12/30/10

Garden Solutions - January 11


Winter is upon us in full force. Only 78 days until spring arrives! A combination of sleet and snow has made many food sources impossible to reach for many of the wild birds in mid Missouri. In normal winter conditions, most birds have ways of coping with the cold. To help survive cold nights, Chickadees can lower their normal 108-degree body temperature by 12-15 degrees to conserve energy. By dawn, they, like many birds, will quickly dart to a food source to fill their empty stomachs. That is why early morning and late evenings are some of the ‘largest crowds’ at bird feeders. Because most normal food sources are now either ice encrusted or covered by snow, wild birds need and greatly benefit by mid Missouri residents feeding them during times like this.

A good thing to feed the wild birds is hi-energy foods like black oil sunflower seeds, tree nut pieces and suet that give birds more energy per ounce consumed. While something is better than nothing, there is problem with cheap mixes full of oats and wheat or things like bread and cereal that people sometimes throw on the snow. These foods are not only low in energy, they are also the favorites of nuisance, non-native birds like Starlings and English Sparrows that compete, not only for food, but also nesting cavities that many native birds utilize in winter to stay warm. Several Central Missouri songbirds like Bluebirds and Chickadees often sleep in groups on extremely cold nights in cavities or nest boxes transferring heat from one body to the next. It is not uncommon for 6-9 Bluebirds to emerge from one box. A challenge of feeding suet is that Starlings love it. Feed suet in upside down suet feeders and hang them high as Starlings have a hard time hanging upside down to feed and Woodpeckers, Chickadees, Titmice, Nuthatches, and other desirable songbirds can easily hang upside down for feeding.

One need of wild birds often overlooked by consumers in cold weather is the need for ‘open water’. The main reason water is needed is that to keep warm, birds fluff out their feathers so they can better capture a ‘layer of air’ that acts as heated insulation. Matted, dirty feathers can’t be fluffed out, making a bird feel much like how a human feels that wears a down insulated jacket that’s all matted up and not very warm. That is why they need water throughout winter to bathe as well as drink. There are many birdbath heaters and heated birdbaths for as little or less that $20 to help keep water available for wild birds and cost pennies per day in electricity to run.

Does the weather keep you from getting out to your feeders? Just fling a spray of black oil seeds or a good quality wild bird mix out of a bucket or trash can and let it fly out across the top of the snow. Dozens of your feathered friends will soon add brilliant flashes of red and blue, and gray and white across the snow and you’ll hear their melodious songs as they sing ‘thanks’ to you for helping them survive.

If you can tolerate the cold weather, there are a number of things that you can do this month in your landscape that will lighten your workload for the rest of the season. The main item is pruning or thinning of your woody ornamentals. Deciduous trees such as maples, oaks, ash, etc., can be pruned at this time. Interior, broken, or crossing branches should be removed now while you can see exactly what you are removing. The general rule of thumb is that you should not touch spring flowering trees and shrubs at this time of year.

If the weather is extremely bad this month, then snow and/or ice removal are going to be the big tasks for this month. Heavy accumulations of snow or ice can easily damage plants. Dump a snow shovel full of wet snow on top of some of your shrubs and you may end up replacing the broken mass next spring. Snow plows can also do quite a bit of damage to plantings and lawn areas. Use location stakes with flags to show where your driveways and walkways are as well as where to “dump” excess snow. If you have to deal with ice, be extremely careful with the melting compound you use. Rock salt is the most widely used compound and it has the least temperature range for its effectiveness. In addition, rock salt will destroy concrete sidewalks, driveways, and concrete pavers. It will also kill most shrubs, perennials, and lawns. There are many other compounds used for melting ice that won’t damage your concrete or kill your plants. I recommend Calcium chloride or potassium chloride products. If you choose to use these, please read the labels thoroughly. Some work in very low temperatures, but are harmful to pets and wildlife. Others only work when the temperature is between 20 and 32 degrees. You can also use products such as birdseed, sawdust, and non-clumping cat litter to provide traction. Of course, these will not melt the ice, but they will not kill your plants, pets, or concrete.

If you have all of your pruning done, the snow or ice has been removed, and you still have time left to work on your outside to do list, don’t forget about your tools. If you haven’t already done so, it is time to thoroughly go over your lawn mower and make sure that it is already to go and will start on the first pull next spring. The same goes for all outdoor power equipment. Clean all of your hand tools, (pruners, shovels, rakes, etc.), removing any dirt, leaves, sap, from them. If they have wooden handles, inspect the handles for cracks, nicks, or splintering and either replace or repair them as needed. If they have a metal handle, check the welds for signs of breakage and have them repaired. If the tool is a cutting type, sharpen the edges as needed.

Time flies fast, so enjoy this winter preparing for spring, and we will “See you in the garden.”

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

12/2/10

Garden Solutions - December 2010


“The month of December brings the holiday season and warm thoughts of family, friends and community. I would like to say “Thank You,” and I wish you and yours a “Blessed Holiday Season” with all the best in the New Year!” Furthermore, fall will turn into winter this month. With the addition of fire pits in our outdoor living rooms, evenings outdoors can still be enjoyable sampling hot chocolate or cider with friends around the blaze of a comfortable warm fire. You can even gather the kids for the making of s’mores! Enjoy the crisp cool weather.

Plants get “chapped lips” too! Cold, dry winter winds and bright winter sun make our skin chapped and unhealthy. Those winds have a devastatingly similar effect on your plants, which are out in the winds all winter. No wonder your evergreens don’t look so great come spring. This drying effect is called desiccation and is often the most devastating aspect of winter damage on plants in our Midwest region. To fight desiccation, first choose the right plants for windy, dry areas. Especially try to avoid placing broadleaf evergreens, such as azaleas, in places shady in summer but sunny and windy in winter. Second, make sure to water your evergreens well through early December, before the ground freezes and plants can no longer “drink” from the soil. Third, mulch your plants for winter to retain soil moisture as well as soil temperature. Fourth, use an anti-desiccant. These products coat leaves and needles to slow down the loss of moisture. One of the best products to use is Wilt Stop by Bonide. This product is a natural polymer that covers plants with a FLEXIBLE coating to lock moisture in the plant tissue. The flexible coating is important to keep the coating on plants as they bend and sway in the wind. Wilt Stop lasts 45-60 days so apply the first treatment in early December and again in early February.

Here are a few tips on winter houseplant care. When the heat goes on and the daylight becomes shorter, houseplants sometimes begin to yellow and drop their leaves. It may be necessary to move the plants to a different place in the home and give them different treatment from that given during the summer. Flowering plants need at least half a day of direct sunlight to develop flower buds. Cacti and many succulents require a sunny location, and coleus and crotons need direct sun to maintain the decorative color. Foliage plants, such as ivy, philodendron, and dieffenbachia plants, do well in indirect light rather than direct sunlight. The ideal temperatures for foliage plants are 68-70 degrees during the day and slightly lower at night. Flowering plants retain blossoms longer at lower temperatures. Remember, windowsill locations are much colder during the winter and plants that did well there in summer and fall may need to be moved to prevent them from getting chilled. The amount of water the houseplants need declines during winter, so increase the amount of time between watering. Reduce fertilizing as well; flowering plants should be fertilized half as often and foliage plants should only be fertilized if needed.

December also brings the preparation time for the Holidays. Poinsettias are an all time favorite to add a festive look to any décor. Follow these simple poinsettia basics for success. They should have sun for at least ½ the day and keep them away from drafts, registers and radiators. The soil should dry only slightly between thorough watering. Be sure to punch holes in decorative foil wraps to prevent soggy soil conditions. Are you looking for that unusual color? Poinsettias can be painted to match any décor you desire. Here is another idea, try one painted to match colors for your sports team of choice. The possibilities are endless. In addition, you need not worry about the myth of poinsettias being poisonous; there is extensive scientific research that gives the poinsettia a clean bill of health. Enjoy one this year yourself.

Along with these Holiday tips, here are a few other ideas for the month:
• Hollies may be trimmed now and the trimmings can be used in holiday decorations.
• Use caution when spreading salt or calcium on ice or snow packed walks and driveways. Salt can damage lawns and plantings, calcium is much safer to use. Be sure to designate areas to for piling snow from plowing in advance to prevent damage to trees, shrubs and lawns.
• Clean and oil all garden hand tools before storing for the winter.
• Winterize all power equipment before storage. Change the oil and lubricate moving parts. Either drain fuel systems or mix gas-stabilizing additive into the tank.
• You can continue planting bulbs until frost in the ground prevents you from digging.
• Perennial beds and roses should have been put to rest for winter by now. If not, cut back, clean up and mulch. Roses should be mulched 10-12” deep.
• Continue to feed our fine feathered friends and place heated birdbaths with fresh water out for them.

Again, I wish you and your family a very Blessed Christmas season. Let’s get to work on planning those beautiful garden scenes for next year!!!

See you in the Garden…

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

10/29/10

November Garden Solutions 2010

It is sad to watch the garden fading into winter, but at least we don’t have to say goodbye. Spring will return, as naturally as the sun will rise tomorrow morning. All we have to do is get the garden prepped so that it can rest until its renewal a few months from now. Here is a to-do list that will help you prepare your garden for its winter’s nap.

Clean out and cut back. Loads of dead leaves and rotten stalks on plants can harbor disease, even through the winter season. But, don’t cut all your plants back to the ground, and don’t pick up every leaf. It is a great treat to leave some seed heads on plants for the winter birds and ornamental grasses for their winter art in the garden. Leaving some plant stalks to protect the crowns of tender perennials is also beneficial.

Cover up. Mulch is the best winter protection for your plants. Wood mulch is the most common. Wait until the ground has frozen slightly, usually around Thanksgiving for us, to ensure the plants are in their dormancy state. If the snow falls before you get the opportunity to get the job done, mulch over the snow. Some woody perennials and shrubs may benefit from soil mounded around the base. These plants, in our area include, roses, crape myrtle, butterfly bushes to name a few. Tender shrubs may need to be screened or wrapped with burlap or something similar, not plastic.

Dig in. There is still time to plant some garden jewels this month. Trees, shrubs and plants that have a root ball larger than a gallon can be put into the ground. In addition, now is the time to plant those spring beauties we call bulbs. To enjoy the beauty and bright colors of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils as well as crocus and alliums, plant them NOW. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks of cold soil temperatures. Therefore, in our area you can plant up to the Christmas season, as long as frost hasn’t built up in the soil.

Write down. You will find that a garden log or journal will be very helpful next spring when you’re trying to identify those first tentative green shoots and wondering whether you divided that Hosta plant last fall or should you do it now. Draw a basic diagram of each bed, noting the plants and adding photos where you can. A little extra effort with your journal will pay off next spring.

Here are a few other duties to think about this month of November. Continue mowing lawn grasses as long as they keep growing, 3” is a good height. Apply Winterizer fertilizer to lawns to strengthen plant stems and roots for winter growth and early spring green up.

Cover garden ponds with bird or pond netting to prevent leaves from fouling the water. Oxygen depletion from rotting organic matter can cause a winterkill of pond fish. Take steps to prevent garden ponds from freezing solid in winter. Using a floating garden heater in the pond will lessen the chance of ice damage.

Set up bird feeders. Birds also appreciate a source of unfrozen drinking water during the winter. Use one of the many styles of birdbath heaters or heated birdbaths available at garden centers. When feeding the birds, set up a variety of feeder types to get the best assortment of birds to come to your yard. Tube feeders are good for songbirds, platform feeders are good for cardinals and larger birds, and suet is a great source of fat and energy for woodpeckers and all bird types.

Enjoy the antics of wildlife and the beauty of plant art in the garden during this upcoming winter season. I will give you more to look forward to in the winter garden in December. Until then, Happy Thanksgiving to all and enjoy the outdoors as much as possible.

See you in the garden,
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

10/5/10

Garden Solutions

This month in “Garden Solutions,” I am going to focus on trees and pumpkins. Quite a different combination, but both need attention this time of year.

The Many Benefits of Planting Trees

Most often, we plant trees to provide shade and add beauty to our landscape. These are great benefits, but trees also provide many less obvious benefits. Consider all the benefits listed below and remember fall is the perfect time to plant trees for an increased success rate next spring.

· Trees are perfect for planting as living memorials, to remind us of loved ones, or to commemorate significant events in our lives.
· Even though you may own the trees on your property, your neighborhood may benefit from them as well. Through careful planning, trees can be an asset to your entire community.
· Tree lined streets have a traffic calming effect, traffic moves more slowly and safely.
· Trees can be placed to screen unwanted views or noise from busy highways.
· Trees improve our air quality by filtering harmful dust and pollutants such as ozone, carbon monoxide, and sulfur dioxide from the air we breathe.
· Trees give off oxygen that we need to breathe.
· Trees reduce the amount of storm water runoff, which reduces erosion and pollution in our waterways and may reduce the effects of flooding.
· Many species of wildlife depend on trees for habitat. Trees provide food, protection, and homes for many birds and mammals.
· Well-placed trees can reduce your cooling costs in the summer by shading the south and west sides of your home. If deciduous trees are used, they will allow the sun to pass through and warm your home in the winter.
· Evergreen trees on the north side of your home and shrubs around the foundation of your home can act as a windbreak to reduce the cooling effects of winter winds.
· The value of a well landscaped home with mature healthy trees can be as much as 10% higher than a similar home with no or little landscaping. (Topping trees will reduce their value.)


Now let’s change the focus. This is the month for HALLOWEEN!!! What a great and fun time to decorate and enjoy the season with the children of the neighborhood. Here are “Tips for Selecting and Preserving Your Pumpkin.”

Selecting a Pumpkin

When selecting a pumpkin for a jack-o-lantern, choose one that does not have any bruises. Check for discoloration and soft spots. The size will not matter, however, to most children and some adults, bigger is better. You can always enlarge your pattern; shrinking a pattern can make the detail work too difficult.

Pumpkins that are more flat and do not roll well work the best. Look for pumpkins with a sturdy stem; this is the sign of a healthy pumpkin. Do not lift or carry the pumpkin by the stem, this can damage it and make it age faster. Check the bottom of the pumpkin to see if the base is damaged. Sometimes the bottom of pumpkins is thin and can get punctured. Then, bad things can grow in them. If the pumpkin feels heavy and sloshes, put it back. I once opened a pumpkin to find the insides had rotted and there was a slimy, smelly, liquid goo left behind.

Preserving and Firming Up a Pumpkin

There are ways to help keep your pumpkin fresher and firmer. If you place a pumpkin in a washtub of cold water, it will absorb the water and become very firm. Cut open the top of the pumpkin and clean out all the seeds. Fill a washtub, sink or large bucket with cold water, and soak the pumpkin in the cold water. If you have fine detail work to do, you may want to let your pumpkin soak overnight. This will firm up the pumpkin flesh and allow you to do carving that is more intricate. You can add a small amount of unscented Clorox bleach in the water to prevent premature mold and bacteria growth.

Once you have carved your pumpkin, you can add a thin amount of petroleum jelly on the exposed cut edges. This will help seal moisture in the flesh of the pumpkin. If the pumpkin dries out, it will shrivel. You can try to revive it by soaking it in a bath of cold water for one to eight hours. Longer is better. Overnight will not hurt.

You can prepare your pumpkins ahead of time and keep them fresh for a future party or gathering. Soak them first. Wrap them in plastic wrap to hold in the moisture and store them in the refrigerator (not the freezer). They will stay fresh this way for a very long time. Once you remove a wet pumpkin for display, you should immediately dry it off. This prevents mold from having a chance to grow.


Now, enjoy all that the month of October has to offer and I will…

See you in the garden.
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

8/25/10

Garden Solutions - September 2010

There is no better time of year than this abundant season to catch your bearings, reevaluate the year, enjoy the harvest and relax. It is also the best time to take a few moments to invest in your home. There are many simple tasks you can do now, that will save time in the spring when you are twice as busy.

The kids are back in school and off to college. That makes it a good time to get back towork in the yard and garden. Especially if you have put your outdoor living projects off this summer because of bonding, vacations and sports programs…...or hot, dry weather.

Our yards definitely DID suffer this summer. Thank goodness, the hottest month of the year is now behind us. Well, there is no better time to renovate and reseed than during this month of September. In fact, the perfect window of opportunity for lawn growth is August 15 - October 15. Even though it may be hot and dry, it is the perfect time of year to aerate and over seed established yards.

The process should be done as follows: Cut the lawn a little shorter than normal (2-3 inches). Then run over the yard with a core aerator (this machine pulls plugs out of the ground about the size of your little finger). This whole process works best after a good rain or a deep watering. The core aeration process helps with the soil aeration, lessens soil compaction and makes for better, stronger grass root systems. Now, run a renovator over the area. This machine slices the ground with many little teeth and will break down the dirt clods from the core aeration process and bring up any dead thatch in the area.

After the aeration process is completed, you are ready to sow your grass seed (use a 50% spread rate for a 50% stand of grass) and add fertilizer (a starter type fertilizer that is high in phosphorus is best). For a 50% stand of grass or less, you will not need additional cover such as straw. If you are over seeding bare areas or new lawn areas, you will need to straw these areas to hold moisture for seed protection. For the specific grass seed type, shop for seed specific to your area of need: shade, sun, part-shade and sun, etc. Check with your local independent garden center for special grass seed mixes that are specially blended for your region for the best performance.

Once you have sown the grass seed, you can apply a starter fertilizer. Then, add a Winterizer fertilizer to the entire area in late October or November. This whole process will “promise” you a beautiful strong lawn for spring of next year. Water is, of course, essential for this growth if Mother Nature does not cooperate. New lawn installations are also best at this time of year as well.

NOW PLANT, PLANT, PLANT
Fall in Missouri is the ideal time of year to plant all kinds of things from cool-season vegetables to turf grasses, and especially shrubs, evergreens or deciduous trees. Yet, when it comes to planting, many gardeners only think of the spring. Why is fall such an ideal time to plant? First, the warm soil in the fall helps encourage root growth. The roots continue to grow through our mild winters becoming well established by the spring. This makes fall plantings much better equipped to handle our heat and drought once summer finally arrives. Plus, our fall and spring rains help do the work in establishing your plants so you don’t have to do as much. During this time, there is also fewer pests and disease problems to attack your plant while it is young.

Planting trees in the fall of the year is perfect timing to get better results. Choosing varieties for that special spot should be given some thought. The Washington Urban Forestry Council has developed a “Tree List” that can be found on the City of Washington’s website (http://www.ci.washington.mo.us/) under City Departments, Parks & Recreation, and Urban Forestry Council. The list is broken down into different categories that make choosing a tree variety very easy. So plant a tree this fall. You will help the environment, lower your electric bills, and enhance your property value.

Now turn your focus to Fall Decorations….and change the Curb Appeal of your yard by giving it a face-lift for fall. Change out those summer containers and flowerbeds with fall bedding plants that work long into the fall season, which in our case here in Missouri can be thru mid November. You should be able to find such plants as pansies, ornamental cabbage, kale, Fall Magic annuals, ornamental grasses, hardy garden mums and MUCH more. Don’t forget to add in straw, corn stalks, pumpkins and gourds to give it a complete look. Extend the look of your outdoor room and enjoy the extended season.

Fall bulbs are available now and should be considered for spring color in your garden! So start thinking ahead to next year and get in on the action now.

*For additional information about fall gardening and tips, check out the following website: http://www.hillermann.com/.

Time to go………..See you in the Garden
Sandi Hillermann McDonald