Tips for the Garden - March 2020

          Spring is almost here!!!!!!  What a wonderful feeling to be able to spend more time outside enjoying what Mother Nature is unfolding before our eyes. The lengthening of days is a welcome site and the warming sun on our faces is also a very great feeling.

Mowing time is around the corner.  Thin spots and bare patches in the lawn can be over seeded now if you don’t intend to use a crabgrass pre- venter on your lawn. Last summer’s heat and drought may make this a necessity this spring, if you missed the opportunity last fall.

          If you don’t over seed, now is the time to apply Fertilome Crabgrass + Lawn Food. We have long summer seasons here and recommend that you make two applications of this product (4-6 weeks apart) to keep your yards crabgrass free this summer. 

          Begin spring cleanup of perennial beds now. Cut perennials to 3” above the ground. Remove damaged foliage and old flower stalks. Ornamental grasses and hardy hibiscus can be pruned back to 6” above the ground as well.

          Once flower beds have been cleaned up, re-mulching can be done. Be sure not to mulch on the crowns of plants. Dry feed beds with a granular fertilizer, such as Osmocote, and apply a pre-emergent if you do not plan to plant any flower seeds. Pre-emergent products will put down a barrier over your flower beds that keep weed seeds from germinating, making weeding an easier job this summer. Divide summer and fall blooming perennials now, along with ornamental grasses if you so desire.

          Plant/sow peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, collards, turnips, potatoes, spinach, onion sets, beets, carrots, and parsley outside this month. Set out broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower and pansy transplants now. This month is also great for setting out strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, grapes and fruit trees.

          Start seeds indoors this month for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. And houseplants can still be repotted. Continue to check houseplants for over wintering insect populations.

          Nesting boxes for bluebirds can be set up as well as Purple Martin houses. Bluebird boxes are best at about 5’ off the ground on a fence post in the open with the entry hole facing away from prevailing winds. Purple Martins return to our zone 6 region between St. Patrick’s Day and the end of the month. So, now is the time to clean out those houses and be prepared.

          It is time to go, so we will “See you in the garden!!”

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - June 2014

 

            Let’s talk PERENNIALS! June is National Perennial Gardening Month.  Perennials are plants that grow and flower every year, and only need to be planted once!  They die back to the ground in the fall, but the roots remain alive and will produce new foliage in the spring. A wide range of sizes, flower colors and blooming times are available to fit any size garden.  Most perennials are considered low maintenance and just need some general care to keep them happy and healthy.

            It is important to choose plants that are appropriate to your garden site. You need to know whether it is a sun or shade garden.  Remove any grass or weeds from the area you wish to plant. Good drainage is essential for successful gardens. Amend the soil with Missouri Botanical Garden Compost, also known as Black Gold, locally available. This will help improve drainage and aeration. Prepare the bed to a depth of 18” to allow for maximum root development. Fertilizer can be mixed into the soil prior to planting.

            Perennials should receive 1-2” of water each week to develop a deep root system. A soaker hose works well for this purpose and saves water usage. Fertilize in Early Spring when new growth begins. During the growing season, fertilize once a month. Mulch should be applied after planting to help hold in moisture and reduce weeds. Apply 2” over the soil, leaving 2-3” of space around the base of the plant. Additional mulch applied in winter is also recommended, especially for new plantings.

            The art of deadheading is removing the faded, spent flowers on a plant. It will help lengthen the bloom season of many plants as well as improves the appearance of the plant. Some perennials with attractive seedpods such as Rudbeckia, Sedum, and Ornamental Grasses can be left alone. Once the initial display of flowering has ended, cut back the entire plant by two-thirds. This will help promote additional blooms.

            I hope this information gives you the desire to plant some perennial color and texture in your yard! There has been a “Perennial of the Year” named by the Perennial Plant Association since 1991. These varieties are tried and true plants. You may check out the list at www.perennialplant.org.

 

Here is a list of other duties to you can attend to this month:

·         Watch for the outbreak of bagworms on garden plants, especially junipers.  Then spray affected plants with Permethrin.

·         Deadhead bulbs and spring perennials as blossoms fade.

·         Repeat plantings of corn and beans to extend the harvest season.

·         Fertilize Zoysia grass now while actively growing.

·         Renovate strawberries after harvest. Mow the rows; thin out excess plants; remove weeds; fertilize and apply mulch for weed control.

·         Plant tropical water lilies and lotus when water temps are above 70 degrees.

·         Prune spring flowering trees and shrubs before month’s end.

·         Spray roses with a fungicide to prevent black spot disease.

·         Continue pinching back mums till July 4^th to promote bushy growth and good fall color.

·         Water turf as needed to prevent drought stress.

·         Mow lawns frequently enough to remove no more than one-third the total height per mowing.

·         Continue enjoying the antics of the wildlife in your yard and gardens by continuing to supply food and water sources for them.

·         Change hummingbird nectar weekly to prevent fungus (1 part sugar to 4 parts water—no food coloring please).

            Enjoy your harvest………………………….see you in the garden.

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - August 2012

            August………besides vacations, other activities that will pull you away from your list of gardening duties are fairs, festivals, family outings, and back to school preparations.  It really is a good thing that August is a slow month for working in your landscape.

            Your main tasks for this month begin with the letter W.  Weeding and watering.  Both tasks are pretty self-explanatory.  However, I feel the need to explain them to some extent. It is important to stay on top of the weeds.  If you let them get ahead of you and they go to seed, you are going to have hundreds more to deal with this fall and next spring.  Spraying weeds in landscape beds with an herbicide such as Roundup is one of the easiest ways to rid of weeds.    When using herbicides be sure to read and follow all label directions thoroughly.  They are written for your protection.  Generally, it is best to pull weeds that are growing in and immediately around your desirable plants, and spray those that are “in the open”. 

            As far as watering goes, it has been an extremely tough moisture year, so slow deep watering at the base of desirable trees and shrubs on a weekly basis is very important. Try to eliminate drought stress on your plants.  Weak plants open up avenues for disease and insects to overcome.  The drought we are experiencing actually goes back to spring of 2011.  Do you remember the very wet and cool spring of 2011?  Boy, I do.  Well we went into a dry summer, than a dry fall, and then we essentially had no snow this past winter and than a very dry spring of 2012.  Our water table is very low.  So please take care of your desirable plants with slow soaking waterings.  If you have questions, do not hesitate to give us a call.

            Bugs, they really bug me, and some of them can really mess up your plants.  Before you grab that bottle of insecticide and run out and spray every bug in sight, it is important that you identify the bug that is bugging you.  Most insecticides can’t tell the difference between a beneficial insect like a honey bee and the destructive spider mite.  Therefore, it is important that you know what bug you are trying to kill and the best method to do it.  If you collect some samples of your bug to bring in to be identified, please put them in a Ziploc bag and seal it before bringing it in.  Once we ID your pest, we can tell you the best way to control it.

            Mowing the lawn is another task that continues in August.  Due to the usually hot and dry conditions that are the norm in August, you may be able to space your mowings further apart.  It is also beneficial to let the grass grow longer to help shade the roots. 

            If you are thinking about a new addition to your landscape this fall, now is the time to talk to your favorite landscape designer.  Your designer can discuss your needs with you, design the changes or new additions, and get you on the schedule for a fall installation.

            This spring if you tried your hand at seasonal vegetable or square foot gardening, here are a few ways you can enjoy a fall garden.  Carry Tomatoes, Peppers and Basil over in your fall garden.  Direct sow Beets, Radishes, Peas, and Spinach now where other spring crops such as Broccoli and Cauliflower have come and gone for this year.  It is best to replant nursery starts of Broccoli and Cauliflower, and not sow them from seed this time of year.

            Last but not least, take care of yourself.  In the heat that is referred to as August, it is easy to over exert yourself.  Drink plenty of fluids and rest in the shade as needed.

See you next month……….in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - March 2012

Spring is almost here!! What a wonderful feeling to be able to spend more time outside enjoying what Mother Nature is unfolding before our eyes. The lengthening of days is a welcome site, and the warm sun on our faces feels great. We “spring forward” with Daylight Savings Time on Sun., March 11 this year. That in itself is exciting.

March welcomes ‘Spring’, and it will be met with open arms!! This is the month to open up the gardens and get things in shape for the new growing season, which means there is plenty that can be done. To name a few; mowing time is upon us; have you sharpened those mower blades? To keep that lawn looking fantastic, it is time to add Fertilizer with Crabgrass Prevention. Make sure to follow directions and do not try to skimp on the amount of product used, so you get great coverage from the Crabgrass Prevention. If you feel you need to over-seed the lawn, check with the professionals on proper steps for spring treatments. Most crabgrass preventers will also prevent new grass seed from germinating.

Clean up those perennial beds and cut down all Liriope and Ornamental Grasses to about 3-5” above the ground. Once this has been done, it is time to re-mulch your shrub and flower beds. Top-dress these areas with a slow release fertilizer as well, such as Osmocote. Do not put mulch or fertilizer too close to the crowns of plants. You could cause either rot or burning of the plant crown.

Nesting boxes for Bluebirds and Purple Martin houses should be put out early this month. Purple Martins return to our area between St. Patrick’s Day and the end of the month. So now is the time to be prepared. Are you considering doing some vegetable gardening this year? Well there is no better time than now to start those preparations. You can start seed in the house for plants such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. Plant or sow seed for peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, collards, turnips, potatoes, spinach, onion sets, beets, carrots, and parsley outside this month. Set out broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and pansy transplants now. This month is also good to set out strawberries, blueberries, blackberries grapes and other fruiting plants. It is likely we will see an influx of home gardening this year because its popularity is growing. It can be done in containers on the patio, as square foot gardens, or large plot gardening. There is nothing better than a home grown tomato!! Check out our website for instructions on these items, www.hillermann.com.

Here is a fun project for the family to try --‘Taters in a Basket’. Have you ever tried growing potatoes in tough clay soil? The results are usually less than bad. However, here is the perfect solution for growing great potatoes. Grow them in a pot. Now, whether you’ve got clay soil, live in an apartment, or don’t have a garden at all, you can grow potatoes the ole’ yard boy way. And that’s in a container.

Here is what you will need:
1. The container, I like to use bushel baskets. They breathe well, allow for good drainage and look great! However, any container, plastic, wood or clay will work as long as it has good drainage and is at least 14-18 inches wide and at least 10-12 inches deep.
2. Soil-less potting mix works best. Use the good stuff for better results. If you have a compost pile, good compost will work too. Finely shredded is best. People have even used straw and ground leaves.
3. An all purpose garden food such as Osmocote is great.
4. Seed potatoes - these aren’t the ones you buy from the grocery store. They can be found at the garden center and are used specifically for growing potatoes. Do not use potatoes from the produce department at the grocery store; they have been treated with a growth inhibitor to keep them from sprouting.

Fill the bottom of your pot with 2-3 inches of soil-less mix or compost. Take a large seed potato, or a couple medium sized, cut up into pieces that contain the eyes, and evenly distribute those on top of the soil-less mix. You can plant 6-8-10 pieces with eyes per basket. If you’re not sure about the ‘eyes’, you can plant whole potatoes, or cut them in half and plant the halves. Cover with another 3-4 inches of soil-less mix, add the fertilizer and water in thoroughly, and place in the sun. Water as needed, thoroughly moistening the soil, then letting it dry before watering again. Once your potatoes start to grow, water regularly, being careful not to over water, which can cause the tubers to rot.

When your potatoes are growing, you have a couple options: 1) As the potatoes grow, keep adding soil-less mix or compost to the container, keeping about 4 inches of foliage showing. Continue this process until the container is filled to within 1 inch of the top of the basket. 2) Let the foliage grow until it’s approximately 3-4 inches above the basket, and then fill in around the foliage with your soil-less mix or compost unit the basket is full. Now you’re set for growing potatoes! Let your potatoes grow all summer. Don’t forget to keep them fed too. Come late summer or fall when the foliage starts to yellow, cut the foliage off, dump out your soil, and you’ll have a basket full of taters! It is that easy. Good Luck!!

Now it is time to go, so we will “See you in the garden!”
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - August 2011

August brings us the dog days of summer... there is no doubt about that. If you have not started enjoying “Outdoor Living,” it is NOT TOO LATE. With the price of gas lately, it is only understandable that more and more people are retreating to their own backyards and spending vacations at home this year. So, forget the stress of planning and traveling and enjoy your own “Stay-cation!” Our designers are here to help you with ideas that will turn your yard into an outdoor oasis. Look for inspiration at every “independent lawn and garden retailer.” Add patios, walkways, walls, water, hammocks and more!

Be sure to visit the Washington Town & Country Fair this year (August 3rd-7th). Don’t miss these two educational areas: the Agri-Land booth (near the livestock barns) and Hillermann’s “Gardening Solutions” (near the North Entrance Gate). Both of these booths offer hands on learning opportunities (for kids and adults) and helpful handout sheets on outdoor activities and gardening!

Here are additional tips for the heat and drought period of August:

• It is not too late to put up Japanese Beetle traps to catch those pesky critters in a natural, safe way.
• You can still apply lawn insecticides until August 15 to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.
• Compost or till under residues and debris from harvested crops.
• Prop up the branches of your fruit trees that are threatening to break under the weight of a heavy crop.
• Keep deadheading your spent annual and perennial flowers for continued blooms into fall.
• Feed hardy garden mums and asters for the last time this season.
• Monitor plants for spider mite activity. Hose affected plants off with a forceful spray of water, or spray with Bonide Eight (with Permethrin). To test for spider mites, hold a piece of white paper under the leaves. Tap on the leaves and then run your hand over the piece of white paper. If you see evidence of red streaks on the paper, you have an infestation of spider mites!
• Roses should receive no further nitrogen fertilizer after the end of August to prevent the production of late tender growth that could be damaged by fall frosts.
• Deep root water established trees around the drip line (this is where the edge of the branches stop) to help alleviate stress on trees going into winter.
• Soak shrubs periodically during dry spells with enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches.
• Toward the end of August, dormant lawns should be soaked to encourage strong fall growth.
• Prune to shape hedges for the last time this season.
• Once bagworms reach full size, insecticides are ineffective. Pruning off or pulling and burning or discarding of large bags provides better control for next year.
• Watch for fall webworm activity. Apply Fertilome bagworm and Tent Caterpillar Spray when webs are first spotted. Rip open the web bag before spraying for best control.
• Cultivate Strawberries and apply weed preventer immediately, after fertilizing.
• Protect ripening fruits from birds by covering plants with bird netting. (This is a poly type product readily available at Garden Centers).
• Pinch the growing tips of gourds once the adequate fruit set amount is achieved. This directs energy into the ripening fruits, rather than vine production.
• Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower transplants should be set out for the fall garden. Also, sow seeds of lettuce, radish, beans, beets, spinach and turnips now. (Spinach may germinate better if the seeds are refrigerated.)
• Lawn renovation and over-seeding time is right around the corner. I will discuss this more in September.
• For additional information about garden tips for summer and all seasons, check out this website www.hillermann.com.

Time to go... See you in the Garden!!
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - April 2011

Vegetable gardening is making a comeback since food has made dramatic price increases over the past year. This is also because of the fact that more and more people are concerned with what they put on the family table. When you grow it yourself, you control what goes in the soil and on the plants, and you get to pick a much broader selection of vegetable varieties. The supermarket may have 2-3 varieties of tomatoes, where you can choose from dozens of varieties to plant yourself. Why are there more varieties available at garden centers? Tomatoes don’t ship well, and they taste a whole lot better home grown. In fact, a tomato from your own garden is the ultimate standard for taste. Some, who grow them annually, never buy them from the supermarket, because they pale in comparison to what they can grow in the summer.

If you’re thinking of growing a vegetable garden this year, you are not alone. If you’re a little timid, there is help available. Start small and expand as your interest and time permits. No summertime garden is complete without tomatoes, and the perfect accompaniment to fresh tomatoes on your table is basil. If your garden has anything this year, consider both. If you want a little more, some bush cucumbers will fit in small gardens, and so will the bush summer squash varieties. Most of these bush varieties can be planted in nontraditional garden areas like flower beds or as a small addition to the landscape. In short, a vegetable garden can find its way into every area of your home’s landscape. Whether it’s confined to its own area, combined into the annual or perennial gardens that you already have, or planted in containers on your deck or patio - it will provide the ultimate in fresh vegetable taste, and the safest vegetables you can produce for your family table.

The lengthening of daylight also seems to brighten peoples’ spirits and relieve some stress as we can now move outdoors and enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer. Therefore, I invite you to go outside and “dig in.” Here are other areas of consideration:
• Remove winter mulch now from your rose bushes. Trim out dead and diseased canes. Cut all other green wood to about 18” on Floribunda and tea rose varieties. A 24-30” height is good on shrub roses.
• Fertilize your roses with a slow release fertilizer and begin fungicide treatments to control black spot disease.
• When Crabapples are in bloom, hardy annuals can be planted.
• Transplant trees, shrubs and perennials early in the month for best success.
• Spots and bare patches in the lawn can still be over seeded if you did not apply a Crabgrass Preventer. During spring there are more issues to be aware of when seeding a lawn rather than in the fall. Talk to a professional about seed choices and procedures.
• Easter lilies can be planted after they finish blooming. Set the bulbs 2-3” deeper then they are in the pot.
• Liquid weed control should be applied this month to control dandelions, henbit and other broadleaf weeds. New grass from seed MUST be mowed 3 times to make it strong enough to withstand weed chemicals.
• Prune spring flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.
• Asparagus and rhubarb harvests begin. Keep your hoe sharp!!
• Start cucumber, squash, cantaloupe and watermelon seeds indoors this month.
• Shrubs such as Crepe Myrtle, Butterfly Bush, and Hardy Hibiscus can be pruned back to green wood this month. REMINDER—that these plants leaf out very late (early May) and should not be considered to have died or be replaced until after Mother’s Day.
• Termites begin swarming. Termites can be distinguished from ants by their thick waists and straight antennae. Ants have slender waists and elbowed antennae.
• Apply Bayer Advance Insect Control this month to control borers in shade trees and shrubs.
• Remove old tree wraps from trees planted last fall so you don’t make a place for insects to harbor.
• Mole young are born in chambers deep underground.
• Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit trees that are in bloom. Bees are in danger and it is very important to be careful around them.
• Ornamental Pear trees need to be sprayed “during” the flowering stage to prevent “Fire Blight” disease.
• Water gardens may be cleaned out and the water changed. Do not scrub the walls since this will remove accumulated beneficial bacteria. Begin adding additional bacteria and barley bales now to begin the natural cycle of pond clean-up.
• Hang out hummingbird feeders the first of this month. Use a solution of 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. Change the solution frequently to keep if from fermenting. Food coloring is not needed nor is it recommended for the hummingbirds.
• The last week of April is a good time to try an early sowing of warm season crops such as green beans, sweet corn, etc. Transplants of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and sweet potatoes can also begin being planted outdoors.
• Container gardening is good choice for flower and vegetable gardening if space is in short supply. It can be done by anyone, anywhere, check it out!!
• “Natural Gardening” is a wave of the future………..keep your family safe and check out what organic options are available to you when gardening this year. There are many.

Well, time is running short…see you in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

February Tips for the Garden 2010

Starting from seed……………
I’m not a fan of winter. There is nobody more excited than I am to see those first signs of spring, like the appearance of crocus. They pop up, and then I know I’m down the home stretch. It is at this time that I can also begin planning my vegetable containers. Part of my planning is deciding which vegetables I should start from seed. During these early months before spring is also the time that you should begin planting many of the summer vegetables you want to start from seed. Some seeds should be started indoors. There are others that you will be able to plant directly outside into the ground. Follow these simple steps to sprout all sorts of tasty treats this coming season.

Starting seed indoors: here is what you need to get started:
Something to plant in - peat pots, planting trays, and peat pellets work best. Just make sure the container drains well and is large enough that it will not dry out between watering.
Seedling potting mix - you will want to use a potting soil that is designed for starting seeds. Fertilome seed starting soil is the perfect medium for germinating seeds. The mix is designed to promote better root development in young plants.

Seeds - there are so many to choose from. For most varieties, plan on growing 6-8 weeks indoors, but check packet directions for accurate growing times. Also, check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended. Some seeds are recommended to be sown directly into the ground, so make sure to read the directions.

A place to grow - seeds need a warm place in order to germinate. After they sprout, sufficient light is critical. A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it is not too hot or cold.
A cover - if your planting tray did not come with a clear plastic lid, you can use plastic wrap to cover your finished tray.

Spray bottle - you’ll want a spray bottle to be able to mist your soil to keep it moist.
Now you are ready to plant seeds. Follow these easy steps for success!
Fill your planting tray or peat pots with seedling potting mix. Pre-moisten the mix with clean water. Peat pellets are fun to use if you have young children. When you add water the peat pellet transforms from a flat disc to a tall self watering pot.

Place your seeds in the soil. Larger seeds can be planted individually into the tray or peat pot. Smaller seeds can be very difficult to see. Sprinkle 3-4 seeds over the soil in each pot. Press in or lightly cover the seeds with potting mix. Do not cover them deeply with soil.

Cover your planting tray with a clear tray lid or with clear plastic wrap. You can also place plastic wrap over the tops of individual pots if you don’t have a tray. Place the tray or pots in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Make sure that your soil remains warm and moist.

When the seeds begin to sprout, remove the plastic wrap. Turn the tray every two days to keep the plants growing straight. Plants will always grow toward the sunlight.

Thin or transplant the seedlings when they get 2”-3” tall and have developed true leaves. This should happen after about 2-4 weeks. Thinning is done by gently pulling up the young plant or pinching off the stem. Transplant them to slightly larger containers to allow the roots to continue to develop. Lift seedlings carefully by digging them out with a fork or spoon, taking care not to disturb the tender roots. Keep transplants out of direct sun for a couple of days to prevent wilting.

Feed with a liquid soluble plant food diluted to half strength and remember to keep your soil moist, but not soggy.

When the danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings into the garden, but they must first be “hardened off”. Set the tray outdoors in shade for 2-3 hours a day, slowly exposing them to full sunlight. After the week is over, transplant the seedlings into the garden. Remember to use a transplant fertilizer when planting them.

Planting seeds outdoors; after danger of frost has passed (generally May 1st in Franklin County, MO), there are many seeds you can plant directly into the ground.

To begin, choose a spot that gets plenty of sunlight and where the soil drains well. Prepare the soil by raking the area clear of leaves and other debris. Dig the garden to loosen the soil down to about 12”. Add a transplant fertilizer at this time.

Make planting rows with a garden trowel or a pointed object, like a pencil to make indentations in the soil. Some seeds like cucumbers may require you to make the soil into mounds to plant the seeds. Plant the seeds according to the spacing directions on the back of the seed packet. Large seeds can be planted individually. Some seeds, like carrots are quite small. These smaller seeds can be mixed with a bit of sand and sprinkled over the area. You will want to read the directions on the seed packet to know how deep to plant the seeds. Attach the empty packet to a stick at the end of the row if you wish to identify what is planted there.

Water the area with a gentle flow from a watering can or hose. Be careful not to shoot the seeds right out of the soil with too strong of water pressure. Keep the garden moist (not wet), until the plants are up and growing.

Final tip:
Whether planting a seed straight into the soil or planting a transplant, don’t forget to bait for slugs. They will feast on our young plant before the plant grows big enough to feed you! Plus, keep a photo journal or a log of the weekly progress in your garden. Once the sun decides to finally return you’ll be surprised at how quickly your tiny little seedlings start mature and you can begin to harvest the fruits and vegetables of your labor.
Now, have fun planning for spring!

See you in the garden...
Sandi Hillermann McDonald