Garden Solutions - April 2014

            Vegetable gardening is making a comeback since food has made dramatic price increases over the past year.  This is also because of the fact that more and more people are concerned with what they put on the family table.  When you grow it yourself, you control what goes in the soil and on the plants, and you get to pick a much broader selection of vegetable varieties.  The supermarket may have 2-3 varieties of tomatoes, where you can choose from dozens of varieties to plant yourself.  Why are there more varieties available at garden centers?  Tomatoes don’t ship well, and they taste a whole lot better home grown.  In fact, a tomato from your own garden is the ultimate standard for taste.  Some, who grow them annually, never buy them from the supermarket, because they pale in comparison to what they can grow in the summer.
 

            If you’re thinking of growing a vegetable garden this year, you are not alone.  If you’re a little timid, there is help available.  Start small and expand as your interest and time permits.  No summertime garden is complete without tomatoes, and the perfect accompaniment to fresh tomatoes on your table is basil.  If your garden has anything this year, consider both.  If you want a little more, some bush cucumbers will fit in small gardens, and so will the bush summer squash varieties.  Most of these bush varieties can be planted in nontraditional garden areas like flower beds or as a small addition to the landscape.  In short, a vegetable garden can find its way into every area of your home’s landscape. Whether it’s confined to its own area, combined into the annual or perennial gardens that you already have, or planted in containers on your deck or patio - it will provide the ultimate in fresh vegetable taste, and the safest vegetables you can produce for your family table.

            The lengthening of daylight also seems to brighten peoples’ spirits and relieve some stress as we can now move outdoors and enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer. Therefore, I invite you to go outside and “dig in.”  Here are other areas of consideration:

·         Remove winter mulch now from your rose bushes. Trim out dead and diseased canes. Cut all other green wood to about 18” on Floribunda and tea rose varieties. A 24-30” height is good on shrub roses.

·         Fertilize your roses with a slow release fertilizer and begin fungicide treatments to control black spot disease.

·         When Crabapples are in bloom, hardy annuals can be planted.

·         Transplant trees, shrubs and perennials early in the month for best success.

·         Spots and bare patches in the lawn can still be over seeded if you did not apply a Crabgrass Preventer. During spring there are more issues to be aware of when seeding a lawn rather than in the fall. Talk to a professional about seed choices and procedures.

·         Easter lilies can be planted after they finish blooming. Set the bulbs 2-3” deeper then they are in the pot.

·         Liquid weed control should be applied this month to control dandelions, henbit and other broadleaf weeds. New grass from seed MUST be mowed 3 times to make it strong enough to withstand weed chemicals.

·         Prune spring flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.

·         Asparagus and rhubarb harvests begin. Keep your hoe sharp!!

·         Start cucumber, squash, cantaloupe and watermelon seeds indoors this month.

·         Shrubs such as Crepe Myrtle, Butterfly Bush, and Hardy Hibiscus can be pruned back to green wood this month. REMINDER—that these plants leaf out very late (early May) and should not be considered to have died or be replaced until after Mother’s Day.

·         Termites begin swarming. Termites can be distinguished from ants by their thick waists and straight antennae. Ants have slender waists and elbowed antennae.

·         Apply Bayer Advance Insect Control this month to control borers in shade trees and shrubs.

·         Remove old tree wraps from trees planted last fall so you don’t make a place for insects to harbor.

·         Mole young are born in chambers deep underground.

·         Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit trees that are in bloom. Bees are in danger and it is very important to be careful around them.

·         Ornamental Pear trees need to be sprayed “during” the flowering stage to prevent “Fire Blight” disease.

·         Water gardens may be cleaned out and the water changed. Do not scrub the walls since this will remove accumulated beneficial bacteria. Begin adding additional bacteria and barley bales now to begin the natural cycle of pond clean-up.

·         Hang out hummingbird feeders the first of this month. Use a solution of 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. Change the solution frequently to keep if from fermenting. Food coloring is not needed nor is it recommended for the hummingbirds.

·         The last week of April is a good time to try an early sowing of warm season crops such as green beans, sweet corn, etc. Transplants of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and sweet potatoes can also begin being planted outdoors.

·         Container gardening is good choice for flower and vegetable gardening if space is in short supply. It can be done by anyone, anywhere, check it out!!

·         “Natural Gardening” is a wave of the future………..keep your family safe and check out what organic options are available to you when gardening this year. There are many.

 

Well, time is running short…see you in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

 

Garden Solutions - July 2013

            Make this the NEW motto for your backyard: “Don’t GO away, GET away!” Wouldn’t it be inviting to have a getaway area in your yard? Make outdoor living, or an extension of your home outdoors, a priority this time of year. Create an outdoor living area with a reading space, a kitchen, a hammock, a family gathering spot, or a water feature for a soothing relaxation place. This action will enhance your property values and give you a great memory making area. As for the garden, there are still things that need to be done this month…

            The most important necessity this time of year, naturally, is water. Provide water in the garden, not only for the perennials, annuals, trees, and shrubs, but also for the wildlife such as birds, rabbits, squirrels, and more. There are several ways to make watering your lawn and flowerbeds easier. One would be a simple drip irrigation system to take care of your plant life. These systems can be installed with tools as simple as a scissors or knife and they are very cost effective. Timers are also available to take the guesswork out of watering for you, and the system will continue to work even when you are on vacation. Another way to make watering easier would be to have an irrigation system professionally installed.

 

            Now, do not forget to provide water for the wildlife as well as plants. Birds continue to give us enjoyment with new fledglings arriving to the feeders and birdbaths in our yard, as well as the adult birds themselves with their daily antics. Water can be supplied in the form of birdbaths, water fountains, or water garden displays. Moving water is a bigger draw for this wildlife activity than still water, and it is safer. With moving water, you do not need to worry about mosquitoes and the West Nile Virus. Any type of water feature will make your “outdoor living room” feel relaxing AND cooler! It is helpful to provide food for the birds now also. Feeding Meal Worms during this time will attract many species of birds, including (but not limited to) robins, wrens, bluebirds, cardinals, etc. This will also help the parents feed their hungry brood and insure a better survival rate.

            Now that I have spent time expressing my concern and importance for water during the summer months, let me give you some other tips for the garden…

·    Apply the chemical “Permethrin” after July 15^th, to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.

·    Keep deadheading spent annual flowers for continued bloom.

·    DON’T pinch hardy garden mums after mid-July OR you may delay blooming for fall.

·    Keep an eye out for powdery mildew and red spider mites this month in the garden. Treat with copper fungicide for mildew or Malathion insecticide respectively.

·    MULCH VOLCANOES KILL!! What this means is that you should NOT build up mulch around your trees with the tip of the volcano up on the tree trunk. In fact, it has to be just the opposite. Put the shallow ring of mulch around the tree trunk and create a saucer effect of mulch around the outside of the tree ring. This will save the tree in several ways. First, it will not kill off the trunk, and second, it will keep mowers and trimmers from disturbing the trunk bark, which can be devastating to the trees success.

·    Bearded irises can be divided at the end of the month. Discard old center sections. Replant so that the tops of the rhizomes are just above the ground level.

·    Remember to deep root water established trees and shrubs, as well, during drought conditions.

·    Prune out and destroy old fruiting canes of raspberries after harvest is complete.

·    Dig potatoes when the tops die and plant fall crops by the 15^th.

·    Sweet corn is ripe when the silks turn brown.

·    For the fall garden, sow seeds of carrots, beets, turnips, winter radish, collards, kale, sweet corn and summer squash as earlier crops are harvested at the end of the month. Also, set out transplants of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower for the fall garden.

            This is also a good time of year to consider water conservation. Here are some water conservation tips for the home and garden:

·    Water plants where it counts. Water at the roots of plants not the leaves. Focus on watering more expensive trees and shrubs.

·    Stop feeding and fertilizing. Plants and grass that have been fertilized grow faster and consume more water.

·    When you mow your grass, cut less frequently and at a higher level. Cutting the lawn short promotes growth, and growth promotes water consumption. Longer grass will shade the ground and stay healthier.

·    Cut back on household water use. Place a plastic jug filled with water inside your toilet tank. The sealed jug displaces water and allows the tank to fill up more quickly. Use a half-gallon milk jug for older toilets, and a one-liter soda bottle for newer, low-flow toilets. Keep the jug in place with a string tied around it, secured in place from the weight of the tank lid.

·    Plant drought tolerant, native plants. Many native plants are drought and disease resistant and make great additions in your gardens. Once established, these plants will need less water than hybridized varieties. Your local independent garden center can help you choose varieties that will work well for the location of your garden.

           

            For additional garden tips for summer, check out our website at www.hillermann.com.

Time to go… See you in the Garden…

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

 

Garden Solutions - December 2012

The month of December brings the holiday season and warm thoughts of family, friends and community. I would like to say “Thank You” and wish you and yours a “Blessed Holiday Season” with all the best in the New Year!

Fall will turn into winter this month. It may not always be the most comfortable time to be planting anything in your landscape, but it is a great time for the plants. Trees and shrubs are completely dormant now, so the concept of transplant shock does not apply. 

Trimming or pruning of some of your trees and shrubs can be done now. Basically, it breaks down like this, if the tree or shrub flowers before the 1^st of June don’t touch it now. If it flowers after the 1^st of June, you can safely cut it now. Resist the urge to cut back everything. Most perennials benefit from adding a layer of mulch or dead leaves. If you had any fungus or disease problems in an area, go ahead and cut back the plants in that area and rake up the debris. Keep your ornamental grasses up until mid-March.

Roses: a winter “hair-cut” can be given, but don’t cut them back all the way. Some winters can be so cold that the roses could get winter die-back which would need to be removed in the spring anyway, so plan on your heaviest rose trimming in spring in early April. Apply a thick layer (10-12”) of mulch at the base of your roses now.

Plants get “chapped lips” too. Cold, dry winter winds and bright winter sun make our skin chapped and unhealthy. Those winds have a devastatingly similar effect on your plants, which are out in the winds all winter. No wonder your evergreens don’t look so great come spring. This drying effect is called desiccation. To fight desiccation, choose the right plants for windy, dry areas. Make sure to water your evergreens well through early December, before the ground freezes. Mulch your plants for winter to retain soil moisture as well as soil temperature. Use an anti-desiccant like Wilt Stop by Bonide. These products coat leaves and needles to slow down the loss of moisture.

Here are a few tips on winter houseplant care. When the heat goes on and the daylight becomes shorter. It may be necessary to move the plants to a different place in the home and to give them different treatment from that given during the summer. Flowering plants need at least half a day of direct sunlight. Cacti and many succulents require a sunny location, and crotons need direct sun to maintain the decorative color. The ideal temperatures for foliage plants are 68-70 degrees during the day and slightly lower at night. Remember, windowsill locations are much colder during the winter and plants may need to be moved to prevent them from getting chilled. The amount of water the houseplants need declines during winter, so increase the amount of time between watering.  Reduce fertilizing as well.

Some of the plants in your landscape can help you decorate for the Christmas season as you prune them for next year. Holly and Boxwood can be trimmed now with some of the cuttings used to accent wreaths or live indoor plants. Some of the growth of evergreens such as White Pine, Norway Spruce, and even some of the seed heads of ornamental grasses can be used to make a harvest wreath or basket for your front door or porch. Talk about recycling! After Christmas, you can take them to your compost bin for future fertilizer! Along with these Holiday tips, here are a few other ideas for the month:

·                     Use caution when spreading salt or calcium on ice or snow packed walks or driveways. Salt can damage lawns and plantings, calcium is much safer to use. Be sure to designate areas to for piling snow from plowing in advance to prevent damage to trees, shrubs and lawns.

·                     Continue to feed our fine feathered friends and place heated birdbaths with fresh water out for them.

Again, I wish you and your family a very Blessed Christmas season.  Let’s get to work on planning that beautiful garden scene for next year!

See you in the Garden…………..

Sandi Hillermann Mcdonald

 

Garden Solutions - September 2011

The kids are back in school and off to college, and it is time to get back to work in the yard and garden since you may have put off your outdoor living projects this summer because of bonding, vacations and sports programs … or hot, dry weather.

Our yards definitely DID suffer this summer. Thank goodness, the hottest month of the year is now behind us. Well, there is no better time to renovate and reseed than this month of September. In fact, the perfect window of opportunity for yard growth is August 15th- October 15th. Even though it may be hot and dry, it is the perfect time of year to aerate and over seed established yards. The process should be done as follows: Cut the lawn a little shorter than normal, 2-3 inches. Then run over the yard with a core aerator (this machine pulls plugs out of the ground about the size of your little finger). This whole process works best after a good rain or a deep watering. The core aeration process helps with the soil aeration, lessens soil compaction and makes for better, stronger grass root systems. Now, run a renovator over the area. This machine slices the ground with many little teeth and will break down the dirt clods from the core aeration process and bring up any dead thatch in the area. Now you are ready to sow your grass seed (use a 50% spread rate for a 50% stand of grass) and add fertilizer (a starter type fertilizer that is high in phosphorus is best). For a 50% stand of grass or less you will not need additional cover such as straw. If you are over seeding bare areas or new lawn areas, you will need to straw these areas to hold moisture for seed protection. For the specific grass seed type, shop for seed specific to your area of need: shade, sun, part-shade and sun, etc. There are special grass seed mixes made up for our Mid-Missouri region that perform beautifully here so, make sure you check that out for guaranteed success.

You can then re-fertilize and add a Winterizer fertilizer to the entire area in late October or November. This whole process will “promise” you a beautiful strong lawn for spring of next year. Water is, of course, essential for this growth if Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate. New lawn installations are also best at this time of year as well.

You need to continue thinking about watering during this month … and remember that there are ways to make it economical and easy, just ask the experts. The wildlife in your yard, as well as all new and established plantings, needs our help this year as we have experienced several exceptionally dry summers.

Now turn your focus to Fall Decorations … and change the Curb Appeal of your yard by giving it a face lift for fall. Change out those summer containers and flower beds with fall bedding plants that work long into the fall season, which in our case here in MO can be thru mid Nov. You should be able to find such plants as pansies, ornamental cabbage, kale, cool season annuals, ornamental grasses, hardy garden mums and MUCH more. Don’t forget to add in straw, corn stalks, pumpkins and gourds to give your displays a complete look. Extend the look of your outdoor room and enjoy the fall season outdoors.

Fall bulbs are available now and should be considered for spring color in your garden! So start to think ahead to next year’s blooms, and get in on the action now.

For additional information about fall garden tips, check out this website: www.hillermann.com.

Time to go……….See you in the Garden…………..
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

August Tips for the Garden 2009

August… besides vacations, other activities that will pull you away from your list of gardening duties are fairs, festivals, family outings, and back to school preparations. It really is a good thing that August is a slow month for working in your landscape.

Your main tasks for this month both begin with the letter W. Weeding and watering. Both tasks are self-explanatory. However, I feel the need to explain them to some extent. It is important to stay on top of the weeds. If you let them get ahead of you and they go to seed, you are going to have hundreds more to deal with this fall and next spring. Spraying weeds with an herbicide such as Roundup is one of the easiest ways to rid of weeds. When using herbicides be sure to read and follow all label directions thoroughly. They are written for your protection. Also, be very careful when spraying around the plants that you want to grow in your landscape. It generally is best to pull weeds that are growing in and immediately around your desirable plants, and spray those that are “in the open”. As far as watering goes, most plants will survive on 1” of water a week. A rain gauge will help measure this.

Bugs, they really bug me, and some of them can really mess up your plants. Before you grab that bottle of insecticide, run outside, and spray every bug in sight, it is important that you identify the bug that is bugging you. Most insecticides can’t tell the difference between a beneficial insect like a honey bee and the destructive spider mite. Therefore, it is important that you identify what insect you are trying to kill and the best method to do it. You can collect some samples of your bug to bring to a garden center for Identification, but please, put them in a Ziploc bag and seal it before you do. This way the staff can safely examine and identify the pest without passing the problem on to their own plant stock. Once they identify the bug, the garden center staff can give you advice on the best way to control it.

Mowing the lawn is another task that continues in August. Due to the usually hot and dry conditions that are the norm in August, you may be able to space your mowing times further apart. That is unless you have an irrigation system to keep your lawn growing vigorously.

If you are thinking about a new addition to your landscape this fall, now is the time to talk to your favorite landscape designer. Your designer can discuss your needs with you, design the changes or new additions, and get you on the schedule for a fall installation.

If you tried your hand at seasonal vegetable or square foot gardening this spring, here are a few ways you can enjoy a fall garden. Carry tomatoes, peppers and basil plants over in your fall garden. Direct sow beets, radishes, peas, and spinach now where other spring crops such as broccoli and cauliflower have come and gone for this year. Replant nursery starts of broccoli and cauliflower.

Last but not least, take care of yourself. In the heat that is referred to as August, it is easy to over exert yourself. Drink plenty of fluids and rest in the shade as needed.

See you next month……….in the garden
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

July Tips for the Garden 2009

I, for one, cannot believe it is the first of July already. This year is really flying by. This is the month for picnics, vacations, family reunions, and for just enjoying the outdoors in general. One of the tasks to take care of this month is weeding. If you put a pre-emergent weed control product in your landscape beds in March or April, you are due for a second application now. There are two reasons for this. First, most of the pre-emergent products that are available to the homeowner have a short life span, up to 60 days. The second reason is due to all of the rain we have had. However, there are many benefits to the very adequate rainfalls this year. One of them is the ease with which some normally difficult weeds can be pulled. So take time to clean up your landscape beds and apply a pre-emergent as soon as possible.

The long hot days of summer are stressful to every living creature, including all your plants. If you are tired of the endless task of keeping your plants watered, it is time to think about adding mulch to your beds.

I know that hotter weather is just ahead, so do yourself and your plantings a huge favor and apply mulch. If you have beds that have never been mulched, add 3” around all annuals, perennials, roses, trees and shrubs. Top dress previously mulched beds with an additional inch of fresh mulch. Not only does mulch hold in moisture, relieving you of some of your watering tasks, it also keeps the soil cooler, so your plants will be less heat-stressed. An added bonus is that weed seeds have a difficult time germinating when buried in mulch, reducing the time you spend weeding.

One of the most common questions that we receive at this time of year is, “How much do I water my ______?” I will try to explain some basic guidelines here:

Vegetables and Bedding Plants planted in the ground: established plants need at least one inch of water per week, more when bearing fruit. Check the soil around the plants, when it is dry one inch down, it’s time to water.

Container Gardens and Hanging Baskets: check your containers every day for water. Either test the soil by touch or lift the pot. Most baskets and many containers will need to be watered once, or even twice a day, depending on the weather. I suggest you fertilize once a week.

Perennials: newly planted perennials need daily watering until established, at least one to two weeks, depending on weather. After they show signs of new growth, apply a one inch per week rule.

Trees and Shrubs: newly planted trees and shrubs should be watered every 4-5 days for the entire first year after planting, unless rainfall is abundant. Place the end of your hose next to the base of the plant and let the water trickle very slowly for about two hours. This will allow the root zone to become thoroughly saturated.

Established Lawns: your lawn should be watered when the grass blades don’t bounce back after being walked on. One inch of water per week should keep your lawn green and healthy. It is best to water early in the morning, before the heat of the day. This keeps evaporation to a minimum, and allows plenty of time for the grass to dry before nightfall, which will help prevent fungus problems.

Newly Seeded or Sodded Lawns: for better germination, I suggest you mulch grass seed with straw as soon as it is planted. Once seed has germinated or sod has been laid, they must not be allowed to dry out. Water daily with a sprinkler until there is good growth. Early morning is again the best time. Once established, go back to the one inch per week rule.

Water Gardens: also require an occasional addition of water. Check your pond weekly and add water as needed. Water plants have variable depth requirements, so you need to keep the water levels consistent.

So continue to enjoy your outdoor spaces and make relationships with your plants! They can give you so much in return!

See you in the Garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

October Tips for the Garden 2008

FALL-THE PERFECT TIME TO GARDEN:

Fall brings cooler air temperatures, continued warm soil temperatures, and more consistent rainfall - the perfect time to plant and transplant just about anything (especially trees) - and it is easier on us gardeners too! Tree planting is the most effective when it is done in the fall. This is because the tree roots continue to grow until the ground freezes and will grow again in spring allowing extra time for the tree to become established before our brutal summer weather hits. Trees should be fertilized towards the end of October, and tree fertilizer spikes placed at their drip line are a perfect choice. Use one tree spike per one inch of tree trunk diameter. This will make for beautiful foliage next spring! (The diameter of the tree is a measurement found at a cross section of the trunk 12” above the ground.)

Fall is also the best time to divide and transplant perennial clumps. Any spring or summer blooming perennial plants can be divided now. Make sure you prepare the area where the plants will be transplanted using some type of organic material, like cotton burr compost. Use compost at the rate of 1/3 compost to 2/3’s native soil for your garden projects. Cut back spent flower heads and foliage as it starts to die back for its winter dormant period. Leave ornamental grasses alone until early spring as their dried foliage will add a wispy, interesting texture to your winter landscape.

Lawn seeding should be finished by October 15th to insure germination and plant growth yet this fall. Choose a seed mix for your specific lawn area: sun, shade, sun/shade, play, drought, etc. Fescue mixtures are best for durability for our area. Fescue blends should be spread at a rate of 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. on bare ground, and 2-3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. on a lawn with a 50% stand of grass. Be sure to aerate and renovate your yard when over seeding for the BEST results. Without these steps, it is like throwing grass seed on to concrete because our soil has such high clay content and compacts so easily.

It’s time to plan and plant for next spring’s bulb show! Tuck bulbs into your perennial border, mingle them amongst your ground cover, naturalize them around trees, or they can stand by themselves in beds and planters. Plant for a succession of blooms; start with the ‘early birds’ which include crocus and snowdrops, follow with an abundance of narcissus and hyacinth, and finish with a flourish of tulips and irises. When planting, fertilize with Dutch Bulb Food or Bone Meal and make planting easier by using bulb planters or bulb augers that fit your drill. For holiday blooms, buy paperwhite and amaryllis bulbs now to force blooms inside during the month of December.

DON ‘T take your hummingbird feeders down before mid October. The bird’s biological clock tells them when to migrate south. THEY ARE NOT dependent on us removing the feeders at a certain time! Hummingbirds who have started their migration from up north will appreciate finding your feeders along the way.

With winter coming, remember that gardening is not just confined to outside. Start an herb garden on a sunny windowsill and enjoy freshly snipped herbs or salad greens all winter long. Bring color and texture to any room-with blooming and foliage houseplants and cacti. Bring tropical plants that have spent the summer outside indoors before the night temperatures drop below 45F. Be sure to check carefully for signs of pests or diseases first, and treat as needed.

In October, you also need to prepare your water gardens for winter. Cut back dying foliage of hardy water plants and sink pots to the bottom of the pond. Cover your pond with a mesh netting to protect it from the buildup of falling leaves. In the winter, install a de-icer or pond heater to keep a hole in the ice for the fish to breathe. This will let the ammonia gases escape the pond. Stop feeding your fish when the water temperature reaches 55F.

Evaluate your summer plantings of annuals and vegetables while they are still fresh in your mind. What varieties worked well and what did not? Which varieties gave you the best flower display or yield? Remember that spring is just around the corner! So begin planning next spring’s flower and vegetable gardens now.

Enjoy your yard and garden in every season!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

July Tips for the Garden 2008

Here is a tip for the month of July - Sit back and relax! For many of us, the July 4th date marks the beginning of the entertainment season. And what a season it is! We plan, we phone, we shop, we decorate, we mow, we clean, we check supplies, we shop again, we cook, we carry lawn chairs and coolers outside, and we fret about the weather. When the guests arrive, it all starts over. Pouring, serving, clearing, fetching, and recycling can fill hours, if we let them. So part of the planning needs to include ways to have some time for you to sit back and enjoy your party, too. Maybe an e-mail sent to everyone with one push of the button can replace two hours of phone calls. Making your event a potluck will eliminate much of the shopping and cooking. Be sure to have everyone bring their own beverages, table service and lawn chairs. And finally, don’t mow the lawn. Your lawn will do better with foot traffic if it is a little bit longer. With all that taken care of, all that’s left for you to do is to have a good time! Now that we have talked about having parties and enjoying your yard and garden at home, let us get down to other tasks at hand for July.

It’s not too late to plant shrubs, perennials, and annual flowers, but you will need to give them a little TLC for the summer. If you have not been pinching back your garden mums, cut them back by half as soon as possible and fertilize them. You should do this task by mid July. This will help them to grow bushier and bloom when anticipated in the fall - until Thanksgiving for late blooming varieties. Avoid applying weed killers, insecticides, fungicides, and fertilizers to plants when the temperatures are above 90 degrees. Spray early in the morning when temperatures are below 85.

If Japanese beetles are attacking your plants, you have several options for controlling them, from handpicking (not my favorite), to trapping (the safest), to spraying them. Japanese beetle traps are readily available, safer for children and pets, and they do a fantastic job of eradicating the problem naturally.

Photo courtesy of http://www.rescue.com/

Remove infected leaves from roses and pick up fallen leaves. Continue fungicidal sprays as needed on these beauties. Keep deadheading spent annual and perennial flowers for continued bloom. Keep weeds from making seeds now. This will mean fewer weeds next year.
Hot, dry weather is ideal for spider mite development. Damage may be present even before the webs are noticeable. With spider mite damage, leaves may be speckled above and yellowed below. Evergreen needles appear dull gray-green to yellow to brown. Spray with permethrin to control this critter. Sweet corn is ripe when the silks turn brown. Blossom – end rot occurs on tomato and peppers when soil moisture is uneven and the calcium level in the soil is not right. Adding lime to the garden will help these issues next year.

Water conservation is of the utmost importance during our dry summer months. These following simple tips can save time and money. Water plants where it counts - at the roots, not the leaves. Drip irrigation systems in landscape beds do wonders for water conservation, and they are easy for the homeowner to install. Trees and shrubs would also benefit from a deep root watering this time of year. You can use a deep root feeder (without the fertilizer) for this purpose. Apply the water around the drip line of the tree for best success. Doing this every 2-3 weeks will keep your trees stress free. Trees have had a lot of stress the past couple of years with the late April freeze of ’07 and the continued drought conditions the past several summers. Water frequently enough to prevent wilting. When you mow your grass, cut it less frequently and at a higher level - Cutting it short promotes growth, and growth promotes water consumption. Longer grass blades shade the soil and conserve moisture. Plant drought tolerant, native plants where possible - Native plants are becoming more readily available in nursery settings.

Check your plant containers daily for water. Put your finger at least one inch down in the soil, if the soil is dry to that depth, water thoroughly. Hanging baskets will need a drink at least once a day, sometimes even twice a day depending on the weather. Provide water in the garden for birds during dry weather and they will repay you with wonderful antics and songs. They will even take care of some garden insects for you. Enjoy nature and your gardens this summer. You will not regret it…

See you in the Garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald