time to time. Other plants that make good indoor topiaries include ivy, rosemary, thyme and lavender.

So try your luck at indoor gardening this month! It will make every day feel like spring.

Till next month,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald