Garden Solutions - November 2013

            Our fall season has been very dry. Even though the foliage on trees and shrubs is gone, the roots need moisture to build up spring buds and increase root growth. The amount of water needed may be less than when the foliage was on the plants, but water is still very important.

            It is sad to watch the garden fading into winter, but at least we don’t have to say goodbye. Spring will return, as naturally as the sun will rise tomorrow morning. All we have to do is get the garden prepped so that it can rest until its renewal a few months from now. Here is a to-do list that will help you prepare your garden for its winter’s nap.

            Clean out and cut back. Loads of dead leaves and rotten stalks on plants can harbor disease, even through the winter season. But, don’t cut all your plants back to the ground, and don’t pick up every leaf. It is a great treat to leave some seed heads on plants for the winter birds and ornamental grasses for their winter art in the garden.  Leaving some plant stalks to protect the crowns of tender perennials is also beneficial.

            Cover up. Mulch is the best winter protection for your plants. Wood mulch is the most common. Wait until the ground has frozen slightly, usually around Thanksgiving for us, to ensure the plants are in their dormancy state. If the snow falls before you get the opportunity to get the job done, mulch over the snow. Some woody perennials and shrubs may benefit from soil mounded around the base. These plants, in our area include, roses, crape myrtle, butterfly bushes to name a few. Tender shrubs may need to be screened or wrapped with burlap or something similar, not plastic.

            Dig in. There is still time to plant some garden jewels this month. Trees, shrubs and plants that have a root ball larger than a gallon can be put into the ground.

 

            In addition, now is the time to plant those spring beauties we call bulbs. To enjoy the beauty and bright colors of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils as well as crocus and alliums, plant them NOW. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks of cold soil temperatures. Therefore, in our area you can plant up to the Christmas season, as long as frost hasn’t built up in the soil. 

 

            Write down. You will find that a garden log or journal will be very helpful next spring when you’re trying to identify those first tentative green shoots and wondering whether you divided that Hosta plant last fall or should you do it now. Draw a basic diagram of each bed, noting the plants and adding photos where you can. A little extra effort with your journal will pay off next spring.

            Here are a few other duties to think about this month of November. Continue mowing lawn grasses as long as they keep growing, 3” is a good height. Apply Winterizer fertilizer to lawns to strengthen plant stems and roots for winter growth and early spring green up.

            Cover garden ponds with bird or pond netting to prevent leaves from fouling the water. Oxygen depletion from rotting organic matter can cause a winterkill of pond fish. Take steps to prevent garden ponds from freezing solid in winter. Using a floating garden heater in the pond will lessen the chance of ice damage.

            Set up bird feeders. Birds also appreciate a source of unfrozen drinking water during the winter. Use one of the many styles of birdbath heaters or heated birdbaths available at garden centers. When feeding the birds, set up a variety of feeder types to get the best assortment of birds to come to your yard. Tube feeders are good for songbirds, platform feeders are good for cardinals and larger birds, and suet is a great source of fat and energy for woodpeckers and all bird types.

            Enjoy the antics of wildlife and the beauty of plant art in the garden during this upcoming winter season. I will give you more to look forward to in the winter garden in December. Until then, Happy Thanksgiving to all and enjoy the outdoors as much as possible.

See you in the garden,

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - October 2013

FALL-THE PERFECT TIME TO GARDEN:

            Fall brings cooler air temperatures, continued warm soil temperatures, and more consistent rainfall - the perfect time to plant and transplant just about anything (especially trees) - and it is easier on us gardeners too! Tree planting is the most effective when it is done in the fall. This is because the tree roots continue to grow until the ground freezes and will grow again in spring allowing extra time for the tree to become established before our brutal summer weather hits. Trees should be fertilized towards the end of October, and tree fertilizer spikes placed at their drip line are a perfect choice. Use one tree spike per one inch of tree trunk diameter. This will make for beautiful foliage next spring!  (The diameter of the tree is a measurement found at a cross section of the trunk 12” above the ground.)

            Fall is also the best time to divide and transplant perennial clumps. Any spring or summer blooming perennial plants can be divided now. Make sure you prepare the area where the plants will be transplanted using some type of organic material, like cotton burr compost. Use compost at the rate of 1/3 compost to 2/3’s native soil for your garden projects. Cut back spent flower heads and foliage as it starts to die back for its winter dormant period. Leave ornamental grasses alone until early spring as their dried foliage will add a wispy, interesting texture to your winter landscape.

            Lawn seeding should be finished by October 15 to insure germination and plant growth yet this fall. Choose a seed mix for your specific lawn area: sun, shade, sun/shade, play, drought, etc. Fescue mixtures are best for durability for our area. Fescue blends should be spread at a rate of 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. on bare ground, and 2-3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. on a lawn with a 50% stand of grass. Be sure to aerate and renovate your yard when over seeding for the BEST results. Without these steps, it is like throwing grass seed on to concrete because our soil has such high clay content and compacts so easily.

            It’s time to plan and plant for next spring’s bulb show! Tuck bulbs into your perennial border, mingle them amongst your ground cover, naturalize them around trees, or they can stand by themselves in beds and planters. Plant for a succession of blooms; start with the ‘early birds’ which include crocus and snowdrops, follow with an abundance of narcissus and hyacinth, and finish with a flourish of tulips and irises. When planting, fertilize with Dutch Bulb Food or Bone Meal and make planting easier by using bulb planters or bulb augers that fit your drill. For holiday blooms, buy paperwhite and amaryllis bulbs now to force blooms inside during the month of December.

            DON ‘T take your hummingbird feeders down before mid October. The bird’s biological clock tells them when to migrate south. THEY ARE NOT dependent on us removing the feeders at a certain time! Hummingbirds who have started their migration from up north will appreciate finding your feeders along the way.

            With winter coming, remember that gardening is not just confined to outside. Start an herb garden on a sunny windowsill and enjoy freshly snipped herbs or salad greens all winter long. Bring color and texture to any room-with blooming and foliage houseplants and cacti. Bring tropical plants that have spent the summer outside indoors before the night temperatures drop below 45F. Be sure to check carefully for signs of pests or diseases first, and treat as needed.

            In October, you also need to prepare your water gardens for winter. Cut back dying foliage of hardy water plants and sink pots to the bottom of the pond. Cover your pond with a mesh netting to protect it from the buildup of falling leaves. In the winter, install a de-icer or pond heater to keep a hole in the ice for the fish to breathe. This will let the ammonia gases escape the pond. Stop feeding your fish when the water temperature reaches 55F.

            Evaluate your summer plantings of annuals and vegetables while they are still fresh in your mind. What varieties worked well and what did not? Which varieties gave you the best flower display or yield? Remember that spring is just around the corner! So begin planning next spring’s flower and vegetable gardens now.

Enjoy your yard and garden in every season!

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - September 2013

            It’s fall already! Where did the summer go? The kids are already back in school and off to college. The weather has been quite different this year compared to last year’s drought, heat, etc. It was a nice change considering normal summer weather for our area. If you like to garden, I am sure you have heard the phrase “Fall is for Planting,” but do you know why we say this? Fall plantings have a wonderful success rate, especially here in the Midwest. Given the temperate nature of our fall climate with mild temperatures and generally adequate rainfall, the conditions are excellent for establishing new plantings successfully. The result is plants that grow faster and bigger, and they bloom better. The plant’s root systems actually get a second growing season before they have to manage our (normally) hot, dry summers. Plant roots continue to develop long after the leaves drop off in the fall. Roots will continue to grow until freezing of the ground stops them.

            Now is also the time to add color into the fall landscape with the cheerful faces of winter hardy pansies and violas, gorgeous garden mums, and unique varieties of ornamental cabbage and kale. Transform the entrance to your home into a welcoming, colorful fall display with potted mums, cabbage and kale, cornstalks, ornamental grasses, an assortment of pumpkins and squash, and maybe a scarecrow set on a hay bale.

            Don’t forget spring flowering bulbs. Now is the time to get the best selection of varieties and colors and you have until the middle of December to get them planted. Fall bulb planting varieties include Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils and Crocus to name a few. Planting depths vary but average 4-6” deep. It is really exciting to watch these colorful plants bloom after a long winter.

            September is perfect lawn renovation month. Even though this year’s cooler, wetter summer was not as harsh on our lawns, now is the time to consider renovation and aeration. Aeration is one of the most important cultural practices available for your lawn. Aeration helps control thatch, improves the soil structure, helps create growth pockets for new roots, and opens the way for water, air and fertilizer to get to the roots of your lawn. Aeration is the process of removing thousands of small cores of soil 1” to 3” in length from your lawn. These cores “melt” back into the lawn after a few rainfalls, mixing with whatever thatch exists on top of your lawn. The holes in the soil created by aeration make perfect pockets for catching fertilizer and water. Turf roots naturally grow toward these holes and thicken in the process. Aeration holes also relieve pressure from compacted soils, letting more oxygen and water move into the root zone of your lawn. Thatch on your lawn’s soil works like a thatched roof. It sheds water and prevents fertilizers and insect controls from moving freely into the soil. Thatch that has become too thick can require a major lawn renovation. Aeration helps thatch to break down naturally by mixing the soil cores into the thatch and speeding up the decomposition of the thatch.

            Once aeration is accomplished, it is a perfect time to over seed your lawn. Fescue grass seed blends are most common here in the Mid-Missouri area. Fescue blends take our summer heat and drought conditions better than Bluegrass seed mixes, although Bluegrass types will work good in irrigated areas. Fescue lawn mixes tolerate heat, drought and traffic from kids and pets better. Over seed Fescue lawns at a rate of 2-3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft if you have a 50% stand of grass. Over seed Bluegrass lawns at a rate of 1-2 lbs. per 1,000 sq ft if you have a 50% stand of grass. After seeding, top dress with a starter type fertilizer, and you are ready to enjoy a beautiful green lawn for fall and spring!

            The fall of the year is perfect timing for tree planting. You should give some thought to choosing varieties for that special spot. Sun exposure, soil moisture, and the available growth space, needs to be assessed to help with tree selection. The Washington Urban Forestry Council has developed a “Tree List” that can be found on the City of Washington’s website at http://ci.washington.mo.us/. Look under City Departments on the side menu, then Parks & Recreation and click on Urban Forestry Council then the plant list. The list is broken down into different categories that make choosing a tree variety very easy. So, plant a tree this fall. You will help the environment, lower your electric bills, and enhance your property value.

            Here are a few other quick tips for this month. Begin to adapt your houseplants for winter indoors. Check for pests and treat if necessary. Houseplants should be brought indoors at least one month before the heat is normally turned on. Sow fall vegetable crops through mid September. Harvest herbs now to freeze or dry for winter. 

See you in the Garden…
Sandi Hillermann McDonald

Garden Solutions - August 2013

August… besides vacations, other activities that will pull you away from your list of gardening duties are fairs, festivals, family outings, and back to school preparations. It really is a good thing that August is a slow month for working in your landscape.
 

Here are a few health benefits of enjoying the outdoors. To the non-gardener or hard-core athlete, gardening may seem like a sedentary activity, but it is not. Activities like carting mulch around in a wheelbarrow, digging in the soil, plus all that bending and lifting involved in planting really does burn calories. Studies show that depending on the activity, gardening can burn between 250 and 500 calories per hour. For many people gardening is a creative outlet, for others it’s the change of scenery from the daily grind that makes a difference. Still others find that the satisfaction of reaping the rewards (those tasty fruits and vegetables, and beautiful flowers) of your efforts is what helps to reduce stress levels. So try it out and let me know what you think. I would love to hear your gardening stories. You can email me at sandi@hillermann.com.

Your main tasks for this month both begin with the letter W. Weeding and watering. Both tasks are self-explanatory. However, I feel the need to explain them to some extent. It is important to stay on top of the weeds. If you let them get ahead of you and they go to seed, you are going to have hundreds more to deal with this fall and next spring. Spraying weeds with an herbicide such as Roundup is one of the easiest ways to rid of weeds. When using herbicides be sure to read and follow all label directions thoroughly. They are written for your protection. Also, be very careful when spraying around the plants that you want to grow in your landscape. It generally is best to pull weeds that are growing in and immediately around your desirable plants, and spray those that are “in the open”. As far as watering goes, most plants will survive on 1” of water a week. A rain gauge will help measure the amount.

Bugs, they really bug me, and some of them can really mess up your plants. Before you grab that bottle of insecticide, run outside, and spray every bug in sight, it is important that you identify the bug that is bugging you. Most insecticides can’t tell the difference between a beneficial insect like a honey bee and the destructive spider mite. Therefore, it is important that you identify what insect you are trying to kill and the best method to do it. You can collect some samples of your bug to bring to a garden center for Identification, but please, put them in a Ziploc bag and seal it before you do. This way the staff can safely examine and identify the pest without passing the problem on to their own plant stock. Once they identify the bug, the garden center staff can give you advice on the best way to control it.

Mowing the lawn is another task that continues in August. Due to the usually hot and dry conditions that are the norm in August, you may be able to space your mowing times further apart. That is unless you have an irrigation system to keep your lawn growing vigorously.

If you are thinking about a new addition to your landscape this fall, now is the time to talk to your favorite landscape designer. Your designer can discuss your needs with you, design the changes or new additions, and get you on the schedule for a fall installation.

If you tried your hand at seasonal vegetable or square foot gardening this spring, here are a few ways you can enjoy a fall garden. Carry tomatoes, peppers and basil plants over in your fall garden. Direct sow beets, radishes, turnips, leafy greens and spinach now where other spring crops such as broccoli and cauliflower have come and gone for this year.  Replant nursery starts of broccoli and cauliflower. 

Last but not least, take care of yourself. During the hot time that is referred to as August, it is easy to over exert yourself. Drink plenty of fluids and rest in the shade as needed.

See you next month……….in the garden

Sandi Hillermann McDonald

 

 

 

Garden Solutions - July 2013

            Make this the NEW motto for your backyard: “Don’t GO away, GET away!” Wouldn’t it be inviting to have a getaway area in your yard? Make outdoor living, or an extension of your home outdoors, a priority this time of year. Create an outdoor living area with a reading space, a kitchen, a hammock, a family gathering spot, or a water feature for a soothing relaxation place. This action will enhance your property values and give you a great memory making area. As for the garden, there are still things that need to be done this month…

            The most important necessity this time of year, naturally, is water. Provide water in the garden, not only for the perennials, annuals, trees, and shrubs, but also for the wildlife such as birds, rabbits, squirrels, and more. There are several ways to make watering your lawn and flowerbeds easier. One would be a simple drip irrigation system to take care of your plant life. These systems can be installed with tools as simple as a scissors or knife and they are very cost effective. Timers are also available to take the guesswork out of watering for you, and the system will continue to work even when you are on vacation. Another way to make watering easier would be to have an irrigation system professionally installed.

 

            Now, do not forget to provide water for the wildlife as well as plants. Birds continue to give us enjoyment with new fledglings arriving to the feeders and birdbaths in our yard, as well as the adult birds themselves with their daily antics. Water can be supplied in the form of birdbaths, water fountains, or water garden displays. Moving water is a bigger draw for this wildlife activity than still water, and it is safer. With moving water, you do not need to worry about mosquitoes and the West Nile Virus. Any type of water feature will make your “outdoor living room” feel relaxing AND cooler! It is helpful to provide food for the birds now also. Feeding Meal Worms during this time will attract many species of birds, including (but not limited to) robins, wrens, bluebirds, cardinals, etc. This will also help the parents feed their hungry brood and insure a better survival rate.

            Now that I have spent time expressing my concern and importance for water during the summer months, let me give you some other tips for the garden…

·    Apply the chemical “Permethrin” after July 15^th, to guard off grubs, fleas, ticks, etc. in the yard.

·    Keep deadheading spent annual flowers for continued bloom.

·    DON’T pinch hardy garden mums after mid-July OR you may delay blooming for fall.

·    Keep an eye out for powdery mildew and red spider mites this month in the garden. Treat with copper fungicide for mildew or Malathion insecticide respectively.

·    MULCH VOLCANOES KILL!! What this means is that you should NOT build up mulch around your trees with the tip of the volcano up on the tree trunk. In fact, it has to be just the opposite. Put the shallow ring of mulch around the tree trunk and create a saucer effect of mulch around the outside of the tree ring. This will save the tree in several ways. First, it will not kill off the trunk, and second, it will keep mowers and trimmers from disturbing the trunk bark, which can be devastating to the trees success.

·    Bearded irises can be divided at the end of the month. Discard old center sections. Replant so that the tops of the rhizomes are just above the ground level.

·    Remember to deep root water established trees and shrubs, as well, during drought conditions.

·    Prune out and destroy old fruiting canes of raspberries after harvest is complete.

·    Dig potatoes when the tops die and plant fall crops by the 15^th.

·    Sweet corn is ripe when the silks turn brown.

·    For the fall garden, sow seeds of carrots, beets, turnips, winter radish, collards, kale, sweet corn and summer squash as earlier crops are harvested at the end of the month. Also, set out transplants of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower for the fall garden.

            This is also a good time of year to consider water conservation. Here are some water conservation tips for the home and garden:

·    Water plants where it counts. Water at the roots of plants not the leaves. Focus on watering more expensive trees and shrubs.

·    Stop feeding and fertilizing. Plants and grass that have been fertilized grow faster and consume more water.

·    When you mow your grass, cut less frequently and at a higher level. Cutting the lawn short promotes growth, and growth promotes water consumption. Longer grass will shade the ground and stay healthier.

·    Cut back on household water use. Place a plastic jug filled with water inside your toilet tank. The sealed jug displaces water and allows the tank to fill up more quickly. Use a half-gallon milk jug for older toilets, and a one-liter soda bottle for newer, low-flow toilets. Keep the jug in place with a string tied around it, secured in place from the weight of the tank lid.

·    Plant drought tolerant, native plants. Many native plants are drought and disease resistant and make great additions in your gardens. Once established, these plants will need less water than hybridized varieties. Your local independent garden center can help you choose varieties that will work well for the location of your garden.

           

            For additional garden tips for summer, check out our website at www.hillermann.com.

Time to go… See you in the Garden…

Sandi Hillermann McDonald