12/30/10

Garden Solutions - January 11


Winter is upon us in full force. Only 78 days until spring arrives! A combination of sleet and snow has made many food sources impossible to reach for many of the wild birds in mid Missouri. In normal winter conditions, most birds have ways of coping with the cold. To help survive cold nights, Chickadees can lower their normal 108-degree body temperature by 12-15 degrees to conserve energy. By dawn, they, like many birds, will quickly dart to a food source to fill their empty stomachs. That is why early morning and late evenings are some of the ‘largest crowds’ at bird feeders. Because most normal food sources are now either ice encrusted or covered by snow, wild birds need and greatly benefit by mid Missouri residents feeding them during times like this.

A good thing to feed the wild birds is hi-energy foods like black oil sunflower seeds, tree nut pieces and suet that give birds more energy per ounce consumed. While something is better than nothing, there is problem with cheap mixes full of oats and wheat or things like bread and cereal that people sometimes throw on the snow. These foods are not only low in energy, they are also the favorites of nuisance, non-native birds like Starlings and English Sparrows that compete, not only for food, but also nesting cavities that many native birds utilize in winter to stay warm. Several Central Missouri songbirds like Bluebirds and Chickadees often sleep in groups on extremely cold nights in cavities or nest boxes transferring heat from one body to the next. It is not uncommon for 6-9 Bluebirds to emerge from one box. A challenge of feeding suet is that Starlings love it. Feed suet in upside down suet feeders and hang them high as Starlings have a hard time hanging upside down to feed and Woodpeckers, Chickadees, Titmice, Nuthatches, and other desirable songbirds can easily hang upside down for feeding.

One need of wild birds often overlooked by consumers in cold weather is the need for ‘open water’. The main reason water is needed is that to keep warm, birds fluff out their feathers so they can better capture a ‘layer of air’ that acts as heated insulation. Matted, dirty feathers can’t be fluffed out, making a bird feel much like how a human feels that wears a down insulated jacket that’s all matted up and not very warm. That is why they need water throughout winter to bathe as well as drink. There are many birdbath heaters and heated birdbaths for as little or less that $20 to help keep water available for wild birds and cost pennies per day in electricity to run.

Does the weather keep you from getting out to your feeders? Just fling a spray of black oil seeds or a good quality wild bird mix out of a bucket or trash can and let it fly out across the top of the snow. Dozens of your feathered friends will soon add brilliant flashes of red and blue, and gray and white across the snow and you’ll hear their melodious songs as they sing ‘thanks’ to you for helping them survive.

If you can tolerate the cold weather, there are a number of things that you can do this month in your landscape that will lighten your workload for the rest of the season. The main item is pruning or thinning of your woody ornamentals. Deciduous trees such as maples, oaks, ash, etc., can be pruned at this time. Interior, broken, or crossing branches should be removed now while you can see exactly what you are removing. The general rule of thumb is that you should not touch spring flowering trees and shrubs at this time of year.

If the weather is extremely bad this month, then snow and/or ice removal are going to be the big tasks for this month. Heavy accumulations of snow or ice can easily damage plants. Dump a snow shovel full of wet snow on top of some of your shrubs and you may end up replacing the broken mass next spring. Snow plows can also do quite a bit of damage to plantings and lawn areas. Use location stakes with flags to show where your driveways and walkways are as well as where to “dump” excess snow. If you have to deal with ice, be extremely careful with the melting compound you use. Rock salt is the most widely used compound and it has the least temperature range for its effectiveness. In addition, rock salt will destroy concrete sidewalks, driveways, and concrete pavers. It will also kill most shrubs, perennials, and lawns. There are many other compounds used for melting ice that won’t damage your concrete or kill your plants. I recommend Calcium chloride or potassium chloride products. If you choose to use these, please read the labels thoroughly. Some work in very low temperatures, but are harmful to pets and wildlife. Others only work when the temperature is between 20 and 32 degrees. You can also use products such as birdseed, sawdust, and non-clumping cat litter to provide traction. Of course, these will not melt the ice, but they will not kill your plants, pets, or concrete.

If you have all of your pruning done, the snow or ice has been removed, and you still have time left to work on your outside to do list, don’t forget about your tools. If you haven’t already done so, it is time to thoroughly go over your lawn mower and make sure that it is already to go and will start on the first pull next spring. The same goes for all outdoor power equipment. Clean all of your hand tools, (pruners, shovels, rakes, etc.), removing any dirt, leaves, sap, from them. If they have wooden handles, inspect the handles for cracks, nicks, or splintering and either replace or repair them as needed. If they have a metal handle, check the welds for signs of breakage and have them repaired. If the tool is a cutting type, sharpen the edges as needed.

Time flies fast, so enjoy this winter preparing for spring, and we will “See you in the garden.”

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

12/2/10

Garden Solutions - December 2010


“The month of December brings the holiday season and warm thoughts of family, friends and community. I would like to say “Thank You,” and I wish you and yours a “Blessed Holiday Season” with all the best in the New Year!” Furthermore, fall will turn into winter this month. With the addition of fire pits in our outdoor living rooms, evenings outdoors can still be enjoyable sampling hot chocolate or cider with friends around the blaze of a comfortable warm fire. You can even gather the kids for the making of s’mores! Enjoy the crisp cool weather.

Plants get “chapped lips” too! Cold, dry winter winds and bright winter sun make our skin chapped and unhealthy. Those winds have a devastatingly similar effect on your plants, which are out in the winds all winter. No wonder your evergreens don’t look so great come spring. This drying effect is called desiccation and is often the most devastating aspect of winter damage on plants in our Midwest region. To fight desiccation, first choose the right plants for windy, dry areas. Especially try to avoid placing broadleaf evergreens, such as azaleas, in places shady in summer but sunny and windy in winter. Second, make sure to water your evergreens well through early December, before the ground freezes and plants can no longer “drink” from the soil. Third, mulch your plants for winter to retain soil moisture as well as soil temperature. Fourth, use an anti-desiccant. These products coat leaves and needles to slow down the loss of moisture. One of the best products to use is Wilt Stop by Bonide. This product is a natural polymer that covers plants with a FLEXIBLE coating to lock moisture in the plant tissue. The flexible coating is important to keep the coating on plants as they bend and sway in the wind. Wilt Stop lasts 45-60 days so apply the first treatment in early December and again in early February.

Here are a few tips on winter houseplant care. When the heat goes on and the daylight becomes shorter, houseplants sometimes begin to yellow and drop their leaves. It may be necessary to move the plants to a different place in the home and give them different treatment from that given during the summer. Flowering plants need at least half a day of direct sunlight to develop flower buds. Cacti and many succulents require a sunny location, and coleus and crotons need direct sun to maintain the decorative color. Foliage plants, such as ivy, philodendron, and dieffenbachia plants, do well in indirect light rather than direct sunlight. The ideal temperatures for foliage plants are 68-70 degrees during the day and slightly lower at night. Flowering plants retain blossoms longer at lower temperatures. Remember, windowsill locations are much colder during the winter and plants that did well there in summer and fall may need to be moved to prevent them from getting chilled. The amount of water the houseplants need declines during winter, so increase the amount of time between watering. Reduce fertilizing as well; flowering plants should be fertilized half as often and foliage plants should only be fertilized if needed.

December also brings the preparation time for the Holidays. Poinsettias are an all time favorite to add a festive look to any décor. Follow these simple poinsettia basics for success. They should have sun for at least ½ the day and keep them away from drafts, registers and radiators. The soil should dry only slightly between thorough watering. Be sure to punch holes in decorative foil wraps to prevent soggy soil conditions. Are you looking for that unusual color? Poinsettias can be painted to match any décor you desire. Here is another idea, try one painted to match colors for your sports team of choice. The possibilities are endless. In addition, you need not worry about the myth of poinsettias being poisonous; there is extensive scientific research that gives the poinsettia a clean bill of health. Enjoy one this year yourself.

Along with these Holiday tips, here are a few other ideas for the month:
• Hollies may be trimmed now and the trimmings can be used in holiday decorations.
• Use caution when spreading salt or calcium on ice or snow packed walks and driveways. Salt can damage lawns and plantings, calcium is much safer to use. Be sure to designate areas to for piling snow from plowing in advance to prevent damage to trees, shrubs and lawns.
• Clean and oil all garden hand tools before storing for the winter.
• Winterize all power equipment before storage. Change the oil and lubricate moving parts. Either drain fuel systems or mix gas-stabilizing additive into the tank.
• You can continue planting bulbs until frost in the ground prevents you from digging.
• Perennial beds and roses should have been put to rest for winter by now. If not, cut back, clean up and mulch. Roses should be mulched 10-12” deep.
• Continue to feed our fine feathered friends and place heated birdbaths with fresh water out for them.

Again, I wish you and your family a very Blessed Christmas season. Let’s get to work on planning those beautiful garden scenes for next year!!!

See you in the Garden…

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

10/29/10

November Garden Solutions 2010

It is sad to watch the garden fading into winter, but at least we don’t have to say goodbye. Spring will return, as naturally as the sun will rise tomorrow morning. All we have to do is get the garden prepped so that it can rest until its renewal a few months from now. Here is a to-do list that will help you prepare your garden for its winter’s nap.

Clean out and cut back. Loads of dead leaves and rotten stalks on plants can harbor disease, even through the winter season. But, don’t cut all your plants back to the ground, and don’t pick up every leaf. It is a great treat to leave some seed heads on plants for the winter birds and ornamental grasses for their winter art in the garden. Leaving some plant stalks to protect the crowns of tender perennials is also beneficial.

Cover up. Mulch is the best winter protection for your plants. Wood mulch is the most common. Wait until the ground has frozen slightly, usually around Thanksgiving for us, to ensure the plants are in their dormancy state. If the snow falls before you get the opportunity to get the job done, mulch over the snow. Some woody perennials and shrubs may benefit from soil mounded around the base. These plants, in our area include, roses, crape myrtle, butterfly bushes to name a few. Tender shrubs may need to be screened or wrapped with burlap or something similar, not plastic.

Dig in. There is still time to plant some garden jewels this month. Trees, shrubs and plants that have a root ball larger than a gallon can be put into the ground. In addition, now is the time to plant those spring beauties we call bulbs. To enjoy the beauty and bright colors of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils as well as crocus and alliums, plant them NOW. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks of cold soil temperatures. Therefore, in our area you can plant up to the Christmas season, as long as frost hasn’t built up in the soil.

Write down. You will find that a garden log or journal will be very helpful next spring when you’re trying to identify those first tentative green shoots and wondering whether you divided that Hosta plant last fall or should you do it now. Draw a basic diagram of each bed, noting the plants and adding photos where you can. A little extra effort with your journal will pay off next spring.

Here are a few other duties to think about this month of November. Continue mowing lawn grasses as long as they keep growing, 3” is a good height. Apply Winterizer fertilizer to lawns to strengthen plant stems and roots for winter growth and early spring green up.

Cover garden ponds with bird or pond netting to prevent leaves from fouling the water. Oxygen depletion from rotting organic matter can cause a winterkill of pond fish. Take steps to prevent garden ponds from freezing solid in winter. Using a floating garden heater in the pond will lessen the chance of ice damage.

Set up bird feeders. Birds also appreciate a source of unfrozen drinking water during the winter. Use one of the many styles of birdbath heaters or heated birdbaths available at garden centers. When feeding the birds, set up a variety of feeder types to get the best assortment of birds to come to your yard. Tube feeders are good for songbirds, platform feeders are good for cardinals and larger birds, and suet is a great source of fat and energy for woodpeckers and all bird types.

Enjoy the antics of wildlife and the beauty of plant art in the garden during this upcoming winter season. I will give you more to look forward to in the winter garden in December. Until then, Happy Thanksgiving to all and enjoy the outdoors as much as possible.

See you in the garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

10/5/10

Garden Solutions

This month in “Garden Solutions,” I am going to focus on trees and pumpkins. Quite a different combination, but both need attention this time of year.

The Many Benefits of Planting Trees

Most often, we plant trees to provide shade and add beauty to our landscape. These are great benefits, but trees also provide many less obvious benefits. Consider all the benefits listed below and remember fall is the perfect time to plant trees for an increased success rate next spring.

· Trees are perfect for planting as living memorials, to remind us of loved ones, or to commemorate significant events in our lives.
· Even though you may own the trees on your property, your neighborhood may benefit from them as well. Through careful planning, trees can be an asset to your entire community.
· Tree lined streets have a traffic calming effect, traffic moves more slowly and safely.
· Trees can be placed to screen unwanted views or noise from busy highways.
· Trees improve our air quality by filtering harmful dust and pollutants such as ozone, carbon monoxide, and sulfur dioxide from the air we breathe.
· Trees give off oxygen that we need to breathe.
· Trees reduce the amount of storm water runoff, which reduces erosion and pollution in our waterways and may reduce the effects of flooding.
· Many species of wildlife depend on trees for habitat. Trees provide food, protection, and homes for many birds and mammals.
· Well-placed trees can reduce your cooling costs in the summer by shading the south and west sides of your home. If deciduous trees are used, they will allow the sun to pass through and warm your home in the winter.
· Evergreen trees on the north side of your home and shrubs around the foundation of your home can act as a windbreak to reduce the cooling effects of winter winds.
· The value of a well landscaped home with mature healthy trees can be as much as 10% higher than a similar home with no or little landscaping. (Topping trees will reduce their value.)


Now let’s change the focus. This is the month for HALLOWEEN!!! What a great and fun time to decorate and enjoy the season with the children of the neighborhood. Here are “Tips for Selecting and Preserving Your Pumpkin.”

Selecting a Pumpkin

When selecting a pumpkin for a jack-o-lantern, choose one that does not have any bruises. Check for discoloration and soft spots. The size will not matter, however, to most children and some adults, bigger is better. You can always enlarge your pattern; shrinking a pattern can make the detail work too difficult.

Pumpkins that are more flat and do not roll well work the best. Look for pumpkins with a sturdy stem; this is the sign of a healthy pumpkin. Do not lift or carry the pumpkin by the stem, this can damage it and make it age faster. Check the bottom of the pumpkin to see if the base is damaged. Sometimes the bottom of pumpkins is thin and can get punctured. Then, bad things can grow in them. If the pumpkin feels heavy and sloshes, put it back. I once opened a pumpkin to find the insides had rotted and there was a slimy, smelly, liquid goo left behind.

Preserving and Firming Up a Pumpkin

There are ways to help keep your pumpkin fresher and firmer. If you place a pumpkin in a washtub of cold water, it will absorb the water and become very firm. Cut open the top of the pumpkin and clean out all the seeds. Fill a washtub, sink or large bucket with cold water, and soak the pumpkin in the cold water. If you have fine detail work to do, you may want to let your pumpkin soak overnight. This will firm up the pumpkin flesh and allow you to do carving that is more intricate. You can add a small amount of unscented Clorox bleach in the water to prevent premature mold and bacteria growth.

Once you have carved your pumpkin, you can add a thin amount of petroleum jelly on the exposed cut edges. This will help seal moisture in the flesh of the pumpkin. If the pumpkin dries out, it will shrivel. You can try to revive it by soaking it in a bath of cold water for one to eight hours. Longer is better. Overnight will not hurt.

You can prepare your pumpkins ahead of time and keep them fresh for a future party or gathering. Soak them first. Wrap them in plastic wrap to hold in the moisture and store them in the refrigerator (not the freezer). They will stay fresh this way for a very long time. Once you remove a wet pumpkin for display, you should immediately dry it off. This prevents mold from having a chance to grow.


Now, enjoy all that the month of October has to offer and I will…

See you in the garden.
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

8/25/10

Garden Solutions - September 2010

There is no better time of year than this abundant season to catch your bearings, reevaluate the year, enjoy the harvest and relax. It is also the best time to take a few moments to invest in your home. There are many simple tasks you can do now, that will save time in the spring when you are twice as busy.

The kids are back in school and off to college. That makes it a good time to get back towork in the yard and garden. Especially if you have put your outdoor living projects off this summer because of bonding, vacations and sports programs…...or hot, dry weather.

Our yards definitely DID suffer this summer. Thank goodness, the hottest month of the year is now behind us. Well, there is no better time to renovate and reseed than during this month of September. In fact, the perfect window of opportunity for lawn growth is August 15 - October 15. Even though it may be hot and dry, it is the perfect time of year to aerate and over seed established yards.

The process should be done as follows: Cut the lawn a little shorter than normal (2-3 inches). Then run over the yard with a core aerator (this machine pulls plugs out of the ground about the size of your little finger). This whole process works best after a good rain or a deep watering. The core aeration process helps with the soil aeration, lessens soil compaction and makes for better, stronger grass root systems. Now, run a renovator over the area. This machine slices the ground with many little teeth and will break down the dirt clods from the core aeration process and bring up any dead thatch in the area.

After the aeration process is completed, you are ready to sow your grass seed (use a 50% spread rate for a 50% stand of grass) and add fertilizer (a starter type fertilizer that is high in phosphorus is best). For a 50% stand of grass or less, you will not need additional cover such as straw. If you are over seeding bare areas or new lawn areas, you will need to straw these areas to hold moisture for seed protection. For the specific grass seed type, shop for seed specific to your area of need: shade, sun, part-shade and sun, etc. Check with your local independent garden center for special grass seed mixes that are specially blended for your region for the best performance.

Once you have sown the grass seed, you can apply a starter fertilizer. Then, add a Winterizer fertilizer to the entire area in late October or November. This whole process will “promise” you a beautiful strong lawn for spring of next year. Water is, of course, essential for this growth if Mother Nature does not cooperate. New lawn installations are also best at this time of year as well.

NOW PLANT, PLANT, PLANT
Fall in Missouri is the ideal time of year to plant all kinds of things from cool-season vegetables to turf grasses, and especially shrubs, evergreens or deciduous trees. Yet, when it comes to planting, many gardeners only think of the spring. Why is fall such an ideal time to plant? First, the warm soil in the fall helps encourage root growth. The roots continue to grow through our mild winters becoming well established by the spring. This makes fall plantings much better equipped to handle our heat and drought once summer finally arrives. Plus, our fall and spring rains help do the work in establishing your plants so you don’t have to do as much. During this time, there is also fewer pests and disease problems to attack your plant while it is young.

Planting trees in the fall of the year is perfect timing to get better results. Choosing varieties for that special spot should be given some thought. The Washington Urban Forestry Council has developed a “Tree List” that can be found on the City of Washington’s website (http://www.ci.washington.mo.us/) under City Departments, Parks & Recreation, and Urban Forestry Council. The list is broken down into different categories that make choosing a tree variety very easy. So plant a tree this fall. You will help the environment, lower your electric bills, and enhance your property value.

Now turn your focus to Fall Decorations….and change the Curb Appeal of your yard by giving it a face-lift for fall. Change out those summer containers and flowerbeds with fall bedding plants that work long into the fall season, which in our case here in Missouri can be thru mid November. You should be able to find such plants as pansies, ornamental cabbage, kale, Fall Magic annuals, ornamental grasses, hardy garden mums and MUCH more. Don’t forget to add in straw, corn stalks, pumpkins and gourds to give it a complete look. Extend the look of your outdoor room and enjoy the extended season.

Fall bulbs are available now and should be considered for spring color in your garden! So start thinking ahead to next year and get in on the action now.

*For additional information about fall gardening and tips, check out the following website: http://www.hillermann.com/.

Time to go………..See you in the Garden
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

7/28/10

Garden Solutions - August 2010


August brings us the dog days of summer... there is no doubt about that. If you have not started enjoying “Outdoor Living,” it is NOT TOO LATE. There are designers in the landscape industry to help you with ideas that will turn your yard into an outdoor oasis. More and more people are retreating to their own backyards. Look for inspiration at every “independent lawn and garden retailer.” Consider adding a water feature to “cool” things down a bit.

Here are a few health benefits of enjoying the outdoors. To the non-gardener or hard-core athlete, gardening may seem like a sedentary activity, but it is not. Activities like carting mulch around in a wheelbarrow, digging in the soil, plus all that bending and lifting involved in planting really does burn calories. Studies show that depending on the activity, gardening can burn between 250 and 500 calories per hour. For many people gardening is a creative outlet, for others it is the change of scenery from the daily grind that makes a difference. Still others find that the satisfaction of reaping the rewards (those tasty fruits and vegetables, and beautiful flowers) of your efforts is what helps to reduce stress levels. So try it out and let me know what you think. I would love to hear your gardening stories. You can email me at sandimcdonald@sbglobal.net.

You desperately need to continue watering during this month. There are many ways to supply water economically and easily, just ask the experts. In-ground irrigation systems are available as well as drip irrigation systems. Drip irrigation systems are very easy for the homeowner to install. Wildlife in your yard, as well as all new and established plantings, need your help during hot, dry summer days. Deep root watering is the most beneficial for established plantings. If you want to learn more about this procedure, ask the experts.

Stop and visit the Washington Town & Country Fair this year (August 4 - 8). Be sure to visit these two educational areas: the Agri-Land booth (near the livestock barns) and Hillermann’s “Gardening Solutions” (near the Family Activity Tent). They both offer hands on learning opportunities and free handouts on great outdoor gardening activities!

Here are tips for the heat and drought period of August:
• You should apply lawn insecticides until August 15 to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.
• Japanese beetles can be eliminated by trapping. Beetle traps are available and safe/organic to use.
• Think “green” and recycle your planting containers.
• Keep deadheading spent annual and perennial flowers for continued bloom.
• Feed garden mums and asters for the last time.
• Monitor plants for spider mite activity. Hose affected plants off with a forceful spray of water, or spray with Bonide Eight (with Permethrin). To check for spider mites, hold a white piece of paper under a suspected branch. Tap on the branch and then run your hand across the paper. If you get red streaks, you have spider mites!
• Roses should receive no further nitrogen fertilizer after the end of August to prevent the production of late tender growth that could be damaged by fall frosts.
• Soak shrubs periodically during dry spells with enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches.
• Prune to shape hedges for the last time this season.
• Once bagworms reach full size, insecticides are ineffective. Pruning off and burning or discarding of large bags provides better control.
• Watch for fall webworm activity. Apply Fertilome Bagworm and Tent Caterpillar Spray when spotted.
• Cultivate Strawberries and apply weed preventer immediately, after fertilizing to help with fall germinating weeds such as henbit or chickweed.
• Protect ripening fruits from birds by covering plants with bird netting. This is a black mesh netting and is readily available at Garden Centers.
• Pinch the growing tips of gourds once the adequate fruit set amount is achieved. This directs energy into the ripening fruits, rather than vine production.
• Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower transplants should be set out for the fall garden. Also, sow seeds of lettuce, radish, beans, beets, spinach and turnips now. (Spinach may germinate better if the seeds are refrigerated.)
• For additional information about garden tips for summer and all seasons, check out this website www.hillermann.com.


Time to go... See you in the Garden!!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald
http://www.hillermann.com/

6/29/10

Garden Solutions - July 2010

Even though the weather outside is not as enticing or enjoyable as it is in the spring of the year, we can still enjoy being outdoors. In addition, there are things that still need to be done in the garden and landscape.

The most important item to consider this time of year, naturally, is water… Provide water to your garden, for not only the perennials, annuals, trees and shrubs, but do it also for the wildlife such as birds, rabbits, and squirrels. This can be done in several different ways. One way would be to install a drip irrigation system. These systems can be installed with tools as simple as a scissors or knife. Timers are also available to take the guesswork out of the project, and the system continues to work even when you are on vacation. This will be extremely important during summer seasons to provide moisture to new and established plantings. Now, Don’t forget the wildlife as well. Birds continue to give us enjoyment with new fledglings arriving as well as their daily antics. Supply water for them in forms of birdbaths, water fountains, or water garden displays. Moving water is a bigger draw for this wildlife activity than still water, and it is safer, too. With moving water, you do not need to worry about mosquitoes and the West Nile Virus.

Now that I have spent time expressing my concern and importance for water during the summer months, let me give you some other tips for the garden…

· Apply the chemical “Permethrin” after July 15th, to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.
· Keep deadheading spent annual flowers for continued bloom.
· DON’T pinch hardy garden mums after mid-July OR you may delay blooming for fall.
· Keep an eye out for powdery mildew and red spider mites this month in the garden. Treat with Copper Fungicide or Malathion insecticide respectively.
· MULCH VOLCANOES KILL!! What this means is that you should NOT build up mulch around your trees with the tip of the volcano up on the tree trunk. In fact, it has to be just the opposite. Put the shallow ring of mulch around the tree trunk and build up a saucer effect of mulch around the outside of the tree ring. This will save the tree in several ways. First, it will not kill off the trunk, and second, it will keep mowers and trimmers from disturbing the trunk bark, which can be devastating to the trees success.
· Bearded irises can be divided at the end of the month. Discard old center sections. Replant so that the tops of the rhizomes are just above the ground level.
· Remember to deep root water established trees and shrubs, as well, during drought conditions.
· Prune out and destroy old fruiting canes of raspberries after harvest is complete.
· Dig potatoes when the tops die and plant fall crops by the 15th.
· Sweet corn is ripe when the silks turn brown.
· For the fall garden, sow seeds of carrots, beets, turnips, winter radish, collards, kale, sweet corn and summer squash as earlier crops are harvested at the end of the month. Also, set out transplants of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower for the fall garden.

This is also a good time of year to consider water conservation. Here are some water conservation tips for the home and garden:

· Water plants where it counts. Water at the roots of plants not the leaves. Focus on watering more expensive trees and shrubs.
· Stop feeding and fertilizing. Plants and grass that have been fertilized grow faster and consume more water.
· When you mow your grass, cut less frequently and at a higher level. Cutting the lawn short promotes growth, and growth promotes water consumption. Longer grass will shade the ground and stay healthier.
· Cut back on household water use. Place a plastic jug filled with water inside your toilet tank. The sealed jug displaces water and allows the tank to fill up more quickly. Use a half-gallon milk jug for older toilets, and a one-liter soda bottle for newer, low-flow toilets. Keep the jug in place with a string tied around it, secured in place from the weight of the tank lid.
· Plant drought tolerant, native plants. Many native plants are drought and disease resistant and make great additions in your gardens. Once established, these plants will need less water than hybridized varieties. Your local independent garden center can help you choose varieties that will work well for the location of your garden.

For additional garden tips for summer, check out our website at www.hillermann.com.

Time to go… See you in the Garden…
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

5/27/10

Garden Solutions - June 2010


Although I’ve never been accused of being short on words, there is often this blank in my mind about where to start the article. This month I will begin with a reminder that June is National Perennial Gardening Month. Perennials are herbaceous plants that die back to the ground in the winter but return year after year to dazzle us with color.

Past and present Perennials of the Year (these are proven performance perennials that have been named since 1991) are usually great choices for anyone’s garden, as they are tried and true varieties. The 2010 Perennial Plant of the Year is Baptisia australis, commonly known as Blue false indigo. It grows three to four feet tall and three to four feet wide in an upright habit. This exceptional perennial grows across a wide range of zones and is one of the most adaptable native species. We are in planting zone 6, so it is always important to check that bit of information as well, on all plants you plan to leave from year to year in your yard. Check the Perennial Plant Association website at http://www.perennialplant.org/ for perennial plants of the year since 1991 plus gardening tips.

Here are 10 quick tips to Fabulous Perennials:
1. Begin by preparing the soil
2. Choose plants carefully, sun vs. shade, etc.
3. Purchase plants that can establish in one season.
4. Space perennials to give them room to grow.
5. Fertilize
6. Mulch
7. Control weeds
8. Control insects
9. Additionally, clean up the beds each season. Enjoy!!

Well, June is also the month of graduations, weddings, vacations, Father’s Day, and the beginning of summer. This is the month that we all begin to spend more of our free time out of doors, enjoying our gardens and the fruits of our labors from the last 3 months, (plus). If all of you have kept up with your tasks, then this month should be easy. However, if you are like me, June will be a month you can get caught up.

The first task that we need to do this month is to get the spring flowering trees and shrubs trimmed. Flowering crabapples, serviceberry, dogwoods, magnolias, lilacs and viburnums all set their buds for next years’ flower on the new growth they develop this year. These plants should be pruned now to encourage new growth and therefore flower buds for next year. It is recommended that you complete the pruning of these plants by early this month.

Here are other garden tips for June:

• Watch for the outbreak of bagworms on garden plants, especially junipers. Then spray affected plants with Permethrin sold under the label ‘Eight’.
• Deadhead bulbs and spring perennials as blossoms fade.
• Repeat plantings of corn and beans to extend the harvest season.
• Fertilize Zoysia grass now while it is actively growing.
• Renovate strawberries after harvest. plow the rows; thin out excess plants; remove weeds; fertilize and apply mulch for weed control.
• Spray roses with a fungicide to prevent black spot disease and fertilize monthly.
• Continue pinching back your garden mums till July 4th to promote full, bushy growth and good fall color.
• Water turf as needed to prevent drought stress, and watch for fungus problems.
• Mow lawns frequently enough to remove no more than one-third the total height per mowing.
• Continue enjoying the antics of the wildlife in your yard and gardens by continuing to supply food and water sources for them.
• Change hummingbird nectar at least weekly to prevent fungus from growing. You can make your own nectar using 1 part sugar to 4 parts water---no food coloring please!
• Move houseplants outside for the summer. Place plants in areas with dappled shade and some protection from hot summer winds.
• Rejuvenate your older lilacs by cutting back to one third of the largest branches. This will create a fuller, more lush specimen.
• Orioles (if you were lucky enough to keep them around) begin building a gray woven nest; this takes about a week.
• Watch for birds carrying food to their young.
• Gray squirrels begin a second breeding.

Are you late getting planting started in your garden this year? YOU ARE NOT ALONE! As busy as we were this May, and as wet as the weather was, many people have commented that they haven’t even begun their planting. That’s okay—you still have plenty of time. Plant selections should still be pretty strong at independent garden centers. Fully enjoy your garden; it is the only true place to connect you to Mother Nature.

See you in the Garden……………..
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

4/27/10

Garden Solutions - May 2010


A SAMPLE GUIDE TO EDIBLE GARDENING

Growing your own food can be a fun and satisfying activity that can nourish your body and your soul. Homegrown veggies and fruits can be more flavorful and nutritious than store-bought produce. Some people might think they don’t have the time to dedicate to an edible garden, but it can easily fit into ANY busy schedule. Once planted, an average-sized edible garden will require less than fifteen minutes a day to maintain. Most seasoned vegetable gardeners look forward to their time spent in their garden, because the rewards are so great! And the therapy it provides is even better!! Your local independent garden center can provide you with all the plants and know how to make your garden a valuable, money saving asset for your home.

When it comes to location, choose the sunniest spot in your yard. Most edible plants prefer 6 or more hours of sun, although leaf veggies (like lettuce) can grow with less sunlight. Consider container gardens if you have a bright deck or patio. Edibles can also be incorporated into your flowerbeds and ornamental plantings as well. Be sure the area has good circulation or airflow.

When possible, raised beds offer ideal growing conditions for vegetables. This is done by mounding soil 8-12” high with or without framing it with wood or blocks. Soil in raised beds heats up faster and produces a crop more quickly. If these beds are high enough, they may even deter dogs and rabbits from visiting, but be ready to put up screening or fencing if necessary. It also offers better drainage and reduces root rot. A raised garden bed should be no wider than 4’ to allow for easy access from both sides.

The key ingredient to a vegetable garden is the soil foundation. Amend the topsoil with compost, such as Black Gold (which is Missouri Botanical Garden Compost produced in St Louis!). Well-rotted manure and humus are also suitable for adding to the existing soil.

Base your crop selection on what your family likes to eat. Choose from your local garden center’s selection of plants, which are known to be well suited for your area. Many independent garden centers trail most of their offerings to ensure that they will be successful in your garden too!

Plant your tall crops (like corn and climbers) on the north side of the garden to prevent them from shading the other shorter plants. Plant medium sized plants (like peppers, tomatoes….) towards the center. Short crops, like carrots, radishes, and lettuce, should be planted on the south end. Try to orient your garden from north to south for best sun coverage.

Here is a sample plant list for a healthy family of four:

10 tomato plants
2 for munching (grape or cherry)
2 for cooking (Roma)
2 for slicing (Better Boy, Celebrity…….)
2 for colorful salads (Lemonboy…..)
2 for conversation (Mr. Stripey or other Heirlooms…..)
4 cucumber plants
12 broccoli plants
8 cauliflower plants
20 lettuce plants
6 pepper plants
3 pumpkin plants
10 spinach plants
2 zucchini or squash plants

Essential herbs
-basil
-oregano
-parsley
-rosemary
-thyme
-cilantro
-dill
-bay
-french tarragon
-mint (very vigorous, so grow in a container!)
-fennel (for you and the butterflies!)

Other essentials…………….
Compost
Shovel, hard rake and tiller
Fertilizer—natural/organic or commercial
Tomato cages, stakes

I truly hope you enjoy the spring and summer season and try your hand a growing fresh produce for your family. Here is a recipe you can try using your fresh produce:

Sweet and Sour Coleslaw:

1 large head cabbage, shredded
1 large onion, chopped
1 large green pepper, chopped
1 cup sugar + 1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. celery seed
1 cup cider vinegar
¾ cup salad oil

Combine the cabbage, onion and green pepper in a bowl. Pour the 1 cup of sugar over the mixture. Let set in refrigerator covered for 4 hours or overnight. Boil together 1 Tbsp. sugar, salt, celery seed, vinegar and salad oil. Let mixture cool. Mix with slaw ½ to 1 hour before serving. Bon appétit!

Don’t forget that Mother’s Day will be here soon and garden plants make great gifts for Mom and Grandma. Plants, Gods natural creations of beauty, will continue to give throughout the season!


See you next month,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

3/30/10

Garden Solutions - April 2010


BREATHE! It is something we all have been doing since the doctor gave us that first slap on the behind the day we were born. It is something we do 24 hours a day every day of our lives, even while we sleep. We don’t even have to think about it. Maybe that is part of our problem. The first thing I do each morning after I shut off the alarm clock is to take 5 long, slow, deep breaths and think about each one. It really refreshes the mind and senses. As the day progresses and things happen that begin to build the stress level, I repeat my morning ritual, and the problems almost solve themselves. What does this have to do with your landscape? What better place to think about and practice breathing then out in your garden. Notice the clean fresh air following a spring thunderstorm, or the fragrance of all the flowers in your landscape. Enjoy relaxing deep breaths after you have finished mowing your lawn. The next time you feel the stress starting to build; somebody just cut you off on your drive to work; the kids are yelling and arguing; the weeds seem to be the only thing growing in your landscape; just breathe. Try it! I’ll bet that it will make you feel better and you will continue it as a habit!

Now pay attention to the birds singing early in the mornings and their increased activity, which leads way to courting, nesting, and soon to be, new fledglings. Therefore, I encourage you to continue feeding our feathered friends during this important time and enjoy the antics that lie ahead. I would also like to remind you that these little birds do eat many insects, which is a great benefit for your yard and garden. You should already have your purple martin houses up and filled, and now it is time to hang up the hummingbird feeders. You can make your own nectar using four parts water to 1 part sugar (1/4 cup sugar to 1 cup water). You can start with slightly more sugar in the mix to attract the hummingbirds, and then go back to the 4 to 1 mixture once the hummingbirds are frequenting your feeders. Boil together the mixture to dissolve the sugar, fill your feeders and enjoy. Change out the liquid frequently as hummingbirds are very fragile and our summer heat can quickly ferment the sugar mixture. Clean the feeder in between each filling.

The lengthening of daylight also seems to brighten peoples’ spirits and relieve some stress as we can now move outdoors and enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer. So, I invite you to go outside and “dig in.” Here are tips to help you get started:

· Remove winter mulch from your rose bushes. Trim out dead and diseased canes. Cut all other green wood to about 18” above the ground on Floribunda and tea rose varieties. A 24-30” height is good on shrub roses (such as the Knock Out rose bush).

· Fertilize your roses with a slow release fertilizer and begin fungicide treatments to control black spot disease.

· When Crabapples are in bloom, hardy annuals can be planted.

· Transplant trees, shrubs, and perennials early in the month for best results. This includes moving plants you already have established in your yard that need to be moved to a new location.

· Spots and bare patches in the lawn can still be over seeded if you did not apply a Crabgrass Preventer. During spring there are more issues to be aware of when seeding a lawn rather than in the fall. Talk to a professional about seed choices and proper procedures.

· Easter lilies can be planted after they finish blooming. Set the bulbs 2-3” deeper then they are in the pot. They are generally hardy here and can take full sun.

· Liquid weed control should be applied early this month to control dandelions, henbit, and other broadleaf weeds. New grass in recently seeded areas MUST have grown enough to be mowed three times before it is strong enough to be treated with weed chemicals.

· Prune spring flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.

· Asparagus and rhubarb harvests begin. Keep your hoe sharp!

· Start cucumber, squash, cantaloupe and watermelon seeds indoors this month for late May/early June planting outside.

· Shrubs such as Crepe Myrtle, Butterfly Bush, and Hardy Hibiscus can be pruned back to green wood this month. REMINDER - these plants leaf out very late (early May) and should not be considered dead, or be replaced until after Mother’s Day.

· Termites begin swarming. Termites can be distinguished from ants by their thick waists and straight antennae. Ants have slender waists and elbowed antennae.

· Apply Bayer Advance Insect Control this month to control borers in shade trees and shrubs.

· Remove old tree wraps from trees planted last fall so they do not create a place for insects to harbor.

· Mole young are born in chambers deep underground.

· Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit trees that are in bloom. Bees are in danger and it is very important to be careful around them. In fact, check out nature friendly products readily available in garden centers when needing to do insect treatments.

· Ornamental Pear trees need to be sprayed with Streptemycin “during” the flowering stage to prevent “Fire Blight” disease.

· Water gardens may be cleaned out and the water changed. Do not scrub the walls since this will remove accumulated beneficial bacteria. Begin adding additional bacteria and barley bales now to begin the natural cycle of pond clean-up. Have questions, call a professional for assistance.

· The last week of April is a good time to try an early sowing of warm season crops such as green beans, sweet corn, etc. Transplants of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and sweet potatoes can also begin to be planted outdoors now.

· Container gardening is a good choice for flower and vegetable gardening if space is in short supply. It can be done by anyone, anywhere, check it out!!

· “Natural Gardening” is a wave of the future… keep your family safe and check out what organic options are available to you when gardening this year. There are many.

Well, time is running short with much to do…see you in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

2/25/10

Garden Solutions - March 2010

By Sandi Hillermann McDonald

This month I would like to talk about two great windowsill garden projects for the home. The first one is “Windowsill Herb Gardens.” As the wind still howls outside, the temperatures are still freezing, and blooming plants are a distant memory, there is nothing like sticking your hands in some soil to bring a smile to your face. One of the easiest, most useful and satisfying things to grow is herbs. Many herbs lend themselves well to growing in a container on a windowsill or near a window. The beauty of growing herbs is you have a free, ready-made source to harvest for use in cooking, and the more you snip, the better they respond by becoming full and bushy.

The easiest herbs to grow include basil, chives, oregano, sage and thyme. These also happen to be some of the most frequently called for herbs in recipes. You will have the greatest success if you start your windowsill garden from starter plants, but seeds are readily available as well. All of these plants like full sun, and to remain flavorful, require at least 5 hours of direct sunlight a day. Therefore, south or southwest-facing windows are ideal. If this is not possible, the use of fluorescent lights placed approximately 6” above the plants will provide you the needed lighting assistance. Rotate the plants frequently to encourage more uniform growth. Herbs prefer temperatures between 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit. Water them when the soil surface feels dry. Fertilize them once a month with a diluted solution of water-soluble fertilizer, like fish emulsion, which is organic. Herbs also benefit from a little extra humidity. Placing your containers in saucers or trays filled with small pebbles and water will provide that extra moisture as the water evaporates around the plants.

The next windowsill project is to “Grow Your Own Greens or Sprouts!” Some of the freshest, most nutritious organic greens on the planet can be grown without special equipment, complicated instructions or time-consuming techniques. All you need is a quart jar, a few tablespoons of sprouting seeds and water. In about a week, you will have a jar full of delicate sprouts you can sprinkle on salads, add to sandwiches or toss into soups for a delicious and healthful twist on your favorite recipes. Some say sprouts are the most nutritiously dense food one can grow. Sprouts are also an economical alternative to buying greens at the grocery store. A small bag of seeds will grow into many delicious harvests. Another benefit is that growing sprouts is a great way to get kids involved in the kitchen. Because sprouts grow so quickly, they’ll be able to watch the entire process from seeding to rooting to eating.

To get started chose the seeds of your preference. Seeds that are most popular for home sprouting include alfalfa, lentil, mung bean, radish, sunflower and broccoli. There are many seed blends available. Each kind of seed offers a different taste experience, from slightly sweet to tangy, but all offer a way to make ordinary meals special. Now to get started is easy. Add 2 tablespoons of seeds to a clean, dry quart jar. Cover the jar with cheesecloth, a nylon stocking or mesh screen; and secure it with a jar ring or rubber band. Cover the seeds with water and soak overnight. Drain the water; and rinse the seeds with fresh water. Swish the water and seeds and drain again. Then, rinse seeds with cool water once a day and drain. The sprouts will be ready to harvest in about 7 days. Use fresh sprouts immediately or store them in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.

Here are a few ideas for using your sprouts. Add a cup or more of bean sprouts to your favorite stir-fry recipe just before serving. Cut a pita pocket bread in half, stuff with tuna or chicken salad and top it with alfalfa sprouts. Use sunflower sprouts in wraps filled with deli meat and cheeses for a tangy twist on a sandwich. Replace parsley with a handful of lentil sprouts in homemade chicken noodle soup. Top a cheese and tomato sandwich with alfalfa sprouts instead of lettuce, and create crunchy veggie tacos with black beans, salsa, cheese and broccoli sprouts!
I hope these simple projects get you thinking of spring!! It will be here this month!! I think that no one is more anxious than I am.


See you in the Garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

2/1/10

February Tips for the Garden 2010


Starting from seed……………
I’m not a fan of winter. There is nobody more excited than I am to see those first signs of spring, like the appearance of crocus. They pop up, and then I know I’m down the home stretch. It is at this time that I can also begin planning my vegetable containers. Part of my planning is deciding which vegetables I should start from seed. During these early months before spring is also the time that you should begin planting many of the summer vegetables you want to start from seed. Some seeds should be started indoors. There are others that you will be able to plant directly outside into the ground. Follow these simple steps to sprout all sorts of tasty treats this coming season.

Starting seed indoors: here is what you need to get started:
Something to plant in - peat pots, planting trays, and peat pellets work best. Just make sure the container drains well and is large enough that it will not dry out between watering.
Seedling potting mix - you will want to use a potting soil that is designed for starting seeds. Fertilome seed starting soil is the perfect medium for germinating seeds. The mix is designed to promote better root development in young plants.

Seeds - there are so many to choose from. For most varieties, plan on growing 6-8 weeks indoors, but check packet directions for accurate growing times. Also, check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended. Some seeds are recommended to be sown directly into the ground, so make sure to read the directions.

A place to grow - seeds need a warm place in order to germinate. After they sprout, sufficient light is critical. A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it is not too hot or cold.
A cover - if your planting tray did not come with a clear plastic lid, you can use plastic wrap to cover your finished tray.

Spray bottle - you’ll want a spray bottle to be able to mist your soil to keep it moist.
Now you are ready to plant seeds. Follow these easy steps for success!
Fill your planting tray or peat pots with seedling potting mix. Pre-moisten the mix with clean water. Peat pellets are fun to use if you have young children. When you add water the peat pellet transforms from a flat disc to a tall self watering pot.

Place your seeds in the soil. Larger seeds can be planted individually into the tray or peat pot. Smaller seeds can be very difficult to see. Sprinkle 3-4 seeds over the soil in each pot. Press in or lightly cover the seeds with potting mix. Do not cover them deeply with soil.

Cover your planting tray with a clear tray lid or with clear plastic wrap. You can also place plastic wrap over the tops of individual pots if you don’t have a tray. Place the tray or pots in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Make sure that your soil remains warm and moist.

When the seeds begin to sprout, remove the plastic wrap. Turn the tray every two days to keep the plants growing straight. Plants will always grow toward the sunlight.

Thin or transplant the seedlings when they get 2”-3” tall and have developed true leaves. This should happen after about 2-4 weeks. Thinning is done by gently pulling up the young plant or pinching off the stem. Transplant them to slightly larger containers to allow the roots to continue to develop. Lift seedlings carefully by digging them out with a fork or spoon, taking care not to disturb the tender roots. Keep transplants out of direct sun for a couple of days to prevent wilting.

Feed with a liquid soluble plant food diluted to half strength and remember to keep your soil moist, but not soggy.

When the danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings into the garden, but they must first be “hardened off”. Set the tray outdoors in shade for 2-3 hours a day, slowly exposing them to full sunlight. After the week is over, transplant the seedlings into the garden. Remember to use a transplant fertilizer when planting them.

Planting seeds outdoors; after danger of frost has passed (generally May 1st in Franklin County, MO), there are many seeds you can plant directly into the ground.

To begin, choose a spot that gets plenty of sunlight and where the soil drains well. Prepare the soil by raking the area clear of leaves and other debris. Dig the garden to loosen the soil down to about 12”. Add a transplant fertilizer at this time.

Make planting rows with a garden trowel or a pointed object, like a pencil to make indentations in the soil. Some seeds like cucumbers may require you to make the soil into mounds to plant the seeds. Plant the seeds according to the spacing directions on the back of the seed packet. Large seeds can be planted individually. Some seeds, like carrots are quite small. These smaller seeds can be mixed with a bit of sand and sprinkled over the area. You will want to read the directions on the seed packet to know how deep to plant the seeds. Attach the empty packet to a stick at the end of the row if you wish to identify what is planted there.

Water the area with a gentle flow from a watering can or hose. Be careful not to shoot the seeds right out of the soil with too strong of water pressure. Keep the garden moist (not wet), until the plants are up and growing.

Final tip:
Whether planting a seed straight into the soil or planting a transplant, don’t forget to bait for slugs. They will feast on our young plant before the plant grows big enough to feed you! Plus, keep a photo journal or a log of the weekly progress in your garden. Once the sun decides to finally return you’ll be surprised at how quickly your tiny little seedlings start mature and you can begin to harvest the fruits and vegetables of your labor.
Now, have fun planning for spring!

See you in the garden...
Sandi Hillermann McDonald