January Tips for the Garden 2009

This month I would like to talk “bird feeding.” Celebrate our feathered friends and make it a family affair! It is hard to say who benefits more from backyard bird feeders, the birds or the people who feed them. Some of life’s moments that are more enjoyable include the songs and antics of the birds outside our windows. Watching them is so captivating that it can alter an entire day’s plans, turning a twenty-minute breakfast into a three-hour brunch. Activity at your feeders probably can hold your attention all day with its ever-changing pattern of form and color, from fluffed-up chickadees to sleek cardinals. Often the brightest spot on the winter landscape, with the most activity, is the bird feeder in the backyard. No matter what size yard or garden you have, you can create your own bird haven. All you need to do is provide food, water and shelter. Start with shrubs and evergreens, which not only offer cover during harsh northern winters, but also protect birds from their natural enemies. They also provide safe nesting sites in the spring. Your local nursery can help you choose varieties that are most beneficial for the wild birds.

Whether you are just beginning or greatly expanding your bird-feeding program, give careful consideration to making it easy and fun for the whole family. If the feeders are hard to reach, the bags too heavy for the kids to maneuver, or the birdbath too far from the hose, pretty soon someone will lose patience and object to being involved. Hang different types of feeders at different heights and near enough to your house so you can watch the birds at relatively close range. You can use empty coffee cans and homemade funnels (cut the bottom off a large soft drink bottle) for feeder-filling convenience. Don’t be discouraged if you have just put up a new feeder and the birds don’t flock to it immediately. Because birds recognize food by sight, it can take a while for them to locate a new source. Birds are attracted to shiny, reflective items. Try putting aluminum foil on the ground underneath the feeder, where sunlight can be reflected. If you already have other feeders, put the new one nearby until the birds discover it. Bird feeding activity attracts other species, so when you add a specialty feeder (such as a nyjer feeder to attract finches) to your feeding station, it probably won’t take new birds long to find it. Remember that, for the sake of the birds’ health, it is always important to keep the feeders and the ground beneath then cleaned up of old seed that can harbor disease.

A clean source of water is important for the birds especially in winter. Put your birdbath in an open area, but near some trees or bushes to permit a quick escape if predators approach. Birds will visit regularly once they discover that it is a safe and steady source of fresh water. Open water in freezing weather will attract as many or more birds as a well-stocked feeder! Water actually helps the birds stay warmer in winter. By cleaning their feathers and grooming them with natural oils, our feathered friends are able to help insulate their bodies from cold. You can keep water thawed with a submersible heater placed directly into the water… which is an economical and safe method, as long as you use a high-quality outdoor extension cord to plug the heater into an electrical source. Heated birdbaths are also a good option.

Birds appear to be homeless in winter, which makes people wonder where they go at night. In general, they choose to roost in the same kind of places as they build their nest during breeding season. Some birds will use the same roosting spot every night unless they are disturbed by predators. Depending on the species, birds have different nighttime habits. For example, chickadees and other small feeder birds must be settled in before it gets dark. They usually head for some type of cover, often in the form of evergreen trees. Chickadee flocks fly into these evergreens together and tend to perch near the trunk for added protection from the wind. Nuthatches and some small woodpeckers, such as the downy, often head for tree holes in which to spend the night. Some woodpeckers may even excavate a tree hole in winter just for roosting, and they usually roost singly. A few other birds, bluebirds for example, may also roost in tree holes or birdhouses to conserve body heat. Bluebirds and nuthatches don’t mind a crowd so they may roost communally, particularly on cold nights. The record for the most eastern bluebirds found in one birdhouse at night is 25! That’s a good argument for keeping your birdhouses up all year long! Many birds fly long distances to spend the night in large communal roosts. Crows fly up to 50 miles each winter night, usually finding a roost in evergreens with as many as 100,000 of their closest friends. Grackles, robins, starlings and many herons also form large nighttime roosts. One of the most amazing night behaviors of birds is exhibited by the northern bobwhite. In winter, they join into groups called coveys. These consist of 12 to 16 birds that feed together during the day and gather together at night in a circle on the ground with their tails facing in. The circle is tight, and all the birds are close against their neighbors on either side.

Here’s a small trivia fact about birds. Did you know…for added insulation to conserve heat produced by shivering, birds grow a large number of extra feathers in early winter. White-throated sparrows average about 1,525 feathers in October, and well over 2,500 in February. “Feather light” is not an exaggeration. This huge number of body feathers makes up less than 10 percent of the whitethroat’s total one-ounce weight.

So take time to enjoy the show outside your window in the garden this winter, and we shall talk again soon.

From the garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

December Tips for the Garden 2008

The month of December brings the holiday season and warm thoughts of family, friends and community. I would like to say “Thank You” and wish you and yours a “Blessed Holiday Season” with all the best in the New Year! Furthermore, fall will turn into winter this month. With the addition of fire pits in our outdoor rooms, evenings outdoors can still be enjoyable sampling hot chocolate or cider with friends around the blaze of a comfortable warm fire. Connect with kids by roasting hot dogs and making s’mores around the fire! Enjoy the crisp cool weather.

It may not always be the most comfortable time to be planting anything in your landscape, but it is a great time for the plants. Trees and shrubs are completely dormant now, so the concept of transplant shock does not apply. However, you do need to treat any new plantings the same now as you would if it were the middle of summer. New plantings need to be thoroughly watered in regardless of the weather conditions. If it is below freezing but the ground is not frozen, go ahead and plant, taking care to backfill the hole with as loose a soil mix as you can. As soon as the temperatures are back above freezing go back to your new plantings and water them in. If you have spring bulbs that you haven’t gotten in the ground yet, you need to make that a priority. A little bone meal or blood meal placed over the planting areas will help keep the squirrels away from your bulbs. They are also great additives for your bulbs.

Leaf removal is the next task. I had all of the leaves cleaned out of my yard a week ago, only to see a lot of leaves from my neighbor’s yard come to visit my yard with the help of the wind we have had. The point I am trying to make is that leaf removal is an ongoing task. Un-composted leaves can smother your lawn and cause disease problems for some of your shrubs and perennials. You can shred the leaves with a shredder, or the lawn mower, and add them to your compost pile.

Trimming or pruning of some of your trees and shrubs can be done at this time. Basically it breaks down like this, if the tree or shrub flowers before the 1st of June don’t touch it now. If it flowers after the 1st of June, you can safely cut it now. Resist the urge to cut back everything. Most perennials benefit from adding a layer of mulch or dead leaves. If you had any fungus or disease problems in an area, go ahead and cut back the plants in that area and rake up the debris. Mulch any plants that need extra protection, like those hardy banana trees! Keep your ornamental grasses up until mid-March (I’ll let you know when it’s time to cut them back).
Roses: a winter “hair-cut” can be given, but don’t cut them back all the way. Some winters can be so cold that the roses could get winter die-back which would need to be removed in the spring anyway, so plant on your heaviest rose trimming in spring in early April. Apply a thick layer (10-12”) of mulch at the base of your roses now.

Lawns: It is still a great time to apply a Winterizer fertilizer to the lawn. This fertilizer will help keep your cool season turf greener, even in the coldest part of the year.
Plants get “chapped lips” too. Cold, dry winter winds and bright winter sun make our skin chapped and unhealthy. Those winds have a devastatingly similar effect on your plants, which are out in the winds all winter. No wonder your evergreens don’t look so great come spring. This drying effect is called desiccation and is often the most devastating aspect of winter damage on plants in our Midwest region. To fight desiccation, first choose the right plants for windy, dry areas. Especially try to avoid placing broadleaf evergreens, such as azaleas, in places shady in summer but sunny and windy in winter. Second, make sure to water your evergreens well through early December, before the ground freezes and plants cannot “drink” from the soil. Third, mulch your plants for winter to retain soil moisture as well as soil temperature. Fourth, use an anti-desiccant. These products coat leaves and needles to slow down the loss of moisture. One of the best products to use is Wilt Stop by Bonide. This product is a natural polymer that covers plants with a FLEXIBLE coating to lock moisture in the plant tissue. The flexible coating is important to keep the coating on plants as they bend and sway in the wind. Wilt Stop lasts 45-60 days so apply the first treatment in early December and again in early February.

Here are a few tips on winter houseplant care. When the heat goes on and the daylight becomes shorter, houseplants sometimes begin to yellow and drop their leaves. It may be necessary to move the plants to a different place in the home and to give them different treatment from that given during the summer. Flowering plants need at least half a day of direct sunlight to develop flower buds. Cacti and many succulents require a sunny location, and coleus and crotons need direct sun to maintain the decorative color. The ideal temperatures for foliage plants are 68-70 degrees during the day and slightly lower at night. Flowering plants retain blossoms longer at lower temperatures. Remember, windowsill locations are much colder during the winter and plants my need to me moved to prevent them from being too chilled. The amount of water the houseplants need declines during winter, so increase the amount of time between watering. Reduce fertilizing as well: flowering plants should be fertilized half as often and foliage plants should only be fertilized if needed.

Some of the plants in your landscape can help you decorate for the Christmas season as you prune them for next year. Holly and Boxwood can be trimmed now with some of the cuttings used to accent wreaths or live indoor plants. And, some of the inside growth of evergreens such as White Pine, Norway Spruce, Blue Spruce, even some of the seed heads of ornamental grassed can be used to make a harvest wreath or basket for your front door or porch. Talk about recycling! After Christmas, you can take them to your compost bin for future fertilizer! Along with these Holiday tips, here are a few other ideas for the month:

· Use caution when spreading salt or calcium on ice or snow packed walks or driveways. Salt can damage lawns and plantings, calcium is much safer to use. Be sure to designate areas to for piling snow from plowing in advance to prevent damage to trees, shrubs and lawns.

· Continue to feed our fine feathered friends and place heated birdbaths with fresh water out for them.

One last task is to remember your tools. Steel and wood don’t like dirt and water. Keep them clean and well oiled and they will serve you for years to come. Gasoline powered tools should also be serviced according to the manufacturers specifications so that they will start on the first pull next year.

Again, I wish you and your family a very Blessed Christmas season. Let’s get to work on planning that beautiful garden scene for next year!

See you in the Garden…………..
Sandi Hillermann Mcdonald

November Tips for the Garden 2008

We have definitely had more moisture than usual this year. However, you still want to watch for dry periods and water your plants if the soil dries out, especially for new plantings. Roots of plants grow in winter months and need moisture before the ground freezes. You can plant trees and shrubs anytime the ground is not frozen. This will give the plant more time to become established before the next hot summer. Add a fire pit to your outdoor living space and enjoy cool evenings around a crackling fire. Remember to turn your clocks back the first weekend in November. There are many things to do in the yard and garden before the season ends. So, dig in to the tasks listed below and enjoy the outdoors as much as you can!

• Now is a good time to collect soil samples and test the pH and nutritional levels. Lime will increase the pH level if it is low. Sulfur will lower the pH level if it is high. The product labels and the staff at your local Garden Center can help you determine the rate to use for your situation.
• Till the vegetable garden to expose many insect pests to winter cold and reduce their numbers in next year’s garden.
• Keep leaves raked up and off the lawn to prevent injury to turf grasses.
Continue mowing lawn grasses as long as they keep growing, 2-3” high is good.
• Apply Winterizer fertilizer to lawns to strengthen plant stems and roots for winter growth and early spring green up.
• If we have dry periods before the ground freezes, water perennial beds, shrubs, and trees.
• Plant tulips and other spring bulbs now through December.
• Start paperwhite, narcissus, and amaryllis bulbs indoors now thru December.
• After the first hard freeze, mulch rose bushes heavily to a depth of 12” to cover the plant graph area properly using bark, compost, or straw with rose collars. Prune back longer canes to 24-36” to prevent whipping from wind in the winter. Hold off on heavy pruning until April of next year.
• Roll up and store garden hoses on a warm, sunny day.
• Towards the end of the month, be sure to shut off and drain any outdoor water pipes or irrigation systems that may freeze during cold weather.
• Cover garden ponds with bird or pond netting to prevent leaves from fouling the water. Oxygen depletion from rotting organic matter can cause a winterkill of pond fish.
• Take steps to prevent garden ponds from freezing solid in winter. Using a floating garden heater in the pond will lessen the chance of ice damage.
• Mulch strawberries with straw for winter. The best time to do this is after several nights of 20° F, but before temperatures drop into the teens. Apply straw loosely, but thick enough to hide plants from view.
• Set up bird feeders. Birds also appreciate a source of unfrozen drinking water during the winter. Use one of the many styles of birdbath heaters or heated birdbaths available at garden centers.
• When feeding the birds, set up a variety of feeder types to get the best assortment of birds to come to your yard. Tube feeders are good for songbirds, platform feeders are good for cardinals and larger birds, and suet is a great source of fat and energy for woodpeckers and all bird types.

Winter houseplant care: reduce or eliminate fertilizer until spring, shorter days mean slower growth, slower growth means less frequent watering. Plants in plastic pots need less water than those in clay pots. Plants in cooler rooms need less water and will have slower growth than those in warm rooms. Creating additional humidity is always beneficial. An easy way to increase humidity is to use trays filled with water and large pebbles. Place the plants on the pebbles so they will not sit in the water, but they can get the benefit of a higher humidity level as the water evaporates.

The fall season is ending, but outdoor enjoyment can continue especially with the new outdoor living trends of today. Can you believe that it is November already? Wow, from November 1, there are only 27 more days until Thanksgiving, 51 days until the first day of winter, 55 more days until Christmas and 62 more days until January 1, 2009! And you know how fast the next 62 days are going to fly by! So fasten your seatbelts and enjoy the outdoors as you prepare for winter….Enjoy your yard and garden in every season!

Time to go….See you in the Garden....
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

October Tips for the Garden 2008

FALL-THE PERFECT TIME TO GARDEN:

Fall brings cooler air temperatures, continued warm soil temperatures, and more consistent rainfall - the perfect time to plant and transplant just about anything (especially trees) - and it is easier on us gardeners too! Tree planting is the most effective when it is done in the fall. This is because the tree roots continue to grow until the ground freezes and will grow again in spring allowing extra time for the tree to become established before our brutal summer weather hits. Trees should be fertilized towards the end of October, and tree fertilizer spikes placed at their drip line are a perfect choice. Use one tree spike per one inch of tree trunk diameter. This will make for beautiful foliage next spring! (The diameter of the tree is a measurement found at a cross section of the trunk 12” above the ground.)

Fall is also the best time to divide and transplant perennial clumps. Any spring or summer blooming perennial plants can be divided now. Make sure you prepare the area where the plants will be transplanted using some type of organic material, like cotton burr compost. Use compost at the rate of 1/3 compost to 2/3’s native soil for your garden projects. Cut back spent flower heads and foliage as it starts to die back for its winter dormant period. Leave ornamental grasses alone until early spring as their dried foliage will add a wispy, interesting texture to your winter landscape.

Lawn seeding should be finished by October 15th to insure germination and plant growth yet this fall. Choose a seed mix for your specific lawn area: sun, shade, sun/shade, play, drought, etc. Fescue mixtures are best for durability for our area. Fescue blends should be spread at a rate of 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. on bare ground, and 2-3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. on a lawn with a 50% stand of grass. Be sure to aerate and renovate your yard when over seeding for the BEST results. Without these steps, it is like throwing grass seed on to concrete because our soil has such high clay content and compacts so easily.

It’s time to plan and plant for next spring’s bulb show! Tuck bulbs into your perennial border, mingle them amongst your ground cover, naturalize them around trees, or they can stand by themselves in beds and planters. Plant for a succession of blooms; start with the ‘early birds’ which include crocus and snowdrops, follow with an abundance of narcissus and hyacinth, and finish with a flourish of tulips and irises. When planting, fertilize with Dutch Bulb Food or Bone Meal and make planting easier by using bulb planters or bulb augers that fit your drill. For holiday blooms, buy paperwhite and amaryllis bulbs now to force blooms inside during the month of December.

DON ‘T take your hummingbird feeders down before mid October. The bird’s biological clock tells them when to migrate south. THEY ARE NOT dependent on us removing the feeders at a certain time! Hummingbirds who have started their migration from up north will appreciate finding your feeders along the way.

With winter coming, remember that gardening is not just confined to outside. Start an herb garden on a sunny windowsill and enjoy freshly snipped herbs or salad greens all winter long. Bring color and texture to any room-with blooming and foliage houseplants and cacti. Bring tropical plants that have spent the summer outside indoors before the night temperatures drop below 45F. Be sure to check carefully for signs of pests or diseases first, and treat as needed.

In October, you also need to prepare your water gardens for winter. Cut back dying foliage of hardy water plants and sink pots to the bottom of the pond. Cover your pond with a mesh netting to protect it from the buildup of falling leaves. In the winter, install a de-icer or pond heater to keep a hole in the ice for the fish to breathe. This will let the ammonia gases escape the pond. Stop feeding your fish when the water temperature reaches 55F.

Evaluate your summer plantings of annuals and vegetables while they are still fresh in your mind. What varieties worked well and what did not? Which varieties gave you the best flower display or yield? Remember that spring is just around the corner! So begin planning next spring’s flower and vegetable gardens now.

Enjoy your yard and garden in every season!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

September Tips for the Garden 2008

By Sandi Hillermann McDonald, Hillermann Nursery & Florist

It’s fall already! Where did the summer go? The kids are already back in school and off to college. The weather has been quite different this year compared to last year’s drought, heat, etc. It was a nice change considering normal summer weather for our area.

If you like to garden, I am sure you have heard the phrase “Fall is for Planting,” but do you know why we say this? Fall plantings have a wonderful success rate, especially here in the Midwest. Given the temperate nature of our fall climate with mild temperatures and generally adequate rainfall, the conditions are excellent for establishing new plantings successfully. The result is plants that grow faster and bigger, and they bloom better. The plant’s root systems actually get a second growing season before they have to manage our (normally) hot, dry summers. Plant roots continue to develop long after the leaves drop off in the fall. Roots will continue to grow until freezing of the ground stops them.

Now is also the time to add color into the fall landscape with the cheerful faces of winter hardy pansies and violas, gorgeous garden mums, and unique varieties of ornamental cabbage and kale. Transform the entrance to your home into a welcoming, colorful fall display with potted mums, cabbage and kale, cornstalks, ornamental grasses, an assortment of pumpkins and squash, and maybe a scarecrow set on a hay bale.

Don’t forget spring flowering bulbs. Now is the time to get the best selection of varieties and colors and you have until the middle of December to get them planted. Fall bulb planting varieties include Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils and Crocus to name a few. Planting depths vary but average 4-6” deep.

September is the perfect month for lawn renovation. Even though this year’s cooler, wetter summer was not as harsh on our lawns, now is the time to consider renovation and aeration. Aeration is one of the most important cultural practices available for your lawn. Aeration helps control thatch, improves the soil structure, helps create growth pockets for new roots, and opens the way for water and fertilizer to get to the roots of your lawn.

Aeration is the process of removing thousands of small cores of soil 1” to 3” in length from your lawn. These cores “melt” back into the lawn after a few rainfalls, mixing with whatever thatch exists on top of your lawn. The holes in the soil created by aeration make perfect pockets for catching fertilizer and water. Turf roots naturally grow toward these holes and thicken in the process. Aeration holes also relieve pressure from compacted soils, letting more oxygen and water move into the root zone of your lawn. Thatch on your lawn’s soil works like a thatched roof. It sheds water and prevents fertilizers and insect controls from moving freely into the soil. Thatch that has become too thick can require a major lawn renovation. Aeration helps thatch to break down naturally by mixing the soil cores into the thatch and speeding up the decomposition of the thatch.

Once aeration is accomplished, it is a perfect time to over seed your lawn. Fescue grass seed blends are most common here in the Mid-Missouri area. Fescue blends take our summer heat and drought conditions better than Bluegrass seed mixes, although Bluegrass types will work good in irrigated areas. Fescue lawn mixes tolerate heat, drought and traffic from kids and pets better. Over seed Fescue lawns at a rate of 2-3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft if you have a 50% stand of grass. Over seed Bluegrass lawns at a rate of 1-2 lbs. per 1,000 sq ft if you have a 50% stand of grass. After seeding, top dress with a starter type fertilizer, and you are ready to enjoy a beautiful green lawn for fall and spring!

The fall of the year is perfect timing for tree planting. You should give some thought to choosing varieties for that special spot. Sun exposure, soil moisture, and the available growth space, needs to be assessed to help with tree selection. The Washington Urban Forestry Council has developed a “Tree List” that can be found on the City of Washington’s website at http://ci.washington.mo.us/. Look under City Departments on the side menu, then Parks & Recreation and Urban Forestry Council. The list is broken down into different categories that make choosing a tree variety very easy. So, plant a tree this fall. You will help the environment, lower your electric bills, and enhance your property value.

Here are a few other quick tips for this month. Begin to adapt your houseplants for winter indoors. Check for pests and treat if necessary. Houseplants should be brought indoors at least one month before the heat is normally turned on. Sow fall vegetable crops through mid September. Harvest herbs now to freeze or dry for winter.

See you in the Garden……………………
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

August Tips for the Garden 2008

August brings us the dog days of summer... there is no doubt about that. July 2008 brought us milder temperatures and more moisture than usual for this time of year. I must say it was very welcome, too. This may help some of the trees and shrubs damaged from droughts and ice storms of the past years recover better. However, the ground dries fast in the summer heat and wind. Be sure to provide water for all your trees, shrubs, and plants when rain is not enough.

If you have not started enjoying “Outdoor Living,” it is NOT TOO LATE. With the price of gas lately, it is only understandable that more and more people are retreating to their own backyards for vacations at home this year. So, forget the stress of planning and traveling and enjoy your own “Stay-cation!” There are designers in the industry to help you with ideas that will turn your yard into an outdoor oasis. Look for inspiration at every “independent lawn and garden retailer.” Add patios, walkways, walls, water, hammocks and more!

Be sure to visit the Washington Town & Country Fair this year (August 6th-10th). Don’t miss these two educational areas: the Agri-Land booth (near the livestock barns) and Hillermann’s “Gardening for Fun and Smarts” (near the North Entrance Gate). Both of these booths offer hands on learning opportunities (for kids and adults) and helpful handout sheets on outdoor activities and gardening!

Here are additional tips for the heat and drought period of August:


¨ It is not too late to put up Japanese Beetle traps to catch those pesky critters in a natural, safe way.
¨ You can still apply lawn insecticides until August 15 to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.
¨ Compost or till under residues and debris from harvested crops.
¨ Prop up the branches of your fruit trees that are threatening to break under the weight of a heavy crop.
¨ Keep deadheading your spent annual and perennial flowers for continued blooms into fall.
¨ Feed hardy garden mums and asters for the last time this season.
¨ Monitor plants for spider mite activity. Hose affected plants off with a forceful spray of water, or spray with Bonide Eight (with Permethrin). To test for spider mites, hold a piece of white paper under the leaves. Tap on the leaves and then run your hand over the piece of white paper. If you see evidence of red streaks on the paper, you have an infestation of spider mites!
¨ Roses should receive no further nitrogen fertilizer after the end of August to prevent the production of late tender growth that could be damaged by fall frosts.
¨ Deep root water established trees around the drip line (this is where the edge of the branches stop) to help alleviate stress on trees going into winter.
¨ Soak shrubs periodically during dry spells with enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches.
¨ Toward the end of August, dormant lawns should be soaked to encourage strong fall growth.
¨ Prune to shape hedges for the last time this season.
¨ Once bagworms reach full size, insecticides are ineffective. Pruning off or pulling and burning or discarding of large bags provides better control for next year.
¨ Watch for fall webworm activity. Apply Fertilome bagworm and Tent Caterpillar Spray when webs are first spotted. Rip open the web bag before spraying for best control.
¨ Cultivate Strawberries and apply weed preventer immediately, after fertilizing.
¨ Protect ripening fruits from birds by covering plants with bird netting. (This is a poly type product readily available at Garden Centers).
¨ Pinch the growing tips of gourds once the adequate fruit set amount is achieved. This directs energy into the ripening fruits, rather than vine production.
¨ Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower transplants should be set out for the fall garden. Also, sow seeds of lettuce, radish, beans, beets, spinach and turnips now. (Spinach may germinate better if the seeds are refrigerated.)
¨ Lawn renovation and over-seeding time is right around the corner. I will discuss this more in September.
¨ For additional information about garden tips for summer and all seasons, check out this website www.hillermann.com.

Time to go... See you in the Garden!!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

July Tips for the Garden 2008

Here is a tip for the month of July - Sit back and relax! For many of us, the July 4th date marks the beginning of the entertainment season. And what a season it is! We plan, we phone, we shop, we decorate, we mow, we clean, we check supplies, we shop again, we cook, we carry lawn chairs and coolers outside, and we fret about the weather. When the guests arrive, it all starts over. Pouring, serving, clearing, fetching, and recycling can fill hours, if we let them. So part of the planning needs to include ways to have some time for you to sit back and enjoy your party, too. Maybe an e-mail sent to everyone with one push of the button can replace two hours of phone calls. Making your event a potluck will eliminate much of the shopping and cooking. Be sure to have everyone bring their own beverages, table service and lawn chairs. And finally, don’t mow the lawn. Your lawn will do better with foot traffic if it is a little bit longer. With all that taken care of, all that’s left for you to do is to have a good time! Now that we have talked about having parties and enjoying your yard and garden at home, let us get down to other tasks at hand for July.

It’s not too late to plant shrubs, perennials, and annual flowers, but you will need to give them a little TLC for the summer. If you have not been pinching back your garden mums, cut them back by half as soon as possible and fertilize them. You should do this task by mid July. This will help them to grow bushier and bloom when anticipated in the fall - until Thanksgiving for late blooming varieties. Avoid applying weed killers, insecticides, fungicides, and fertilizers to plants when the temperatures are above 90 degrees. Spray early in the morning when temperatures are below 85.

If Japanese beetles are attacking your plants, you have several options for controlling them, from handpicking (not my favorite), to trapping (the safest), to spraying them. Japanese beetle traps are readily available, safer for children and pets, and they do a fantastic job of eradicating the problem naturally.

Photo courtesy of http://www.rescue.com/

Remove infected leaves from roses and pick up fallen leaves. Continue fungicidal sprays as needed on these beauties. Keep deadheading spent annual and perennial flowers for continued bloom. Keep weeds from making seeds now. This will mean fewer weeds next year.
Hot, dry weather is ideal for spider mite development. Damage may be present even before the webs are noticeable. With spider mite damage, leaves may be speckled above and yellowed below. Evergreen needles appear dull gray-green to yellow to brown. Spray with permethrin to control this critter. Sweet corn is ripe when the silks turn brown. Blossom – end rot occurs on tomato and peppers when soil moisture is uneven and the calcium level in the soil is not right. Adding lime to the garden will help these issues next year.

Water conservation is of the utmost importance during our dry summer months. These following simple tips can save time and money. Water plants where it counts - at the roots, not the leaves. Drip irrigation systems in landscape beds do wonders for water conservation, and they are easy for the homeowner to install. Trees and shrubs would also benefit from a deep root watering this time of year. You can use a deep root feeder (without the fertilizer) for this purpose. Apply the water around the drip line of the tree for best success. Doing this every 2-3 weeks will keep your trees stress free. Trees have had a lot of stress the past couple of years with the late April freeze of ’07 and the continued drought conditions the past several summers. Water frequently enough to prevent wilting. When you mow your grass, cut it less frequently and at a higher level - Cutting it short promotes growth, and growth promotes water consumption. Longer grass blades shade the soil and conserve moisture. Plant drought tolerant, native plants where possible - Native plants are becoming more readily available in nursery settings.

Check your plant containers daily for water. Put your finger at least one inch down in the soil, if the soil is dry to that depth, water thoroughly. Hanging baskets will need a drink at least once a day, sometimes even twice a day depending on the weather. Provide water in the garden for birds during dry weather and they will repay you with wonderful antics and songs. They will even take care of some garden insects for you. Enjoy nature and your gardens this summer. You will not regret it…

See you in the Garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

June Tips for the Garden 2008

Although I’ve never been accused of being short on words, sometimes it is hard to decide where to start. This month I will begin with a reminder that June is Perennial Gardening Month. Perennials are herbaceous plants that die back to the ground in the winter but return year after year to dazzle us with color.

Here is a list of the Perennial Plants of the year from 1990 through 2008 as chosen by the Perennial Plant Association:
2008 Geranium ‘Rozanne’
2007 Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’
2006 Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Feuerhexe’
2005 Helleborus xhybridus
2004 Athyrium niponicum 'Pictum'
2003 Leucanthemum 'Becky'
2002 Phlox 'David'
2001 Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster'
2000 Scabiosa columbaria 'Butterfly Blue'
1999 Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii 'Goldsturm'
1998 Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus'
1997 Salvia 'Mainacht' (May Night)
1996 Penstemon digitalis 'Husker Red'
1995 Perovskia atriplicifolia
1994 Astilbe 'Sprite'
1993 Veronica 'Sunny Border Blue'
1992 Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam'
1991 Heuchera micrantha 'Palace Purple'
1990 Phlox stolonifera

Pictured is the 2008 Perennial Plant of the Year Geranium ‘Rozanne’.

The Perennial of the Year varieties are usually good choices for any garden, as they are tried and true varieties. Our area is in planting zone 5, so it is always important to check the plant tags for that bit of information on all plants you plan to leave in your garden from year to year. You can visit the Perennial Plant Association website at http://www.perennialplant.org/index.asp for more information on all of the plants listed above.

June is also the month of graduations, weddings, vacations, Father’s Day, and the beginning of summer. This is the month that we all begin to spend more of our free time outdoors enjoying our gardens and the fruits of our labor from the last 3 months (plus). If all of you have kept up with your tasks, then this month should be easy. However, if you are like me, June will be a month you can get caught up.

The first task that we need to do this month is to trim the spring flowering trees and shrubs. Flowering crabapples, serviceberry, dogwoods, magnolias, lilacs and viburnums all set their buds for next years’ flower on the new growth they develop this year. These plants should be pruned now to encourage new growth and therefore flower buds for next year. It is recommended that you complete the pruning of these plants by early this month.

Here are other tips for the garden for June:

· Watch for the outbreak of bagworms on garden plants, especially junipers. Then spray affected plants with Permethrin sold under the label ‘Eight’.
· Deadhead bulbs and spring perennials as blossoms fade.
· Repeat plantings of corn and beans to extend the harvest season.
· Fertilize Zoysia grass now while it is actively growing.
· Renovate strawberries after harvest. Mow the rows; thin out excess plants; remove weeds; fertilize and apply mulch for weed control.
· Spray roses with a fungicide to prevent black spot disease and fertilize monthly.
· Continue pinching back your garden mums until July 4 to promote full, bushy growth and good fall color.
· Water turf as needed to prevent drought stress, and watch for fungus problems.
· Mow lawns frequently enough to remove no more than one-third the total height per mowing.
· Continue enjoying the antics of the wildlife in your yard and gardens by continuing to supply food and water sources for them.

· Change hummingbird nectar at least weekly to prevent fungus from growing. You can make your own nectar: 1 part sugar to 4 parts water---no food coloring please!

· Move houseplants outside for the summer. Place plants in areas with dappled shade and some protection from hot summer winds.
· Rejuvenate your older lilacs by cutting to the ground one third of the largest branches. This will create a fuller, lusher specimen.
· Orioles (if you were lucky enough to keep them around) begin building a gray woven nest; this takes about a week.
· Watch for birds carrying food to their young.
· Gray squirrels begin a second breeding.

Are you late with getting started on your plantings this year? YOU ARE NOT ALONE! As busy as we were this May, and as wet as the weather was, many people have commented that they haven’t even begun their planting. That’s okay - you still have plenty of time. There should be a good selection of plants still available at your local garden center.

Fully enjoy your garden; it is the only true place to connect you to Mother Nature.
See you in the Garden……………..
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

May Tips for the Garden 2008

“Coming home” at the end of a day can be even more important to us now than ever before. Times are changing and everyone is busier than before with kids to coach, meetings to attend, and work to do. In addition, the cost of gas makes us want to leave the car parked when possible. So, enjoy daylight savings time and extend your living quarters to your yard and garden. Think of your outdoor spaces as an extension of your home. And in doing so, consider the floor, walls, and ceiling per se. Adding resting areas is easy to do…hang a hammock in a tree, set a bistro set in the perennial garden, or put benches in your Hosta beds. Then invite friends over and have a cook out. Let the nature in your yard tickle your senses with the sounds of birds, smells of flowers, sound of running water, and splashes of color. Hardscapes can enhance your outdoor rooms by adding a “floor” to your area of enjoyment.

While you are enjoying your yard, and I hope that you are, here are some items to put onto your gardening checklist. Begin planting summer annuals (spring has finally come to stay!) to add color and spice to the landscape, and don’t stop with just the flowerbeds. There are many new color introductions available in annuals this year that will prove to be very exciting. Try Dragon Wing Begonias, Kong Coleous, Black and Blue Salvia, or Juncus to name a few. Another great addition to the landscape, Knock Out Roses - really are Knock Outs, and are now available in 9 varieties (including singles and doubles). These beauties are very disease resistant and require low maintenance. Therefore, roses are not just for the experts anymore.

Container gardening continues to be a trendy thing. The many choices, styles, shapes, and colors of containers make great accent pieces for inside or out. Let your imagination soar and express yourself. Use imaginative containers you pick up at flea markets and auction yards. Learn to mix annuals and perennials for great combinations. Try hostas with begonias and impatiens….or hydrangeas with groundcovers. These containers can make great accent pieces on the front porch, the back deck, in a flowerbed, around the pool, or at the end of the driveway. In addition, you can rearrange them as often as you wish. No room for a vegetable garden? Try one in a container. You can enjoy fresh tomatoes easily this way. You could even try a Salsa Garden in honor of Cinco do Mayo.

Take your houseplants outdoors once the evening temperatures will remain above 50`. Move sun-loving plants (hibiscus, gardenias, mandevillas, etc.) gradually to sunny locations, as they have not had full sun in your home and will need to be acclimated to those conditions. Plant summer bulbs now and fertilize with bone meal or bulb food. Pinch hardy garden mums back now and continue to do so until July 4 to insure proper fall blooming. Treat slugs in your garden with organic diatomaceous earth. This powder product is 100% safe, and is good for the treatment of slugs, ants, fleas and ticks outside, as well as roaches and ants indoors. This organic product is very safe to use and a good one to have on hand. “Natural Gardening” with eco-friendly products is a very “trendy” and SAFE thing to do for your own health as well as the environment. Check out the chemical-free options available to you today. Then sit back and watch your kids and pets enjoy the beautiful outdoors.

Insect problems to watch for this month are pine sawflies, aphids, scale crawlers, cucumber beetles, and grubs, to name a few. Permethrin is the chemical product on the market today that is labeled for indoor and outdoor use. Permethrin will kill a large variety of insects on plants, in the soil, and in the home. It comes in many formulations and strengths. See a professional for questions of use of this product.

Other May tips include:
· Pinch azalea and rhododendron blossoms as the flowers fade.
· Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons with an acid base fertilizer now.
· Do not remove spring bulb foliage too early or next year’s flower production will decline. Let the foliage die back naturally.
· Plant hardy water lilies now.
· Begin fertilizing annuals now and continue at regular intervals all season long.
· Treat trees with borer problems now with Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub product.
· Keep bluegrass lawns cut at 1.5-2.5” high, fescue lawns at 2-3.5” high and zoysia at 1.5” high.
· Apply post-emergence broadleaf weed controls to the lawn now if needed.
· Begin planting sweet corn, tomato plants, peppers and sweet potatoes as the soil warms up.
· Keep asparagus harvested for continued spear production.
· Remove rhubarb seed stalks as they appear.
· Do not spray any fruits while in bloom, you may ruin the pollination process.
· Birds eat many insects so attract them to your garden by providing good nesting habitats.
· Herbs planted in average soils need no extra fertilizer. Too much may reduce flavor and pungency at harvest.
· Watch for fireflies on warm nights. Both adults and larvae are important predators for plant damaging insects.

Until next month, enjoy connecting with nature and….see you in the garden….

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

April Tips for the Garden 2008

BREATHE! It is something we all have been doing since the doctor gave us that first slap on the behind the day we were born. It is something we do 24 hours a day every day of our lives, even while we sleep. We do it without thinking about it. Maybe that is part of our problem. The first thing I do each morning after I shut off the alarm clock is to take 5 long, slow, deep breaths and think about each one. It really clears the cobwebs out. As the day progresses and things happen that begin to build the stress level, I repeat my morning ritual, and the problems almost solve themselves. What does this have to do with your landscape? What better place to think about and practice breathing then out in your garden. Notice the clean fresh air following a spring thunderstorm, or the fragrance of all of the flowers in your landscape. Enjoy relaxing deep breaths after you have finished mowing your lawn. The next time you feel the stress starting to build, somebody just cut you off on your drive to work, the kids are yelling and arguing, or the weeds seem to be the only thing growing in your landscape, just breathe. Try it! I’ll bet you keep doing it!
Now pay attention to the birds singing early in the mornings and their increased activity, which leads way to courting, nesting and soon to be, new fledglings. Therefore, I encourage you to continue feeding our feathered friends during this important time and enjoy the antics that lie ahead. I would also like to remind you that these little birds do eat many insects, which is a great benefit for your yard and garden. You should already have your purple martin houses up and filled, and it is time to hang up the hummingbird feeders. You can make your own nectar using four parts sugar to 1 part water. Boil together the mixture to dissolve, fill your feeders and enjoy. Change out the liquid frequently as hummingbirds are very fragile and our summer heat can quickly ferment the sugar mixture. Clean the feeder in between each filling.
The lengthening of daylight also seems to brighten peoples’ spirits and relieve some stress as we can now move outdoors and enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer. So, I invite you to go outside and “dig in.” Here are tips to help you get started:
· Remove winter mulch now from your rose bushes. Trim out dead and diseased canes. Cut all other green wood to about 18” above the ground on Floribunda and tea rose varieties. A 24-30” height is good on shrub roses (such as the Knock Out rose bush).
· Fertilize your roses with a slow release fertilizer and begin fungicide treatments to control black spot disease.
· When Crabapples are in bloom, hardy annuals can be planted.
· Transplant trees, shrubs, and perennials early in the month for best results. This means moving plants you already have established in your yard that need to be moved to a new location.
· Spots and bare patches in the lawn can still be over seeded if you did not apply a Crabgrass Preventer. During spring there are more issues to be aware of when seeding a lawn rather than in the fall. Talk to a professional about seed choices and proper procedures.
· Easter lilies can be planted after they finish blooming. Set the bulbs 2-3” deeper then they are in the pot. They are generally hardy here and can take full sun.
· Liquid weed control should be applied early this month to control dandelions, henbit, and other broadleaf weeds. New grass in recently seeded areas MUST have grown enough to be mowed three times before it is strong enough to be treated with weed chemicals.
· Prune spring flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.
· Asparagus and rhubarb harvests begin. Keep your hoe sharp!
· Start cucumber, squash, cantaloupe and watermelon seeds indoors this month for late May/early June planting outside.
· Shrubs such as Crepe Myrtle, Butterfly Bush, and Hardy Hibiscus can be pruned back to green wood this month. REMINDER - these plants leaf out very late (early May) and should not be considered dead, or be replaced until after Mother’s Day.
· Termites begin swarming. Termites can be distinguished from ants by their thick waists and straight antennae. Ants have slender waists and elbowed antennae.
· Apply Bayer Advance Insect Control this month to control borers in shade trees and shrubs.
· Remove old tree wraps from trees planted last fall so they do not create a place for insects to harbor.
· Mole young are born in chambers deep underground.
· Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit trees that are in bloom. Bees are in danger and it is very important to be careful around them. In fact, check out nature friendly products readily available in garden centers when needing to do insect treatments.
· Ornamental Pear trees need to be sprayed with Streptemycin “during” the flowering stage to prevent “Fire Blight” disease.
· Water gardens may be cleaned out and the water changed. Do not scrub the walls since this will remove accumulated beneficial bacteria. Begin adding additional bacteria and barley bales now to begin the natural cycle of pond clean-up. Have questions, call a professional for assistance.
· The last week of April is a good time to try an early sowing of warm season crops such as green beans, sweet corn, etc. Transplants of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and sweet potatoes can also begin to be planted outdoors now.
· Container gardening is a good choice for flower and vegetable gardening if space is in short supply. It can be done by anyone, anywhere, check it out!!
· “Natural Gardening” is a wave of the future… keep your family safe and check out what organic options are available to you when gardening this year. There are many.

Well, time is running short…see you in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

March Tips for the Garden 2008

March is the month for spring!! What a wonderful feeling to be able to spend more time outside to enjoy what Mother Nature is unfolding before our eyes. The lengthening of days is a welcome site and the warming sun on our faces is a very great feeling. We “spring forward” with Daylight Savings Time on Sun., March 9 this year. That in itself is exciting.
March is what I call the foundation month in your landscape. Just as a house is only as good as the foundation it is sitting on, the success, or failures you experience in your landscape this year can be traced back to the tasks you complete this month. The first thing you need to do this month is go for a walk. Walk around your yard and make notes about the things you see. Did the winter storms do any damage to your trees or shrubs? Did the winds blow all of your neighbors’ leaves onto your property, leaving them packed in and around your shrubs of in some corner of your planting beds? Did you get all of your perennials cut back last fall, or are the tops still lying around cluttering your beds? If you said yes to any or all of the above questions, then the first thing you need to do this month is take care of these items.
Here is a list of other interests for the month of March:
· Once you have your landscape beds cleaned up and all of the early pruning and cutting back completed, it is time to spread a little fertilizer around your trees and shrubs. A general purpose plant food with a 14-14-14 formulation would be greatly appreciated by any and all of your plants. Don’t forget your perennials. Just because you can’t see them right now does not mean they would not benefit greatly from a feeding.
· Begin your weed prevention program this month by applying a pre-emergent weed control product such as Preen to your landscape beds. Now is also the time to apply Fertilome crabgrass prevention on the lawn. You will need to water these applications in or apply them just prior to a gentle spring rain.
· Mowing time is right around the corner. Mow lawns now to remove old growth and the last of winter’s leaves before new growth begins. Thin spots in the lawn can be over seeded now. If you intend to treat for crabgrass at this same time, check with a professional before starting the process to get the right products to ensure success.
· The new crop of seeds for the 2008 season are now in garden centers, along with all of the supplies needed to start those seed indoors. Early-spring, cool weather vegetables can only be grown during cool weather, so they are planted very early in the year so that they can be harvested in early spring. These plants include peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, collards, turnips, potatoes, spinach, onion sets, beets, carrots, [parsley, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, cabbage and Chinese cabbage. This month is also great for setting out strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, grapes and fruit trees. Grow your own just like Grandma and Grandpa used to do!
· Start seeds indoors this month for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. Check with your professional to get a vegetable garden schedule and easy “how-to tips.”
· Houseplants can still be replanted in an attempt to get them ready for spring, moving them to containers 2 inches larger in diameter than their current pot. Continue to check houseplants for over wintering insect populations.
· Nesting boxes for Bluebirds can be set up as well as Purple Martin houses. Purple Martins return to our zone 5 region between St Pat’s Day and the end of the month. Bluebirds however, are here year round, but now is the time for nesting. So clean out those houses and be prepared for the show!
· Ornamental grasses and liriope should be cut back the first part of March to the height of 2-3 inches.
· Apply dormant oil sprays now to all fruit bearing plants, fruit trees, roses and all plants that appear to be disease susceptible. This will prevent problems in season and should be applied when the nighttime temperatures will remain above 40 degrees over night after spraying.

Enjoy the new birth of spring this month and I will see you in the garden!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

February Tips for the Garden 2008

February is National Bird Feeding Month!!!

February is National Bird Feeding Month…so if you have not yet enjoyed this hobby, it is not too late to start. Choose the proper feed for the types of birds you would like to attract. Tube type feeders are great for all types of songbirds, including finches, nuthatches, pine siskens, and more. Platform type feeders, (feeders with a horizontal bar or platform) are best for attracting larger birds such as cardinals, bluebirds, blue jays, etc. To view the antics of these fluttering jewels is remarkable. Start today.

I cannot believe that it is the first of February already. January is normally one of the slowest months around a garden center, but this year it has flown by. It is time for that furry little rodent to come out and tell us what we already know; it is winter, and groundhogs know nothing about predicting the weather. It is also time for the Super Bowl and the associated parties. I really hope that the game is at least as good as the commercials normally are. With that said, on with this month’s tasks and ideas.

Now would be a good time to finish cleaning, sharpening, and oiling your yard tools. Check the handles of all of your yard tools to make sure they are not broken, splintering, or otherwise dangerous, and replace those that are. Also, make sure that your wheelbarrow is sturdy and your lawnmower, roto-tiller, and string trimmer are in good working condition and ready to start on the first pull this spring. Another cold weather job is cleaning up any containers or planters that you have stored away. While doing this, make a list of the flowers that you are going to need for these containers in the spring.

If the weather warms up enough to be able to go outside and work, look for winter damage as well as damage done to your plants by hungry critters. You can also begin some of the spring cleanup tasks at this time. Remove all those leaves that have blown in from your neighbor’s yard and accumulated around your shrubs. Cut back any perennials that you may not have gotten to last fall.

Are you thinking of using wood ashes in your garden? Be careful. A measured application can be beneficial to increase the soil pH and add potassium, but an over-application can increase the likelihood of soil related problems. Wood ashes should not come into contact with germinating seedlings or plant roots, since they may cause root damage. Ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning. Do not use ashes around plants that prefer acid soils such as blueberries, hollies and azaleas. Never use more than 20 pounds of wood ash per 1,000 square feet, as toxicity problems could result from excessive usage.

You can still safely prune most deciduous trees and shrubs now, but remember to stay away from any of the spring flowering trees and shrubs. If you trim them now, you will not have any flowers this spring.
Towards the end of the month, you can start cutting back any and all of the ornamental grasses in your landscape. You can also edge your planting beds and get them ready for mulching.

If the weather does not warm up enough for you to get any outside work done this month, do not despair, you can find help by contacting your local landscape provider. If at any time you feel overwhelmed with the tasks you have to complete in your landscape, call someone for help.

We are approaching March, what I call the foundation month. All the work that you do in March sets the foundation for a successful or unsuccessful year of gardening and enjoying your landscape. Remember, February is your chance to get a head start on March. Take advantage of any warm days we get at this time. Anything you can get done this month will be one less thing you have to do in March.

Therefore, there is a lot to embrace and enjoy in the garden… see you next time.
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

January Tips for the Garden 2008

JANUARY IS FOR THE BIRDS!!! SO ENJOY THEM!!!

It is hard to say who benefits more from backyard bird feeders - the birds or the people who feed them. Some of life’s more enjoyable moments include the songs and antics of the birds outside our windows. Watching them is so captivating that it can alter an entire day’s plans, turning a twenty-minute breakfast into a three-hour brunch. Activity at your feeders probably can hold your attention all day with its ever-changing pattern of form and color, from fluffed-up chickadees to sleek cardinals.

Often the brightest spot on the winter landscape, with the most activity, is the bird feeder in the backyard. No matter what size yard or garden you have, you can create your own bird haven. All you need are food, water, and shelter. Shrubs and evergreens are good, not only to offer cover during harsh northern winters, but also to protect birds from their natural enemies. They also provide safe nesting sites in the spring.

Whether you are just beginning or greatly expanding your bird-feeding program, give careful consideration to making it easy and fun for the whole family. If the feeders are hard to reach, the bags too heavy for the kids to maneuver, or the birdbath too far from the hose, pretty soon someone will lose patience and object to being involved.

Hang different types of feeders at different heights and near enough to your house so you can watch the birds at relatively close range. You can use empty coffee cans and homemade funnels (cut the bottom off a large soft drink bottle) for feeder-filling convenience. Don’t be discouraged if you have just put up a new feeder and the birds don’t flock to it immediately. Because birds recognize food by sight, it can take a while for them to locate a new source. Try putting aluminum foil on the ground underneath the feeder to reflect the sunlight. If you already have other feeders, put the new one nearby until the birds discover it. Bird feeding activity attracts other species, so when you add a specialty feeder (such as a thistle feeder for finches) to your feeding station, it probably will not take long for new birds to find it.

Open water in freezing weather will attract as many, or more birds, as a well-stocked feeder! Birds use it to help keep them warmer in winter! By cleaning their feathers and then grooming them with natural oils, our feathered friends are able to help insulate their bodies from cold. You can keep water thawed with a submersible heater placed directly in the water; it is economical and safe as long as you use a high quality, outdoor extension cord to plug the heater into an electrical source. As a firm believer in providing water year round, there are many options on the market to suit the need.

Remember that, for the sake of the bird’s health, it is always important to keep the feeders and the ground beneath them cleaned up of old seed that can harbor disease. So fill your feeders and enjoy the show!

See you in the garden…
Sandi Hillermann McDonald